1G brake and rotor replacement question

[enriquez2000]

are there any tricks or problems that I should be aware of when changing my brakes and rotors this next weekend. My Honda had all kinds of funky issues when I did it

 

[Gsx_Mitch]

I've done this job a few times never really ran into any issues. I usually just use a piece of wire or a zip tie to hold the caliper while changing the rotor out.bthat's about it though. Makes things a little easier. Nothing too complicated about it. Oh and if the hardware on the bracket isn't terrible I'd reuse those. They can be a pain.

 

[enriquez2000]

I've done this job a few times never really ran into any issues. I usually just use a piece of wire or a zip tie to hold the caliper while changing the rotor out.bthat's about it though. Makes things a little easier. Nothing too complicated about it. Oh and if the hardware on the bracket isn't terrible I'd reuse those. They can be a pain.

I have a trusty coat hanger... just wan5ed to make sure there is nothing unexpected. The 95 accord front rotors are under the hub and its a pita

 

[Gsx_Mitch]

Never thought to do that very clever haha. And nah no bs like that.

I have a trusty coat hanger... just wan5ed to make sure there is nothing unexpected. The 95 accord front rotors are under the hub and its a pita

 

[tmoney20g]

too add to this, i have reman'd calipers, so let's call them new, as well as new rotors, new pads, and the pads come with hardware. the hardware is the little clips that first attach to the pad cradle. I must have gotten a bad run of either pads, clips, or both, because the pads have these little "ears" that slide into the clips.

I had to sand down these ears so the pads could move in/out. IE so they could be pushed into the rotor to stop during normal braking, and retract away from the rotor once you let off. the ears on mine were just a little too big, so once pushed down onto the rotor, they just stayed there. So before you finish up, but after you bleed the caliper, make sure that wheel spins freely before you move on to the next one.

So in short, the pads should kinda easily slide into the clips, but be snug once they're in. They shouldn't have to be jammed or hammered in there or you'll have to sand down the ears a little like i did.


Oh, and don't forget to grease the large bolts that go thru the rubber boots with some brake grease.

And to retract the rear calipers you use needle-nose pliers and spin the wheel (piston, if you will) ccw to retract it. Fronts are a normal piston and can be pushed in.

 

[enriquez2000]

too add to this, i have reman'd calipers, so let's call them new, as well as new rotors, new pads, and the pads come with hardware. the hardware is the little clips that first attach to the pad cradle. I must have gotten a bad run of either pads, clips, or both, because the pads have these little "ears" that slide into the clips.

I had to sand down these ears so the pads could move in/out. IE so they could be pushed into the rotor to stop during normal braking, and retract away from the rotor once you let off. the ears on mine were just a little too big, so once pushed down onto the rotor, they just stayed there. So before you finish up, but after you bleed the caliper, make sure that wheel spins freely before you move on to the next one.

So in short, the pads should kinda easily slide into the clips, but be snug once they're in. They shouldn't have to be jammed or hammered in there or you'll have to sand down the ears a little like i did.

I just went through this with the race brakes on my Honda. they were seizing up on me after driving because the pads were too tight in the caliper bracket. I had to file off all four corners so the pads went in and out smoothly. there should always be the tiniest little bit of slop in the pad and calipers

 

[luv2rallye]

Don't buy rotors made in China! They use poor quality steel that warps with heat (USA or Canada is good however).

Remove some fluid in MC to account for it rising when pistons are pushed back in or it will go all over the place. Remember to top it off when done.

Keep track of caliper pins which goes where - they are different.

If you want, you can sand pads (their contact surface with rotor) with 100 grit sandpaper (pressing pads onto paper on flat surface). It helps eliminate squeaking sometimes with new pads (also works good with used pads).

 

[enriquez2000]

Don't buy rotors made in China! They use poor quality steel that warps with heat (USA or Canada is good however).

Ive had good luck with powerstop kits

 

[Tom Gibbons]

When you're doing the back ones, you may as well adjust the e-brake. There's an access port on the rotor and you can stick a screw driver in there to tighten or loosen the drum by turning the adjustment wheel.

 

[enriquez2000]

When you're doing the back ones, you may as well adjust the e-brake. There's an access port on the rotor and you can stick a screw driver in there to tighten or loosen the drum by turning the adjustment wheel.

good idea... could always use a tighter Ebrake for brake boosting