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Will 4g64 internals work in a 4g63?

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99 gst 420a dsm

20+ Year Contributor
509
2
Jan 22, 2003
Turboville, New York
I only ask because im looking to rebuild the engine in the 93 GS i just got and there is a 4g64 galant at the salvage yard with the head already off it, i just wanted to know if i could use the crank, rods, and pistons in my 4g63 block and be better off that just doing an oem rebuild.
 
rods and crank will bolt in but pistons wont

the crank has same journals and all but higher stroke. youll have to clearence the block. they use that crank for 2.3L stroker setups

the rods are the same on both motors but the pistons are whats different. the wrist pin location on both pistons makes up the difference in deck height. the 64 pistons wont fit in the 63 block when bolted up without custom rods
 
na90dsm said:
rods and crank will bolt in but pistons wont

the crank has same journals and all but higher stroke. youll have to clearence the block. they use that crank for 2.3L stroker setups

the rods are the same on both motors but the pistons are whats different. the wrist pin location on both pistons makes up the difference in deck height. the 64 pistons wont fit in the 63 block when bolted up without custom rods


i knew about the 2.3 stroker kits for turbo engines, So i could just use the 4g64 crank with stock n/t pistons and turbo rods and have a pretty nice nonturbo 4g63... is there anythink else involed? Whats do you mean by "clearence the block"?
 
you havw to releive the main caps on the 63 block to make room for the rodsa witht the increased stroker from the crank. the rod will tap the main cap little bit if you dotn and stuff will break insanely.

if you were to go with a set of big rods and stock n/a pistons on a 64 crnak youd have a 2.3L n/a motor with 9:0:1 compression. everythign will bolt right in but youll have to get aftermarket replacement pistons with liek a .20 overbore.

the block will have to be bored otu so cylinders are clean and id deck it also to make sure everythign is straight. then the main caps will have to be releioved to accomidate the increased stroke. i can dig up some specs if you wish on the whole setup.


go into the search and look for a thread in the extreme tuner forum called stroker. polk posted a pic a while back of what has to be clearenced and what it looks like :thumb:
 
na90dsm said:
you havw to releive the main caps on the 63 block to make room for the rodsa witht the increased stroker from the crank. the rod will tap the main cap little bit if you dotn and stuff will break insanely.

if you were to go with a set of big rods and stock n/a pistons on a 64 crnak youd have a 2.3L n/a motor with 9:0:1 compression. everythign will bolt right in but youll have to get aftermarket replacement pistons with liek a .20 overbore.

the block will have to be bored otu so cylinders are clean and id deck it also to make sure everythign is straight. then the main caps will have to be releioved to accomidate the increased stroke. i can dig up some specs if you wish on the whole setup.


go into the search and look for a thread in the extreme tuner forum called stroker. polk posted a pic a while back of what has to be clearenced and what it looks like :thumb:


I didnt understand much of what you just typed.....
 
ill snap a few pics for ya. i dont have a clearenced block but i have a block here that i can point it out for ya.

the bottom of the cylinder has to be shaved down a hair or else the rod will hit it. also there is another spot that has to be trimmed to this does not happen.


ill put these internals in this block and lin it up to show you. :thumb:
 
ok heres what im talkin about. the bottom of the cylinder wall is to close when the longer stroke crank is installed. the stroker is the amount of up and down movement the crank gives the rod and pistons during the stroke. if you didnt knwo if you did no offense.

look at how close the bottom of the cylinder is to the crank, then try to fit a rod in there. it hits and the crank wont spin anymore. you have to clearence that otu to make room for the crankshaft. otherwise youll get it all bolted together and boom snap all 4 rods in one turn of the crank.

this pic is a 4g64 6-bolt crank just layed in a 4g63 n/a block. lays in perfect, but crank is to close to the cylinder



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the crank needs to be cleaed also. its just been chillin on a shelf. its a buddy of mines
 

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so in other words i just have to take a dremel tool and keep erroding the block until the crank spins freely?
 
Why not just use the 4G64 block and bolt on the 4G63 head. Sounds like alot easier to me and alot more powerful.
 
the block dosent bolt up the same i dont think, i think i have everything settled. The 2.3 Stroker kit will be fine for a light modded all-motor reliable daily driver.
 
no the crank spins freely but the rtod hits the block. rod hits block boom, rod snaps. thats the problem. there isnt enough clearence with the longer stroke crank to fit the pistons rods in so you have to clearence the block to make room.

take that pic i posted, then try to get a piston rod in that space without it hitting anything. thats what im talkin abotu


and to use a 2.4 block will work but 2 holes have to be welded shut on the block deck to mate the head to the block, you also need all the 4g63 timing stuff and the water pump ect from a 4g63. the 4g63/63 hybrid setup has better rod angles then the 63 stroker setup and will last longer, no to mention its 2.4L dohc motor when your done.
 
oh so your saying i should can the 2.3stroker idea with the turbo rods, and just use a modded 2.4L block with my dohc turbo head?
 
if you can get the block and crank do it. it uses all 2.4 bottom end parts wqhich ar enow avalible liek anywhere and you can make a tq monster. itll last longer then the 2.3L setup and you wont have to clearence the block.

if you get a 2.4L block all you have to do it line bore it,hot tank it,deck it, hone it all out nice and your done. this is vs all the bs to fit the crank in a 4g63 block.


IMO the 64 block is a better choice, but the 2.3L setup is also good just wont last as long if you do the numbers :thumb:
 
id like to end up with a strong running and reliable engine for daily driving, a stock 4g63 isnt going to do it, and i dont want to turbo
 
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