1G where to wire in MAP sensor if not using SD

[enriquez2000]

I am not ready for speed density but I want to run my MAP sensor to log correctly. On 2g you replace MDP sensor but I cant seem to find info for 1g.. any advice/help appreciated.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Pin 23 is 5v. Runs the baro and tps if I remember correctly

Not sure if this would count as a double post.
You can just tap into the maf plug. Not sure why this seems so hard.
The hard part is choosing the place you want to hook it to. The 1 g is slightly limited. If you're going to run a maf AND log a map, and log wide band, there's limits to our 1g ecu.

 

[GST with PSI]

Which is why I suggested the O2 as an input in the first place. Realistically, if you're still running a MAF, you only have the EGR and O2 inputs. If one of them is used for the WB, that only leaves one left. I chose to put my WB on the EGR input in order to retain the factory O2. When I decided to add a MAP, I wanted the ability to swap between the MAP and factory O2.

 

[edged1g]

Which is why I suggested the O2 as an input in the first place. Realistically, if you're still running a MAF, you only have the EGR and O2 inputs. If one of them is used for the WB, that only leaves one left. I chose to put my WB on the EGR input in order to retain the factory O2. When I decided to add a MAP, I wanted the ability to swap between the MAP and factory O2.

I am using a GM MAF with Link. I have my LC1 into EGR, MAP into BARO and IAT into factory IAT. I want the ability to switch between factory O2 and a fuel pressure sensor like you did with the MAP so I was researching the pinout of the O2 sensor. I came across your post (#19) but after a little more research I realized the way you have it wired in WP_001814.jpg wont work. I had the same idea of a PnP harness (that's how all my other sensors are connected, I don't hack up the factory harness), but it won't work with the factory O2. There will need to be another "leg" off the harness to get 5V sensor power.

Edit: Theres a thread on the link forums about logging fuel pressure/sensors and a guy found a cheap one on eBay that works well. Those same guys have a sender that works off 12V instead of 5V. Here

I wonder if this would work for my idea. Adding another leg to the wiring for 5V isn't a big deal but it just starts to get messy with wires tapped and running everywhere. This would be much cleaner.

 

[serviceguy]

In a stock 1G if you want to retain all stock operations of the ECU the only spare input is the EGR temperature sensor input, and that is only if you don't have a California car. If you connect a WB to the EGR and use it only for tracking your A/F then you still need to use the stock O2 in order to run closed loop. That said, if using the WB connected to the stock O2 input you can use that for closed loop (either using the simulated NB or modding the ECU code), then connect the MAP sensor to the EGR temperature input using the spare plug under the intake manifold bracket and using a 5V power supply from some other sensor. No hacking of the firewall required.

 

[edged1g]

In a stock 1G if you want to retain all stock operations of the ECU the only spare input is the EGR temperature sensor input, and that is only if you don't have a California car. If you connect a WB to the EGR and use it only for tracking your A/F then you still need to use the stock O2 in order to run closed loop. That said, if using the WB connected to the stock O2 input you can use that for closed loop (either using the simulated NB or modding the ECU code), then connect the MAP sensor to the EGR temperature input using the spare plug under the intake manifold bracket and using a 5V power supply from some other sensor. No hacking of the firewall required.

Not to be rude but everything you said here has been said multiple times in this thread and added nothing to the discussion.

 

[serviceguy]

I don't believe that to be true. In fact I found nowhere in this thread the info that the EGR temperature sensor plug is available on ALL 1Gs, regardless the fact that they are Cali or not. it seemed relevant to the OP point of not wanting to cut through the firewall. It is widely know info but it was hinted that a wire had to be run to the ECU for this purpose which is not necessarily needed.

 

[GST with PSI]

There will need to be another "leg" off the harness to get 5V sensor power. Adding another leg to the wiring for 5V isn't a big deal but it just starts to get messy with wires tapped and running everywhere. This would be much cleaner.

Yup, either option will work. You either need to sever the 12v source from the O2 connector and replace it with a 5V source, or use a 12v sensor. I completely understand the aversion to cutting up your wiring harness. I've spent nearly 100 hours reconditioning my harness, so I get it, trust me.

