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Which Rods???

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PFXGSX

15+ Year Contributor
41
0
Feb 2, 2006
Winston-Salem, North Carolina
OK I am still debating on whether to rebuild my motor w/ a 2.3L stroker kit or just get a full 6 bolt swap. I am really starting to lean to the 2.3, because I know that when it gets put together the stroker will be able to hold more power then a stock 6 bolt motor, now comes in my problem;

The list of strokers that Slowboy offers for my car is;
stage 1 at $1150
stage 2 at $1450
stage 3 at $1500

Now really the only difference is what rods and compression pistons you get with the kit

stage 1: you get Eagle or SCAT rods w/ 8,8 Ross or Wisco pistons

stage 2: Oliver, Crower, Manley, Pauter, or Carrillo rods w/ 8.8 pistons

stage 3: are GPR rods w/ 10.0, 9.5, 9.0, 8.5, 8.0 or 7.5 pistons

I have never really did that much research on rods until tonight and I was at the understanding that forged rods were some of the best, well I found that was wrong and billet was a whole lot stronger and fully machined were the best. So I'm starting to think that stage 1 is out of the picture and I'm trying to decide between stage 2 or 3 and since theres only a 50 dollar difference between the two, money is not a factor.

I'm leaning to the stage 3 because I can also choose which compression piston that I want which I'm guess will end up being 7.5:1

Someone tell me if one of the rods in stage 2, which from what I read were billet, are better than the ones in stage 3, which are billet aluminum, and which pistons Ross or Wisco

they come
.10 Ross
.20 Wisco
.30 Ross
.40 Wisco
.60 Wisco

I also came across this tonight, and figured I would share.
http://www.carrilloind.com/pdfs/10777_eprint.pdf

Right now I have a 16g and I am thinking really hard about stepping up to a T3/T4 or a 60-1 HI-FI. I will probably end up going with the 60-1 HI-FI. I am talking to Slowboy Racing about a 6 bolt stroker and will fit in my 7 bolt block w/ a few changes. If I have to go with a 7 bolt stroker kit, it probably won't happen b/c I am not wanting to crank walk again, if i can help it.

Sorry for the long post. Thanks for the help in advance.
 
First off get a 7 bolt stroker kit. It won't walk. Crankwalk is way overrated. Especially on rebuilt motor's. Second if you are only going with a 60-1 and are going to be staying on pump gas then stage 2 is all you need. 2.3L will work best at either 8.0 or 8.5:1 compression. And yes carrillo rods are very nice but aren't really worth the money because you will never get the full potential out of them. You can also do any stage in any compression ratio combo. For big turbo and pump gas I would suggest stage 2 with Manley rods and 8.0:1 compression. If you stay with your 16g you could go 8.5:1.
 
They dont give u the option to pick your compression on anything but the stage 3 and any option that is listed in stage 2 they do not show a price change on the web site.

So a 7 bolt stroker kit will not crank walk on me? This is a very good thing to hear.

Also what bore pistons should I get, or is that something that I will have to figure out once I find out what the condition of my cylinder walls are?
 
So you don't think that I should go with lower compression and by what Slowboy is saying a better set up for 50 bucks more?
 
Nothing against Pauter rods but in my personal experience with them...installed probably 40 or so of them...They are good rods but they aren't matched very well. The weight's of each rod aren't very consistant and I have had to shave a lot off before to get them within a few grams of each other. The best one's I have found so far are Carillo, Manley or Eagle H-beams. These tend to be very closely matched wieght wise.
 
Whats the story on the GRP rods? Here is their website http://www.grpconrods.com/grprod.html

For 50 dollars more are they worth it, plus that gives me the option to go down to 8.0 instead of being stuck with 8.8.

If I do get the 60-1 I will push that turbo for all its worth. With alot of good tuning also
 
Stage 3 would be a good choice and GRP rods are awesome. Have a set of custom 6.5" rods in a 383 I have been working on at home. 14.1:1 compression and I have no doubt they will handle the pressure.
 
Thats what ive been thinking all along plus i like the idea of lower compression when im hoping to go to or over 25 lbs of boost.

I know this is off topic, but have u delt with any of the fidanza cluthes?

14.1 in a 383 sounds like it will be a monster
 
Nope. Been curious to hear about them. I am sure with the quality of there flywheels there clutches would be very good. I prefer the SBR 3500 though. Feels like a 2100 with more holding pressure than a 2600 and a smooth engage. And yeah it will be a monster. Last 14:1 motor I did was a 434. 3 years ago as a drag motor. Runs consistant mid 10's no spray or induction. Never refreshed it. I did that kind of crap with I was at home in Iowa. Just build monstor motor's at work.
 
Thats awsome

I know while my motor is out I am doing a clutch and flywheel and I've pretty much got my mind set on a fidanza clutch along with the flywheel. I know its gonna kill my boost inbetween shifts but its gonna be nice to have that light of a bottem end. When i order them I'm going to weight everything together to see what the difference is.
 
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