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Will I need a twin disk clutch

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Yamahaulin

10+ Year Contributor
695
12
Jan 30, 2010
Bowling Green, Kentucky
Ok clutch experts. I've almost got my new setup rdy to go. I upgraded turbos to a billet pte 5857 bb turbo. I expect to make between 500-600 awhp. What type clutch should i get to hold this power and be able to still drive it on the street? Holding ability is high on my list as well as long lasting, i can deal with a bit of chatter and harsh engagement. I also don't want to spend and arm and leg for it, so give me some good recommendations.
 
I've looked at a Quarter Master. Didn't know if anyone uses them. That's about the top of my budget for a clutch. Is the V Drive the newer smoother model?
 
I's just go ACT2900 and a 6 puck plate i'm making 503 on the spray and just friday night i did a 2nd through 4th full pull with no slippage (if you're AWD though and got the cash they are nice)... twin disk is HIGH priced and one drive with the clutch not setup right and WHAM-O you're dishing out a few grand more to rebuild it...my friend ruined his in less than 15 minutes having adjusted the clutch peddal wrong and getting pump because he was told to adjust tehclutch all the way up for the most travel and didn't know about 2g pedal pump
 
The Qm twindisc is by far the best clutch I have ever owned! Its not that bad for on the street. The way you can shift at any rpms is priceless! I have countless 9000+ rpm shifts with no issues, and the clutch is a little over a year old, and never had a slipping issue! I would say my power is somewhere around your HP goal.
 
The Qm twindisc is by far the best clutch I have ever owned! Its not that bad for on the street. The way you can shift at any rpms is priceless! I have countless 9000+ rpm shifts with no issues, and the clutch is a little over a year old, and never had a slipping issue! I would say my power is somewhere around your HP goal.

Do you have the V Drive or the regular?
 
ive got the reg one and ive have nothing but good things to say about. i got it from a freind it came out of a 900whp car and i used it for another year and half untill i had to change the disks. its nice and when i had to change the disks i wouldnt even consider anoter act setup i could of got for the same price of just the disks.
 
QM Twin Disc here older design...drive it daily in heavy traffic.

During relaxed and spirited driving on the street it is bad ass.

In heavy traffic it is a bit of a challenge but becomes second nature quickly.

You also have to get used to the fact that the hotter it gets the harder it grabs.
 
Well you guys are helping me out a bunch. Looks like the QM is the route to take. Does anyone know what's the difference in the new V Drive? Is i more friendly, less friendly? Does anyone know where i can pick one up at a good price? The best price i've found is $1025. I tried sending a pm to a guy selling a used one here on the forum and he hasn't gotten back with me.
 
First off have you ever driven a QM don't be so sure until you have. I don't mean to switch tones but I want to be fair as I do own one and I really should articulate the challenges it presents at first.

When I first got in the car after the install it was so frustrating to learn to drive all over...there are many things you simply cannot do in a twin disc that you grow accustomed to in a normal manual.

If you don't plan to put it on the track I would consider a 2600 as the QM is a serious clutch for a purpose built car.

You wont like the vibrations it makes on the drive train either. Also engagement is harsh so make sure you have proper mounts in both the front and rear.

So just be sure. In my case the car is purpose built and it's not a DD, although I did DD it for some time it is very taxing as you are always white knuckled.

Do you know anyone with a QM twin disc you can go for a ride in?
 
Twin disc is a drag racing clutch, if your going to be doing LOTS of drag racing a twin disc is the best for awd, less shock, and quick disengagement for fast shifting.

Lots of vibration which is hard on bearings, I recommend upgrading to a fluidamper as well.

I really like my QM twin.
 
x2 on fluidamper. The twin disc grabs so hard (drive line shock) my rear end ripped out of the sub frame. I now have solid alum bushings and plenty of vibration as a result but the car stays true when getting down.

Definitely feels and sounds like a race car...not a tame social daily driver.
 
Unfortunately I don't have anyone i know with a QM, for that matter I'm the only AWD Dsm anywhere near. Now I had a McLeod Dual Disk clutch in my 95 Z28 drag car and it was just as you described, harsh takeoff and some driveline chatter and the pedal became much stiffer. I couldn't leave from a stop light without chirping tires, it was like a light switch, engaged or disengaged. I drove that car on the street, but not everyday. I feel as long as the QM is no worse than that I will be fine. I'm not gonna be making a bunch of drag passes but I want a clutch to hold 600awhp reliably for quite some time. You can't have stock smooth and ability to hold 600awhp I know that.
 
ACT 2900 with a 6 puck would be all that you need for your power goal! A twindisc is more for the quick disengagement, at high rpm shifting! The question is, are you going to be revving to 9000+rpms with your goal, or you going to be shifting out at 8000rpms?
 
I will be shifting at 8000. I have a slowboy racing clutch with fidanza alum flywheel in the car now and it won't shift above 7k, but i believe that is due to the trans not the clutch. I am working on getting a jacks trans. I just want to make sure i'm installing a clutch that will last as i don't want to have to do this again anytime soon.
 
Before I got the twindisc, I had a ACT 2600 with a streetdisc, and shep stage3 trans. I revved to 8000 all the time, and made countless mid 11 sec passes! I started having issues with shifting, when I started revving over 8000rpms.
I would say the act 2900 with 6 puck disc, and a good rebuilt trans, you shouldn't have any issues with shifting at 8000rpms and hold the power your wanting!
 
sprung or unsprung disk?

I would do an unsprung disc. The unsprung is a little lighter then the sprung disc, and the lighter the clutch and flywheel, the better it will shift at higher rpms!
 
i'm going with a 2900 act pressure plate with a 6 puck sprung clutch. cars just gonna be a weekend warrior, with a sprung clutch (for lighter engagement) and some slippage (so i don't break anything yet). aiming for about 500hp to the wheels. maybe later when i get more serious on drag racing, then i'll upgrade. but that'll be a while LOL. I wish money grew on trees.. <sigh>

but if you're going all out and might as well not worry about any drivetrain problems a qm twin would be perfect. but then again might as well upgrade the WHOLE drivetrain if your getting the qm twin set up.

shep trans 2000
tcase 1000
front axles 800
1 piece driveshaft 800
rear diff 1000
rear axles 800
qm twin clutch set up 800-1200

(approximate figures LOL)
 
i'm going with a 2900 act pressure plate with a 6 puck sprung clutch. cars just gonna be a weekend warrior, with a sprung clutch (for lighter engagement) and some slippage (so i don't break anything yet). aiming for about 500hp to the wheels. maybe later when i get more serious on drag racing, then i'll upgrade. but that'll be a while LOL. I wish money grew on trees.. <sigh>

but if you're going all out and might as well not worry about any drivetrain problems a qm twin would be perfect. but then again might as well upgrade the WHOLE drivetrain if your getting the qm twin set up.

shep trans 2000
tcase 1000
front axles 800
1 piece driveshaft 800
rear diff 1000
rear axles 800
qm twin clutch set up 800-1200

(approximate figures LOL)

Trans and t-case I will have upon installation of clutch. Front axles from driveshaft shop good for 650hp. A 1 piece driveshaft i can't find. DSS offers a 2 piece, they say you can't run a one piece because they say the front angle is 2 degrees and the back is 7 degrees so they replace the first 2 with 1 that they claim will hold 650hp. Will have rear axles from DSS to hold 650 as well. Your prices are close fronts are 700 rears are 675, driveshaft is 675. As for the rear diff I wasn't planning on doing anything with it until it broke. What are you guys doing with the rear diff to beef it up?
 
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