Wiring in the AEM F/IC-8... ECU question

[bpestilence]

Finishing up the car rebuild, and I am wiring in my AEM F/IC-8 piggyback. Well, Haven't gotten far:

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Found a place to mount the piggyback (it is small, which is nice), and ran the wires where I want them to go, preparing to splice into the ECU wiring harness. The car has a history of other splices... A turbo timer at one point, at least one SAFC harness was in there, and the former owner didn't install them proper-like. A lot of splice connectors, not a lot of solder or shrink tubing.

Which brings me to the question. In this closeup, you can see the two O2 sensor signal wires and knock sensor wire coming off the 2nd largest connector. (All white):

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All three go into a larger green wire with what appears to be a ground paired with them. Are these signal grounds for the sensors, or something else aftermarket? If they are original, then was the crappy gray electrical tape that I found also OEM?

I am trying to clean up this mess... And want to see if I can do something about this bird's nest of wires.

 

[bpestilence]

Well, I think I answered my own question. After cleaning up all of the extra harnesses, etc., I found that these larger green wire bundles go straight to the sensor connectors themselves. So it must be OEM.

Whew. I just spent 3.5 hours wiring everything I needed to wire. The F/IC is all wired up, including things I don't think I am going to use, but you never know. I am only planning on going to 20 psig, which is within the limits of the MAF and MAP sensors, but I still hooked up the MAP clamp and the MAF frequency adjustment just in case. Then I hooked up the wideband, the boost solenoid, and the datalogging switch. I even used the switched out (the VTEC signal) to run a custom shift light.

I left the rest of the wires in the harness, too, in case I ever want to sell it. I probably only used about 1/3 of the wires... Because I only use 4 injector drivers (you could use it to both run the normal injectors, and even another set of alternate injectors if you want), and the F/IC is also set up to use Hall or Mag style sensors. It also have FOUR cam signal inputs... In case you want to use it with a Northstar V8?

Now the only thing I have to figure out is how to use the "error" wire from the water/meth controller to cut boost. It is a switched ground, so I think it should be as easy as pulling down the boost solenoid voltage to go back to stock boost, but I have to research that further.

If you are wondering why I paid the extra cash for the F/IC-8 vice the 6, it is because of the built-in boost control (that alone is worth the extra $200), the ability to adjust the kharmann-frequency MAF, and the rediculous amount of datalogging memory.