I don't believe that to be true. In fact I found nowhere in this thread the info that the EGR temperature sensor plug is available on ALL 1Gs, regardless the fact that they are Cali or not. it seemed relevant to the OP point of not wanting to cut through the firewall. It is widely know info but it was hinted that a wire had to be run to the ECU for this purpose which is not necessarily needed.

I can't speak for the 1G from experience, but I can tell you for certain on the Galant VR-4 the EGR temp pin on all but Cali cars is empty. You have to add the pin at the ECU plug. I've personally done this on both VR-4s I ran WBs on.

 

[serviceguy]

I'll get my spare harness when I get home and report back. out of curiosity, does the VR-4 harness have the spare connector for the EGR temperature sensor ?

In your previous post you mentioned swapping the O2 sensor for the MAP (obviously relevant to this thread), is this something that link allows you to do because you use the WB on a separate input? otherwise I don't see how you would run in closed loop (if you do that is).

 

[GST with PSI]

There are no spare connectors that I'm aware of. The FSM wiring diagrams clearly state the EGR temp sensor is present on California vehicles only, to include the 1G. How much or little of the actual wiring is there, I'm not sure. I do know for sure the Galant VR-4 federal cars do not have the wiring or a pin at the ECU. That's a fact.

In regard to closed loop, you can use the O2 input for anything you want, so long as your WB is simulating the narrowband in ECMlink. The ECU doesn't care where is gets the narrow band signal from, so long as one is present. It's easy to determine the square wave simulated signal from the factory O2 when viewing a log; you can use it as a good indicator whether or not the function is working, and which function is currently enabled.

With ECMlink, all of the user inputs to the ECU are configurable, hence being able to put a MAP sensor on what was once a NBO2 input.

 

[serviceguy]

I just checked the spare engine harness I have and the EGR temperature sensor pin is there, as well as the spare plug. I went in the garage and verified my 91 GST, a federal car from Florida with its original harness and the plug is there too. I haven't taken apart the console to check the connector but Mitsubishi would not spend the time to wire the connector if it didn't make it to the ECU. Unfortunately I could not locate the P/N in ASA, but looking at how Mitsubishi has managed other components exclusive to California cars (the solenoid cluster has a sub-harness that differs between models while the main harness has all of the wires required for California as well) I feel confident that all 91+ 5/Speed should have the same spare plug and wiring, used or not by the actual sensor. That said I am not aware of what 90 cars have but besides pin 6 and 14 swapped at the ECU the same principle should apply. I have no idea about VR-4.

 

[edged1g]

Yup, either option will work. You either need to sever the 12v source from the O2 connector and replace it with a 5V source, or use a 12v sensor. I completely understand the aversion to cutting up your wiring harness. I've spent nearly 100 hours reconditioning my harness, so I get it, trust me.

Ok, that makes sense then. It think it would be "cleaner" to go with the 12V sensor so a plug and play harness could be made to switch between the two sensors. I though I was the only one who valued not hacking up the stock harness. In fact, to wire up my wideband, I found an EGR temp connector, and spliced the signal and sensor ground(LC1 has this) into the connector and just plugged it in. It's clean, reversible, and mounts nicely to the intake manifold brace's tabs. Same with my fans. I cut a stock connector off a factory fan and wired it up so it plugs right it. Everyone thinks I am crazy but I like the clean look.

I can't speak for the 1G from experience, but I can tell you for certain on the Galant VR-4 the EGR temp pin on all but Cali cars is empty. You have to add the pin at the ECU plug. I've personally done this on both VR-4s I ran WBs on.

Strange. Its there on all 1G's as service guy said.

 

[GST with PSI]

Ok, that makes sense then. It think it would be "cleaner" to go with the 12V sensor so a plug and play harness could be made to switch between the two sensors. I though I was the only one who valued not hacking up the stock harness. In fact, to wire up my wideband, I found an EGR temp connector, and spliced the signal and sensor ground(LC1 has this) into the connector and just plugged it in. It's clean, reversible, and mounts nicely to the intake manifold brace's tabs. Same with my fans. I cut a stock connector off a factory fan and wired it up so it plugs right it. Everyone thinks I am crazy but I like the clean look.

Nope, I totally get it. I basically de-pinned my entire harness and reconditioned it. You can check out my build thread for pics and details of the whole process.

I have a junkyard harness I cannibalize for connectors. I use those connectors to make plug and play aftermarket components work all the time. I did the same thing you said with my fan connectors.