Who is Dr Turbo?

[Nick2gGST]

poor towels! I've seen like 12 different towels in every picture that your destroying with car parts! my fiance would kill me if I destroyed that many towels.

 

[Highbooost]

Thanks Joe for the 2900 for $20, got it resurfaced for $50, like new. I use a 2g disc if you are interested.

 

[Trav83]

Thanks Joe for the 2900 for $20, got it resurfaced for $50, like new. I use a 2g disc if you are interested.

I bet some people are gonna tear ya apart for putting a 'used' part on your super clean build, but I say As long as works great that's all that matters, it's not like anyone is gonna be seeing it anyway

 

[Nick2gGST]

WHY THE EFF DID YOU PUT A USED CLUTCH IN YOUR CAR!!! just kidding. I'm sure it was barely used, you know better.

 

[SFRacingGST]

Nice Build... The only things I don't like is how the new gas tank hang down low in the rear, the glitter coolant bottle and that you are using an AFC... Other than that, the clutch can always be replace if it fails.

 

[RipperXX]

I didn't notice he was using an AFC, why not go LINK or something?

 

[Auto RS T]

VPC, AFC, and a datalogger, what's wrong with that combo? Albeit a little old school, so is the builder. I'm willing to bet link is on the way in the future.

 

[Highbooost]

New stage 3 Shep trans with a 4 spider diff. I did shim the fork ball with the thinnest washer I could find, I used an aluminum o-ring actually. I think this helps tremendously with disengagement. It has to be real thin though, to thick and the TO bearing squeals.

 

[Highbooost]

Ok, I love constructive critisim so I will address these few items. 1, my gas tank sits higher than stock, so I don't see how you can't like mine because it sits so low ( how could you even tell looking at the pics anyways). 2. AFC VPC, proven combo, I have used them for years, and easy to tune. There was no speed density link or GM mafs when I started using the VPC. I do like Link, and I will certainly be running one at a later time, right now I just want to get the car running and not mess anything up, I don't want to spend a ton of money on LINK and then fry the ecu becuase I mis wired something. I use to run race gas only, but at $6.5/gl I will be forced to run the corn juice so I will have to run LINK becuase I need those huge injectors and want those globas and deadtimes set. I am fully aware of link, how to use it, how to tune it, and it will come in time. It is not like it is hard to instal dsm link, like a 3 min job, compare to all my other work, that is the easisest mod on the car, not a concern. 3. Get off the coolant bottle, geeez (in Kip voice), in the car it isn't even sprakly, it is just how I took the picture, it does have a lot of metalic in it, but no more than a factory paint job, same goes for the tranny.

Later Dr Turbo

 

[Highbooost]

New OEM slave with extended rod.

 

[Trav83]

New OEM slave with extended rod.

Why would you put an extended rod on a fresh build?

 

[Highbooost]

OEM looking axles are ready to go in, and they did.

 

[Highbooost]

Everything on the suspension had been torqued to spec and was looking good, it was time for some brakes. For years I wrestled with what I should do. DSM brakes are so pathetic I can't even describe them. For road racing I am going to want just a little more. I looked at several kits, $2000+ too much. I looked at VR-4 calipers, too wide, in fact if you want any 4 piston caliper on this car wheel spacers, or a huge offset wheels are a MUST period. I already had wheels, I wanted the stock offset so not to jack with geometry so I looked at Baer's kit. $1100 after you pick out all the stuff, still too much.

Well after much researching, I came up with the perfect combo. The calipers from Baer are really PBR calipers made in Australia. They have just designed a kit and sold them for DSMs. I said I could do it better, cheaper because I guess there is a problem when using their rotors, I believe they are made specific for their kits, making replacements a pain. These same calipers came stock on 94-98 and 99-04 Cobra, Mach 1, or Bullet models. There is a weight difference between early and late model calipers for Cobras, but the mounting point is the same as far as I know. They are hard to find, since every 4 lug 5.0 guy wants to do the 5 lug conversion they are bought up pretty quick. After a few phone calls around the country I found a pair in Cleveland, I got 03 Cobra calipers with their brackets shipped for $220. The brackets are a must, you can buy the calipers anywhere, but its those brackets that you need also. The Cobra rotor hub hole is just a hair too big, so I bought new hub rings from Bear itself, $30. Now all I needed was a bracket.

