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Wobble in new rear wheel bearing

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Bryan 93

Proven Member
99
13
Nov 5, 2013
Mentor, Ohio
Just installed new rear wheel bearings in a AWD 1GB . The install went great, torqued the spindle/hub nut to 140 ft-lb's. The drivers side rear wheel rotates great but has a slight, very little, play in all directions (like if I were checking for a bad tie rod up front with car jacked up pulling on one side of the tire and pushing on the other). I used Mitsubishi bearings and a shop press to put everything on using the manual instructions. All the ball joints are new, rear toe eliminator kit, adjustable upper control arm, everything is tight. What do you think? I tried cranking down on the hub/spindle nut over the torque spec and it still wobbles. Did I maybe just get a bad bearing? I'm kind of at a loss, the passenger side is rock solid and I used the same procedure.

some pics
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?res...70&authkey=!AIYF6MziRXQNuHo&ithint=folder,jpg

edit: wobbles is probably not the right term to use, more like play or backlash. It is very small, probably less than a mm at the tire diameter, but you can definitely feel it. Is any play acceptable, am I being over critical? I do that often...
 
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So I swapped rear hubs from side to side. The play goes with the hub. So it isn't anything with my trailing arm or inner bearings. There is a discoloration to the spindle where the inner bearing would sit on the one that has play, not sure if this is anything that is causing it. I measured with calipers the thickness of this part and they both measure nearly identical, 21.97mm, so I don't think this is it. Confused.....
 

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I'm tempted to buy a new assembly, but they are nearly 400 bucks each. I should just bite the bullet and get them, wife's been requesting I spend less money on the car though, she would be less than thrilled...
 
unfortunately I didn't have a chance over the weekend to play with it much. I did crank down on the hub nut after I switched sides and it actually appeared to make the play go away on the hub that had the slight play. Previously I didn't crank down on it because it didn't make a difference on the other side, I tried it this time as a last resort and it seemed to be ok. I might just leave it as is, once I get more time to recheck for any play/wobble I'll make a final decision on where I go next.
 
I replaced mine a year or so ago. I got them from JNZtuning for $152 each for the rear of a 2GB GSX complete hub.
 
Sorry, I was trying. After looking at the link you supplied, I see what you are talking about. That's a crazy way of doing something!
 
Holy jesus $800 for a pair. I have a spare set here if you screw yours up or want to try these. I got less rusty trailing arms from steve miller and they came with the hubs, so I used those and have my originals left over.

After sandblasting and painting mine tho.... might as well be new.
 
Sorry, I was trying. After looking at the link you supplied, I see what you are talking about. That's a crazy way of doing something!
estoy, I just had my car up on the lift, and guess what:
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Brand new everything, bushings, bearings, control arms, brake pads and rotors, remanned calipers, you name it.

Rears have the axles in, and they're solid as a rock, zero play whatsoever.
 
I would take the tire/wheel off and try it again that way it would be easier to see where the wobble is. But, yes, that is crazy if those are all new parts. I would be watching the wheel bearing/hub.
 
take the nut and washer off the axle and see if the axle is sticking out to far which will cause the nut and washer not to bottom out . this could be the wrong bearing or axle .
 
I don't have axles installed in the fronts yet. Would having them installed not make this happen ? I don't see what they'd affect...
 
front axles has nothing to do with the rear . this happened to me at work when they gave me the wrong wheel bearing . if the wheel bearing is a little smaller or you have a different axle you will never get the play out . also like the above post did you press in the wheel bearing properly from the outside edge and not the middle cause that would cause the bearing to come apart.
 
Tmoney20g yes the axles NOT being in will cause that play. The force of the axle and the axle nut being torqued puts pressure on the hub and inner races of the wheel bearing. I will tell you this if you where to in theory pull hard enough on the wheel you could pull the wheel with the hub and the inner race the hub is pressed into right out the bearing.
 
Correct, during my video, the axles are not in. I didn't know they "pulled" together the inner workings of the bearing/hub and tighten it up. Consider my question of "is this normal?" answered.

Thanks all.
 
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