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Wilwood rotor REPLACEMENT

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sniperelite

15+ Year Contributor
225
3
Jul 20, 2007
Chicago, Illinois
A guy is selling his Wilwood front brake setup locally and is asking $350 but the rotors are bad and need to be replaced. The kit number from Wilwood is 140-8292 and he has the upgraded directionally vaned rotors but said the stock replacements will be around $80.00 a side.

Does anyone know where I would be able to get the replacement rotors (aside from Wilwood obviously) at a decent price?

Also, what do you guys think about the deal? He says the calipers are in good shape but faded and is also throwing in a set of new Hawk HP+ pads. The brakes do include the stainless lines as well. Thanks guys.:thumb:
 
A guy is selling his Wilwood front brake setup locally and is asking $350 but the rotors are bad and need to be replaced. The kit number from Wilwood is 140-8292 and he has the upgraded directionally vaned rotors but said the stock replacements will be around $80.00 a side.

The seller is exactly correct. Example: Wilwood Disc Brakes 160-5843 - Wilwood Ultralite HP 32 Vane Rotors - Overview - SummitRacing.com

(That's a kick-butt deal, by the way. Is the seller desperate or could there be something up with the calipers?)
 
Nope, not desperate, I have just taken a few other parts off his hands so he is helping me out with the price. Plus the brakes are coming off the 95 GSX shop car he is parting out so he is slashing prices to make the stuff move quick. Lucky me huh? :thumbsup:

Thanks for the link and quick response as well. I am wondering if I am just going to be using the car for cruising around town and some highway fun, would it be worth it to look into getting slotted rotors instead of the stock replacements? Or is my usage not worth the extra money?
 
Those brakes are not only overkill for what you're doing, but they're actually hurting, because they have so much rotating mass. Get any rotor.

Do you have upgraded rears? If not, how the bias?
 
Hmm, I figured they would be less rotating mass seeing as there looked like less surface area vs the OEM rotors but I may be wrong. I am rebuilding the stock single piston rear calipers on some brand new Power Slot slotted rotors and will probably run the same Hawk HP pads.
 
Maybe they aren't that much heavier than OE, but they are larger in diameter, which is the problem. (I was lazy in my typing last night.) Technically, they have a higher rotational moment, so they are harder to speed up and slow down. But they will stop the car.

Personally, I would never put big brakes on a car that doesn't need them. In fact, I'm spending a lot of my spare time trying to figure out how to shrink the brakes on my Evo (albeit mostly to get 15" wheels on the car).

But I'm being anal (as usual). They'll be fine for tooling around.
 
Maybe they aren't that much heavier than OE, but they are larger in diameter, which is the problem. (I was lazy in my typing last night.) Technically, they have a higher rotational moment, so they are harder to speed up and slow down. But they will stop the car.


Actually I believe they were lighter then the stock fwd brakes when I weighed them years & years ago (don't recall the specifics now), so should defently be lighter then the stock awd brakes.

As far as the larger diameter having an impact in "the real world" (as far as being a street car) I really didn't notice anything from going from fwd brakes to them (other then being able to stop much quicker & not having brake fade). These aren't massive rotors, at 12.2" & are only .81 thick so I don't think its as big of an issue as some of the other big brake kits out there. My car is mostly a daily driver & I would defently recommed the Wilwood factory kit for this use.

I'll second Todd at TCE if your looking for upgraded rotors again, he can hook you up with the proper rotors for this kit if your wanting rotors that are directionally vented internally again.
 
Thanks for all the good info guys I appreciate the input.

I think I am going to jump on the deal seeing as my current stock rotors need to be replaced anyway. Also, both of my front calipers need a rebuild kit because the seals are bad and the ones I ordered off EBAY do not fit properly for some reason.

My other concern is that I haven't had brake fluid in the car in over 2 years now and I am wondering if the master cylinder or anything like that might need replacement. I left the rear calipers on the whole time and when I took them off last week there was still fluid in the calipers themselves and some remaining fluid in the rear lines, but nothing else besides that.

Is there something I can do in the meantime without the brakes on to check the lines or master/slave cylinders to make sure everything is OK and good to go when I get the new brakes on?
 
I have a set of them on the shelf. Zinc plated even. $74ea. (UL-32 HP)

Great rotors for mild street performance or AX use. Too light for open track day use. A simple and reliable all-around part is all.

Can ship 2per on a med FRB for $15(US)
Bolt kit "suggested" but not required. (13.50 per)
 
I have the Baer Track kit and It makes the car I couldn't imagine having stock brakes again. I got the aem rear kit too so the bias isn't bad but definatly more toward the front and without abs if you lock it up the rear will slide sideways:rocks:
 
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