Yeah! Nub Questions!

[XiKeiyaZI]

So I'll be swapping in a rebuilt AWD tranny today and test driving my new GSX in all gears... and as the car sat for almost two years I'll be parking it directly after to tear the head off and replace the following.

Timing Belt
Piston Rings
Head Gasket
Valve Cover w/ Spark Plug Gaskets
Oil Pan (rounded Drain Plug)
Oil Pan Gasket

Now.... Here's what I need to ask.

Is there anything specific I should keep in mind when timing? I've done it to my NT, but I do NOT want to screw up my Turbo'd 4G.

I have just started parting out a spare Engine, and kept the things that I needed. The Engine in part parts car was rebuilt under 4K ago when they installed the bearings on the crank wrong and messed up the crank. The Pistons and rods look BRAND NEW.. can I use those? Are there any identification numbers on the rods/pistons that will notate if they are stock? And when I mean they were installed wrong, I mean the car ran fine, but the bearins were grooving into the crank. They installed dirty bearings(those half c shaped things)
If I WERE to transplant those into mine... the rings also look perfect... should I replace those? I mean they seriously look brand new.

The other engine had ARP L19's.... should I install those? I mean.. I'm not looking for anywhere near the HP to ever need them...Lol

Now the Engine in the GSX that I want to install this stuff in runs GREAT. I mean.. AWESOME... but the Comp-Test showed 150-135-135-115... with bad oil and such. There is NO smoke, but the oil pressure is a bit low. The car holds boost damned good, infact when I test drove it (in 1st. The Synchros are all gone in the current trans) It slung me back in the seat and barked all four tires from a roll.

Thoughts?

 

[delta448]

and as the car sat for almost two years I'll be parking it directly after to tear the head off and replace the following.

Hope you used fuel stabilizer or drained the gas.

Is there anything specific I should keep in mind when timing? I've done it to my NT, but I do NOT want to screw up my Turbo'd 4G.

Same procedure if it was a 1G N/T.

The Pistons and rods look BRAND NEW.. can I use those?

Sure can. Might want to re-ring them though.

Are there any identification numbers on the rods/pistons that will notate if they are stock?

If they are stock 1G turbo they will have 63DT cast into the top. If they are stock 2G turbo pistons, they will have 63DTF1 cast into them.

If I WERE to transplant those into mine... the rings also look perfect... should I replace those? I mean they seriously look brand new.

Looks can be deceiving. You should replace the rings and be sure to re-hone the cylinders to promote proper ring sealing, even if you just use a handheld drill hone attachment enough to break the glaze.

The other engine had ARP L19's.... should I install those? I mean.. I'm not looking for anywhere near the HP to ever need them...Lol

That's a judgement call. Some people would rather use stock bolts or the regular ARPs and lift the head than bend or snap off a rod, I tend to agree in most cases.

but the Comp-Test showed 150-135-135-115... with bad oil and such. There is NO smoke, but the oil pressure is a bit low.

Oil pressure may be low because the oil is getting gasoline in it, and thus becoming a thinner viscosity, all because of a poor ring seal on 3 of the cylinders.

Boost more than makes up the difference of poor compression, how much power do you think a 7.8:1 4 cylinder engine would make without forced induction? I think you'd get some strong competition from my 3 year old on his bigwheel.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Hope you used fuel stabilizer or drained the gas.
Same procedure if it was a 1G N/T.

Sure can. Might want to re-ring them though.

If they are stock 1G turbo they will have 63DT cast into the top. If they are stock 2G turbo pistons, they will have 63DTF1 cast into them.

Looks can be deceiving. You should replace the rings and be sure to re-hone the cylinders to promote proper ring sealing, even if you just use a handheld drill hone attachment enough to break the glaze.

That's a judgement call. Some people would rather use stock bolts or the regular ARPs and lift the head than bend or snap off a rod, I tend to agree in most cases.

Oil pressure may be low because the oil is getting gasoline in it, and thus becoming a thinner viscosity, all because of a poor ring seal on 3 of the cylinders.

Boost more than makes up the difference of poor compression, how much power do you think a 7.8:1 4 cylinder engine would make without forced induction? I think you'd get some strong competition from my 3 year old on his bigwheel.

I about lost it at that bigwheel part. Hahah.

Well, I went ahead and tore everything down. I posted a thread in the shortblock section, but I suppose I can relay the basic things. Hidden under a pound of carbon, there were little knicks where valves have 'kissed' the pistons. They are not fresh by a long-shot. I had to buff the hell out of the pistons to even find them. I am aware of the 4 factory dimples made into the pistons for the valves, but these were just below the factory ones on the intake side. I checked the head and confirmed that the valves are not bent, they are sealing perfectly, and have no obvious signs of impacting the pistons. I believe this head was rebuilt anyway due to RTV use and a Felpro head-gasket that only looks a few years old. The head looks 'fresh' compaired to the rest of the engine.

I'm also going to replace the piston rings as they were in terrible condition. Are there any specifics that I need to keep in mind while honing? Cross-Hatching? I've never done it. =/ Don't want to mess anything up.

The cylinder walls were damned near perfect. One had a paper-thick ridge at the apex of the piston travel. I had to check a few times to confirm that I was even feeling anything.

Also, I think I'm going to go ahead and use the ARPs. The head bolts didn't look... that great. So.... what is the proper way to install them? Do I just sit the head on the block and run the studs down and tighten? Or do I place them in the block, tighten with a vice grip, sit the head over those, and tighten with the nuts that come with them?

 

[delta448]

Also, I think I'm going to go ahead and use the ARPs. The head bolts didn't look... that great. So.... what is the proper way to install them? Do I just sit the head on the block and run the studs down and tighten? Or do I place them in the block, tighten with a vice grip, sit the head over those, and tighten with the nuts that come with them?

Most stock DSM headbolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused unless you measure bolt stretch to be within spec of original. If it's a 1Ga, there's a chance that the bolts are reusable, but I'd still replace them for peace of mind.

To install the studs, install in the block first only finger tight. Drop the gasket and head onto the studs and tighten the studs in the FSM specified order. I don't have it bookmarked here at work but I'll post up the order diagram later unless someone else can find it first.

Tighten in 3 steps, following the correct order each time until you build up to the ARP specified torque.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Most stock DSM headbolts are torque-to-yield and should not be reused unless you measure bolt stretch to be within spec of original. If it's a 1Ga, there's a chance that the bolts are reusable, but I'd still replace them for peace of mind.

To install the studs, install in the block first only finger tight. Drop the gasket and head onto the studs and tighten the studs in the FSM specified order. I don't have it bookmarked here at work but I'll post up the order diagram later unless someone else can find it first.

Tighten in 3 steps, following the correct order each time until you build up to the ARP specified torque.

o.- Only finger tight? Seems scary. Hahah.

So what chance is there of the threads in the BLOCK to actually give out? seeing as how people pushupwards of 35PSi... I don't think I'll have to worry about this?

 

[delta448]

o.- Only finger tight? Seems scary. Hahah.

So what chance is there of the threads in the BLOCK to actually give out? seeing as how people pushupwards of 35PSi... I don't think I'll have to worry about this?

Finger tight because studs hold from both ends equally.

Block threads are not likely to give out, the block's cast iron.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Hahah. Okay. ;P Just checking.