reliability, which rods? how much hp?

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

okay so i have always read that for reliability to keep your motor stock, yes there are many reliable dsms out there which are not stock but u know what i mean.
my build consists of
HOLSET hx-35w
950cc injectors (dont know foresure yet... but probly around there)
afpr
fmic
1g intake mani + TB
2g exhuast mani
hard uipc and licp
HKS SSQV BOV or Turbo XS (have both)
3" TBE
lightweight flywheel
wideband
ecmlink
6bolt block

RIGHT NOW i have NEW oem pistons and rings, and all bearings
also ARP headstuds and rod bolts.

now i want to know if i should use the 1g rods and pistons, or if i should upgrade them.

the rods have 100k miles on them, i will have the power to run 500+ HP, although i dont think i will i will probably run around 350-400.
YES i know these rods can handle that but just for peice of mind i kinda of want to change them .
if i did what rods would you recommend? im on a budget!!!!! and pistons too

or should i just keep it simple and stick with my 1g rods?

also getting new rods and pistons will change nothing with reliability will it?

 

[SBR Joe]

If the most you want to see is 400whp leave it the way you plan. Stock internals on a 6 bolt wont flinch at those power levels. Maybe just to seal the deal, get yourself a set of ARP rod bolts to secure them more, but you will be fine. I made 400+whp consistantly with my 130k stock 6 bolt for about 4 years, and i drove 100 miles round trip to work and back...and the car(s) were not driven gently to say the least (same setup was swappped into 3 diff cars, i got bored haha).


EDIT: But if you REALLY want to get a set of rods/pistons, go with a Manley H beam/Mahle piston combo. As cheap as you get and extremely good quality and reliability, as long as its put together right

 

[LiquidX]

I choose to go with Eagle rods and Mahle pistons. Eagle has a good rep and are affordable rods as well.

 

[blizz99]

i went with eagle rods and weisco pistons DD

 

[keltalon]

If the most you want to see is 400whp leave it the way you plan. Stock internals on a 6 bolt wont flinch at those power levels. Maybe just to seal the deal, get yourself a set of ARP rod bolts to secure them more, but you will be fine. I made 400+whp consistantly with my 130k stock 6 bolt for about 4 years, and i drove 100 miles round trip to work and back...and the car(s) were not driven gently to say the least (same setup was swappped into 3 diff cars, i got bored haha).


EDIT: But if you REALLY want to get a set of rods/pistons, go with a Manley H beam/Mahle piston combo. As cheap as you get and extremely good quality and reliability, as long as its put together right

Joe is right on point! But tuning is very important!!

 

[SBR Joe]

Joe is right on point! But tuning is very important!!

Arguably more important than aftermarket rods/pistons.

 

[donniekak]

Arguably more important than aftermarket rods/pistons.

I daily drive my talon at 27ish psi on a evo and e-85. The longblock is bone stock. I have a guys engine i'm doing right now out of a 3kgt, forged ross pistons, blown to hell from a bad 16psi tune. I guess that is how he learned to use an aem ems.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

yes i have arp headstuds and rod bolts
the rods have built up some surface rust on all 4.... is this going to be a poblem and weaken them? im obviously going to get rid of it . i bought the engine and it was dry without any oil in it for a long long long long time so both the rods and the crank have some surface rust on them....
will the crank be fine too?

 

[92GSXtacy]

In your first post you said you bought bearings and in your last post your crank is a little rusty? I take it you bought the bearings before mic'ing out the crank and checking clearances?

The number ONE thing for reliability is a properly built/assembled motor, then your tune.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

yes you are correct. i did buy all new OEM bearing but they havent been installed yet. i bought a separate 6bolt block which i am getting the crank/rods out of meaning i am not reusing those bearings.