Who still has a 7 bolt?

[Gooberlog]

Originally posted by Tom Sawyer
People saying stuff like "just had my crank endplay checked at ~0 and then I added an ACT 2600" and "I was showing copper but phew it was covered under warranty, so I added an ACT 2600 when they did the work"....wow. If you're aware of crankwalk and believe that it has something to do with the mods/oil/owner, and have no intention of getting a 6-bolt...then get the Centerforce clutch that doesn't put extreme pressure on the crank! If that's not enough grabbing power for you (which unless you're over 400whp it is), then you should already have swapped a built 6-bolt so you can run the ACT clutch and handle that kind of power. This and hearing people using $.79/quart 10w30 on their 2g turbo car (or any car for that matter) amazes the sh!t out of me. Seems like common sense to me to handle this delicate motor that is at the same time unbelievably strong, with some care. BTW my all stock 7-bolt is at 76k and not a damn thing has broken on my car of any kind in 2+ years of modded ownership.

Tom

I think a well MAINTAINED and well TUNED car will last a while w/o breaking or blowing up.

 

[DSMRevolution]

I have 100k on my 7-bolt engine and no signs of CW That is even with a ACT2100! Every car can get crankwalk, just the 2gs are more common.

 

[1GTalons]

121k and Still rolling Strong. well except for.... nm

 

[ArticNemesis]

I've still got my 7-bolt.. 76k on the clock....
.... ... .. It just doesn't run at the moment.

 

[Gooberlog]

Over 143,000 miles on the clock, never been rebuilt to my knowlege. Runs 13.5 with basic mods.

 

[PowerEclipses]

Am I right that the 99s are some of the "Better" engines? They don't get crankwalk nearly as easy at the 95-98?

 

[1fast97gsx]

I've never heard of that...

 

[AW4G63]

http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80079

I have beaten 141,000 miles into my car.

CW is such a small %, If your motor has made it this far there is no reason to jump into a 6 bolt.

 

[AW4G63]

Originally posted by PowerEclipses
Am I right that the 99s are some of the "Better" engines? They don't get crankwalk nearly as easy at the 95-98?

You Sir are clueless. They are no difference.

Some one did do stats at one time and it seemed that 97s are more prone how ever it wasnt really proof. Its nothing Id swear by or quote.

 

[SOURCE1064]

Actually GSXTCY had crankwalked his 98 and the Mitsu dealer that installed the new engine for him under warranty said the they reworked the crank so that it is less likely to suffer from crankwalk with the 99 7 bolt they dropped in. I have rebuilt my 7 bolt and decided to get a dowel kit in order to stiffen my crank and prevent it from moving. I got the racing application. If anyone is interested it this kit you can check out www.crco.com Mike from RRE suggested it to me since I wasn't building a 6 bolt for my car

 

[WhipmastaFlex]

89K on my 7bolt

 

[Wobble]

i was told 95-96 did it the most, and that 97-99 were less... but who knows.. i think crankwalk is at least 90% the owners fault.. so take care of yer damn car!

 

[2gtalonklos]

75000 running good, went through one auto transmission, having auto really lowers my chance of cw

 

[Way2real316]

81,000 Miles and still doing the damn thing hahha. Im about to spary next month hahah. You only live once so who cares it breaks fix it hahahahhah

 

[Talonryda17]

I still have mine, just turned over 100k, just cranked the boost to 16-17psi (finally) and shes holding up great *knocks on wood*

 

[EclipseRolllin]

I still have mine just turned 40k miles with slightly modded not a lot yet though. Just 3" Downpipe greedy hardpipe kit intake greddy bov and thats it getting my cat back soon

 

[jpolizo]

Originally posted by AW4G63


You Sir are clueless. They are no difference.

Some one did do stats at one time and it seemed that 97s are more prone how ever it wasnt really proof. Its nothing Id swear by or quote.

Well just to add to the confusion ...

What I've read is that the change to the later model engines (which I thought included '98) was that the thrust bearing was redesigned. There's a theory that this makes crankwalk less likely. Others argue that crankwalk is less reported in these cars simply because they are newer and have fewer miles on them.

 

[marksae]

Originally posted by jpolizo

What I've read is that the change to the later model engines (which I thought included '98) was that the thrust bearing was redesigned. There's a theory that this makes crankwalk less likely. Others argue that crankwalk is less reported in these cars simply because they are newer and have fewer miles on them.

My '98 just hit 101k miles and has not CW symptoms whatsoever. I measured the crank endplay at 95k and it was at 0.005". Spec is 0.009", so my crank definitely isn't walking, and hopefully isn't going to walk on me. I did put in a 2600 at 95k though, so I'm going to monitor crank endplay closely from now on just to see if the 2600 accelerates thrust bearing wear..

My theory is that stepping on the clutch pedal to start the car is probably what causes the most wear on the thrust bearing. I've disabled my clutch switch since 70k.

 

[Generation X]

I took my car to the dealership awhile back for the ball joint recall and I told them to check my crank end play. I was amazed at what the technician told me. He tried to tell me that I had about an 1/8 of an inch of end play. I went on to tell him that I thought stock tolerance was .002" - .007" with .009" given as max value, so an 1/8 of an inch is .125" which would mean that my crank should be laying outside my block, he then changed his tone of voice and went on to tell me that the only way to get a true and more accurate reading is to drop the oil pan and check the thrust bearing. I just shook my head and walked off. FWIW the crank pulley will flex some anyway, if you pry hard enough on it.

 

[marksae]

This is how I measure the crank endplay on my car:

1) Use the frame of the car and pry on crank pulley to push it all the way to the passenger side
2) Put a dial indicator into the CENTER of the crank pulley (try to keep it as straight as possible)
3) Have someone step on the clutch pedal while you watch the dial indicator
4) Repeat 1-3 until you get a consistent reading

 

[Generation X]

Originally posted by marksae
This is how I measure the crank endplay on my car:

1) Use the frame of the car and pry on crank pulley to push it all the way to the passenger side
2) Put a dial indicator into the CENTER of the crank pulley (try to keep it as straight as possible)
3) Have someone step on the clutch pedal while you watch the dial indicator
4) Repeat 1-3 until you get a consistent reading

Sounds like a GREAT method. I would bet my weeks paycheck, which isn't very much, that the technician that checked mine didn't take the time to check it that way, and not charge me for it, especially since I was just in for a ball joint recall.

 

[Amar1995]

My GSX had 159,677 when I pulled the engine for a re-build. I trully do think that if they have CW then then you'll know by 100,000 if they don't then they never will. Mark my words.....My engine had an ACT 2,600 installed at 101,115 and a big 16G, 3 inch exhaust, MBC, whalbaro 255, K&N intake, and the rest of the usual mods. I was running 18 psi of boost all day long on shitty west coast 92 octane. I was religious on oil changes, and I drove the car like I stole it. Now I rebuilt it with eagle rods and wiesco pistons 1G head and a full Garrett set up with a 60-1 hairdryer and am prepairing to whip out another 150,000 miles on it. God I love our cars.:laugh: