ECMlink Will not idle on it's own

[LiquidX]

The car has been down for about 3 months after getting an electrical problem fixed. The tune has not been touched from when it last ran. I fixed some major boost leaks post MAP sensor which were causing horrendous idle surge. Leaks are now fixed except a slightly leaking intake valve on #4 cylinder.

I fixed a leaking v-band on my o2 housing which may have caused some issues with my wideband.

I cannot get the car to idle on its own. It'll start up and then die a moment later. The wideband and AFREst are drastically different when I'm on the throttle.

All that has been done is the leak fixes and the timing belt which has been verified multiple times by hand prior to start up and was also verified with a degree wheel.

 

[LiquidX]

I did verify the timing belt again as I just re did it. Good thing I did since the one pulley was adjusted wrong. I also noticed my CAS was 180 out. I'm thinking that my wires were backwards and putting the CAS 180 out at that time allowed it to at least 'start up'. I'll have to get the laptop hooked up tomorrow to see what's going to happen now.

 

[LiquidX]

I managed to get it to run for about 20 seconds messing with the global dead time. I did re calibrate my wideband as well since it sat for 2 months without a battery installed and since Brian asked.

I've been away from this for too long, so I'm unsure if I just need to keep working my idle or what. It still just dies out on it's own and it reads a super rich AFREst before dying.

Could a bad PTU or coil pack or some other hard part cause these kinds of issues? I did have that reverse power issue before this happened.

 

[LiquidX]

Does anyone have input on this?

 

[dsmpat95]

Can you keep it running to operating temp. I looked at the log many times, I don't see anything to point to your issue.

 

[LiquidX]

It shouldn't die like that. The things that caught my eye are the AFREst spiking to 50:1 and 2480:1 and right before it dies it reads a very rich 4:1 or lower.

 

[dsmpat95]

Those spikes are in the first 15 sec of the log, before your 02 starts up.

 

[livedsm4g63]

I had the same problem when I was running an aem map sensor for my speed density set up. Dave told me that the voltage was different between the aem and the omni power. After I switched to the omni power everything was fine. There was a way I got it to run on the aem but I totally forget how I did it. Ill try and remember during my workout today. haha

 

[LiquidX]

I have those spikes in other logs on the laptop as well a min in.

It's doing some crazy idle surge like it did before. The tb back is leak free minus a slightly leaking from a #4 intake valve.

Both IACs I have here pass the in/out test and resistance test too.

 

[LiquidX]

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[livedsm4g63]

Those would be the same kind of spikes that mine showed however it was only when I was cruising. How amped are you to try a omni power 4 bar? Thats what I would try.

Here is the conversation from ecmlink forums.
Me:
"any idea why during cruise my Afratioest would spike causing a lean mixture?"

Dave:
The 0.5 to 0.45v range of the AEM 3.5-bar sensor results in a large enough step size in the pressure reading that at light throttle the ECU sees a large enough change in airflow at each step that the ECU makes some fuel adjustments based on the perceived rate of airflow change. You might get some benefit by enabling a small amount of airflow smoothing (Misc tab checkbox and DA AirflowSmoothing tab; try smoothing values between 25% and 50%). Too much smoothing will compromise throttle response.

He then went on to tell me there is a reason they don't sell aem sensors. Here is the link if you have a log in.

http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?t=56915&page=2

 

[LiquidX]

I used a 4bar prior to the reverse power incident. I'm not getting rid of this $200 setup I got as it's my boost gauge as well as my SD sensor which is tapped to the manifold.

 

[livedsm4g63]

Yeah I was in the same boat so I just ended up selling my gauge in all too. Your call though. How long is your hose to the manifold?

Another thing, the last log you have the ecu grounded. Why? Look under the MISC tab.

 

[LiquidX]

Hose to manifold? My sensor is installed directly onto the manifold aka tapped (tap and die).

ECU is grounded because I don't have my 1g CAS set and I need to adjust the BISS. However I cannot do either until I'm able to idle properly and reach operating temperature.

 

[livedsm4g63]

Ah I see I see, my advice would be to contact Dave on the ecmlink forums and see what he says. He will lead you in the right direction however it may be in relation to an omni-bar. There maybe some ways around it, voltage wise, to set some values differently. He might suggest your lower values in your sd table to raise up to around 50-55 at different cells. Let us know what happens.

 

[LiquidX]

Any other advice??

 

[livedsm4g63]

Were you able to contact them on the ecmlink forums?

 

[LiquidX]

With not much help at all.

 

[livedsm4g63]

Any update?

Try using a different MAP sensor setting in ecmlink itself(Thus changing the voltages it uses). I know thats how I was able to get mine to run for a bit.

 

[LiquidX]

I can see if that works.

 

[LiquidX]

No difference.

 

[95talongirl]

Wow, that's weird. I'll be thinking about this all day at work now. ! Did you make sure that all the wiring for the sensor and to the ecu are ok and not somehow broken and thus getting some bad readings? Also, I know you're one of the more experienced people on here, but did you make sure that everything is setup correctly in link for your setup? I.E. engine displacement, the "throttle tip-in" and such? (didn't get a chance to open your logs, as I'm not at home...)

sdsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]

Sometimes its worth going back to the basics...

 

[LiquidX]

Yes that's all checked out. I had Brian (snowborder714) over last night looking over everything with his brother (turbosax2) on the phone too. Both are stumped currently and next step is trying a stock narrow band sensor in place of the wideband in NBS and I'm also trying to get a known-good v3 chip to try also.

This is just messed up all together.

Also, I've been running link and speed density for a while before all of this. I had a reverse power issue around December and it's been crappy ever since. You name the sensor, it's been most likely tested or tried with a known-good sensor.

 

[95talongirl]

Ok, cool. Yea, I gotta say that is really weird.... best of luck to you.

 

[LiquidX]

Brian managed to get it running OK but we reverted back to my old stock MAF. Unsure if the new AEM MAP sensor is putting out a bad reading to the ECU.