Where'd you guys ground your re-wired fuel pump?

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Ive been having trouble with my fuel pump after i re-wired it because the ground is crappy. It causes the car to not start sometimes, and its annoying. I have it pushed up over the bolt to the gas tank strap, because I couldnt get the bolt off due to rust. I dont want the ground wire to be too long, but just curious of some good spots to ground.

 

[cotsi95]

Wire is very cheap and so are connectors. I would highly recommend you keep trying till you get it right. Just remember you won't get good at soldering unless you practice.

Here is what I recommend.
1) Purchase 36 piece Heat Shrink tubing thick enough to slide easily over the 10 gauge wires for $3.
2) Go to Radio Shack and purchase 10 gauge wire for $20 and 81 piece connector set for $10.
3) Purchase a decent crimping/stripping tool for $7. Or if you want a better stripper (and strippers in more ways than one) then get this tool for $14 as well.
4) Purchase a decent soldering iron (this one has 30 watts to heat the wires faster) for $8
5) Purchase solder for $5

Now to making your connections:
1) Cut your wire lengths longer than needed.
2) Choose a connector that fits correctly to the 10 gauge wire. It should be just larger in diameter than the 10 gauge wire. If you go larger it requires more crimping... and if you go smaller you'll never get it over the wire.
3) On each end strip plastic from the wire about 1/4 inch. It really should be just a bit longer the than the metal part of the connector.
4) Take the heat shrink and slip it over the wire and away from where you will solder
5) Most connectors have a plastic cover which comes off when crimped (I think they are crap) if it does, just let it slide down the wire. Crimp the connection good and snug.
6) Solder the crap out of it. Fill every crevice of the crimp around the wire.
7) Slide the plastic cover back in place
8) Slide the heat shrink up and over the plastic cover
9) heat the heat shrink with a butane lighter till tight.
10) If you don't have heat shrink, then use electrical tape.

Thanks! those just helped me out a ton!

 

[Splitpi]

Ya just practice a lot solder scrap wires together to just get used to it. The "rosin" core solder allows the solder to flow better and gives the familiar steam of soldering. For more intrakite connections small diameter "thinner" solder is best. But for larger connections I prefer a medium size diameter solder, and this is really the only solder you will need for automotive work.

Remember you apply the solder iron to the wire and then you touch the solder to the wire. I personally "season" my iron tip by putting solder on it till the solder balls up then wipe it off with a damp sponge before using the iron. I don't know if it really matters however, I'm just use to soldering small electronics and that was just my rhythm.

The idea is to heat what you want to solder to the point that the solder "flows" into it. So heat your connections and wire up with the soldering iron, then when its good and hot touch the solder to it. The solder should just flow into all the cracks and crevices like hot butter. Most people try to heat the solder into what they are soldering and it just doesn't work that way because as soon as the hot solder touches the cold metal connection it balls and solidifys, which leaves a bad connection and what is know as a "cold" solder joint. Just clarify, you do not apply solder to the iron's tip, you apply it near the tip. The iron's tip is to heat the wires up so you can apply the solder, not a means to use to apply solder with.... if that makes more sense.

So just remember:
1) Solder Iron tip to what you want to solder.
2) Tap what you want to solder with some solder to check that it is hot enough
3) When the solder flows like hot butter its perfect and thoroughly cover your connection with solder.
4) Remove the heat and let cool

If you mess up, reheat the connection and pull it apart if need be. Remember thought the solder is VERY hot and will burn you if you flick it when you pull stuff apart, so be careful.

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Ok, i just tried re-wiring it, soldered it good, got all the connections good, and the car didnt start. So I pulled all the wires apart, and while I was trying to solder the two yellow/black wires for the pump back together, i think one of them touched the power wire and it kinda sparked, but the pump made a humming noise. I thought i blew it, but i pulled the fuse out of the power wire by the battery, and re-connected the two wires, and after a few good cranks, it started. BUT, i let it sit for a bit to see if it would die again, It didnt seem to be doing anything bad, so i gave it a little rev via the throttle body and when it went to idle down, it just died. I tried to start it back up but it wouldnt. What really confuses me is that the whole time i was trying to get the car to start after i had it re-wired(with 10 gauge and what not) i could smell gas from the exhaust. It only started AFTER i hooked it back to stock. The ECU clicked when i pulled the key out after trying to start it, and when i turned it to ON. Any ideas?

 

[snowborder714]

Well, for future reference, whenever you do ANY electrical work, you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery! Especially when working around the fuel system

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Well, for future reference, whenever you do ANY electrical work, you should ALWAYS disconnect the battery! Especially when working around the fuel system

yeah, i know dumb move by me. Could the ECU be blown? its brand new from the dealership.

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Could my coil pack be bad? I think it's something with the ignition. I pulled the spark plugs and they smelled like gas, no doubt about that. They look fine. Im gonna replace them along with the wires, then see if that helps any. Could the CAS or timing have any play in this?

 

[Splitpi]

I think you flooded your engine. Let it sit tonight and try in the morning.

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Thats what me and my dad thought too. Ill try it when i get home.

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

oh my gosh, came home, and it cranked right up. No idle issues at all. Nice and solid. Got it to operating temp and reved it a bit to make sure, idled down nicely. Thanks guys for your help, hopefully it will run good. I was thinking instead of re-wiring, just getting a Walbro 190lph pump, would that support about 300hp or a little less? I just dont want to deal with the re-wire issues anymore.

 

[Splitpi]

You really should rewire... It is not heard if you follow the directions. Pump performances is directly related to voltage.

But I am glad to hear it runs..

 

[snowborder714]

You should rewire no matter what pump you put in. Not hard and also fixes the annoying pump whine with the turn signal

 

[xlMcMlx DsM]

Yeah, but right now i just want it to run good. Ill re-wire it again soon i guess, but this winter im pulling the motor and cleaning everything, replacing stuff, so i can do that along with the re-wire. Ill have more time, too. Oh, and what kind of fuse should you use for the inline power wire? i had a 30 amp, but all the other sites say 20.