Jay from Jay Racing is a long time friend, so I sold him on the idea. I bought all the parts and he said he would design and fabricate a bracket. Nice work son, he did it, they fit and work awesome. Only thing left is the lines, super easy, I took two spare OEM clutch slave cylinder banjo adapters, bought 4 new OEM washers from Ford, and screwed in my SS (factory length) line. Since the caliper sticks out just a bit, I did have to drop the line's bracket down on the shock, not a biggie you just won't use the stock mounting hole, I just used a worm clamp to hold the brake line bracket to the shock. Project finished. So I had 220+30+free brackets (they won't be for you)+ Power slots $220 + $100 Porterfield pads = $570, super score.

Now I know people are going to want these, Jay and I have already discussed that there will not be a kit available. YOU are responsible for piecing the kit together, the only part he will be selling is the adapter brackets. So if you want to buy $100 rotors and pads from the "ZONE" go for it. No, there is not a 2g kit available, or in the works, so don't ask.

With questions about purchasing the adapters please contact Jay White @ Jay Racing 937. 248 .7846 [email protected]

One last note, I put the order of the guide pin washer, and C clip in wrong. The pin goes in first and the washer and C-clip both go on the inside.

Reader digest version:

Need hub centering rings from Bear, part # 6260127 --602.233.1411

Need 2 DSM clutch slave cylinder banjo bolt fittings

Need two 2.5" worm clamps

Stock lines: ok.

Master cylinder: ok. These are only 2 pots so there is little difference between these and stock twin pistons.

Need 94-98 cobra calipers or 99-04 cobra,mach 1, bullet calipers WITH BRACKETS.

Pads and rotors of your choice. There are some wicked choices, once these sets of brakes wear out I will be buying the aluminum hat rotors, if I use them the kit will almost weigh the same as the stock equipment but be 3" larger.

Cobra rotor diameter 13.1"
Single DSM diameter 10"
Dual DSM diameter 10.8"

The weight specs came from Autozone's website but I don't believe they include the brackets for any of these.

Caliper weight
90's cobra caliper 8lbs C389
00s' cobra caliber 5.25 lbs C464
Single dsm caliper 6.5 lbs
dual dsm 8 lbs

Pad weight
cobra pads 3.75 lbs
dsm single pads 3.25 lbs
dsm double pads 3.75 lbs

Rotor weight
94-98 mustang rotors 19.5 lbs 54046
02-04 cobra rotors 20.1 lbs 54087
dsm rotor twin piston 13.5 lbs
dsm rotor single piston 10.5 lbs

Here is a link to a pic of an exploded view of the caliper Google Image Result for http://mjbobbitt.home.comcast.net/mustang/calipers/cobra_caliper_diagram.jpg

Hope you guys like em, I know I do

 

[Highbooost]

Time to get that 90 oil cooler mounted, it took a few bending of brackets but I got it.

 

[Highbooost]

Once the oil cooler was on I could finally put all the splash guards back on.

 

[talonDSMerr]

Wow. Those brakes really fill up the wheels. Good work.

 

[Highbooost]

Final cross member pieces.

 

[dsm-onster]

You can paint and weld great!

 

[Highbooost]

Tranny is in and tight, time to go ahead and connect the driveshaft to the t-case. My driveshaft was completely trashed, it looked like I just pulled it out of Lake Erie after sitting for years. My friend Thomas had a mint AZ car that he was parting out so I picked up a mint driveshaft. Oh yea, and that aluminum one I got from Shep was nice also. Putting that thing together is quite simple. One last thing when I went to bolt up the carrier bearings, both studs broke, I didn't even get to 20ft lbs before they both snapped. I drilled the old ones out and installed new 10 X 1.25 studs. Pissed me off but easily fixed, not quite sure why they broke. It is the 3.5” driveshaft btw.

 

[Highbooost]

After finishing undercoating the mid section of the car the t-case was now ready to go on. But before all that I completely disassembled the whole thing and put all 91 guts in an all aluminum 90 housing. Shep checked it out and said I was good to go. New OEM hardware and some sandblasting makes that thing shine.

 

[Trav83]

After all this hard work you deserve your very own signature symbol

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Highbooost]

After all this hard work you deserve your very own signature symbol

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I have not commented on too many things, but that is awesome, I love it.

Later Dr Turbo

 

[GloriousDSM]

build is nuts mang!

 

[RipperXX]

hopefully before I am 30 I will have the time and money to "restore" mine to this kind of condition.

 

[Highbooost]

Time for that exhaust the welder and I made to go on. I just want to state for the record I hate V-band clamps.