1G where to wire in MAP sensor if not using SD

[enriquez2000]

I am not ready for speed density but I want to run my MAP sensor to log correctly. On 2g you replace MDP sensor but I cant seem to find info for 1g.. any advice/help appreciated.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Your best bet would probably be the egr temp input (pin 15).

The MDP is not the only place to wire in a map on a 2g...rear o2 works too

 

[enriquez2000]

Your best bet would probably be the egr temp input (pin 15).

The MDP is not the only place to wire in a map on a 2g...rear o2 works too

but if I need to pass emissions in the upcoming years? will this be an issue.. I already have one race car I have to cheat the system with, I want this one passable

 

[c2ypt1c]

but if I need to pass emissions in the upcoming years?

1g's are pre-obd2 so you won't need to pass a "readiness" check. Emissions should be ok too, as long as the car is running good. Worst-case...wire it back up.

 

[enriquez2000]

1g's are pre-obd2 so you won't need to pass a "readiness" check. Emissions should be ok too, as long as the car is running good. Worst-case...wire it back up.

True, they will just look to make sure I have one and as long as the readings are in line Ill be ok... but doesnt it just have vacuum lines? I dont think there is any electrical connection on my 93 talon

 

[hotrodssnova]

Run it straight to the ecu pin 15. As far as emissions go, I run speed density and pass with flying colors. Here in Houston, they run the sniffer test at 2 different rpms, check for hc, nox, and co.

 

[enriquez2000]

Ok i get that.. but what do i tap in for ground and 5v then

 

[hotrodssnova]

Pin 23 is 5v. Runs the baro and tps if I remember correctly

 

[enriquez2000]

Ok so i could tap the tps 5v and ground and output signal to pin 15 and tell ecmlink its my map?

 

[hotrodssnova]

Or you could just tap into the maf wire already run up under the hood. I can't say I have run both, a map and a maf.
pm steve, he could tell you.

 

[Dsmkauai]

That's what's I said


MAP Sensor Wring
5V Power- Get this from the MAS connector. You want the Green/Red wire located at pin number 4

Sensor Ground- Get this also from the MAS connector. You want the Green/Black wire at pin number 6. When connecting to it, make it a double splice. You will also need sensor ground for the AIT sensor.

MAP Signal- The EMS for the 1G Eclipse it set up to use the stock ignition check connector wire for the MAP signal input. This is on the firewall, next to the windshield wiper motor. It is in an oval connector sized for two pins, but there is only one pin in the connector, it has a Yellow/Red wire.

 

[enriquez2000]

That's what's I said


MAP Sensor Wring
5V Power- Get this from the MAS connector. You want the Green/Red wire located at pin number 4

Sensor Ground- Get this also from the MAS connector. You want the Green/Black wire at pin number 6. When connecting to it, make it a double splice. You will also need sensor ground for the AIT sensor.

MAP Signal- The EMS for the 1G Eclipse it set up to use the stock ignition check connector wire for the MAP signal input. This is on the firewall, next to the windshield wiper motor. It is in an oval connector sized for two pins, but there is only one pin in the connector, it has a Yellow/Red wire.

Yes sir. This thread started bedore your answer.

 

[Dsmkauai]

I know just wanted to post the info so others could see

 

[enriquez2000]

Which pin on ecu does that send signal too?

 

[Dsmkauai]

What do you mean? The map signal?

 

[enriquez2000]

What do you mean?

Where dose that input pin on firewall connect to ecu? I dont see a y/r wire listed on harness... i like to be overknowledged

 

[Dsmkauai]

Oh hold on let me look at the diagram.

 

[enriquez2000]

Heres a handy one

 

[GST with PSI]

There are 5 available ECU inputs for ECMlink. Straight from ECMlink's Wiki:

• EGR Temp Input (ECU Pin 15)
• IAT Input (ECU Pin 8)
• Baro Input (ECU Pin 16)
• Front O2 (ECU Pin 4) - Only usable when “Open Loop” option is selected (V2 or V3), or narrowband O2 simulation is enabled (V3 only).
• Coolant Temp Input (ECU Pin 20) - (V3 only) - This will leave the car in “Open Loop”

On a 1G street car, the only viable ECU input for those of us not on SD is the EGR temp input. The baro input is out, because Mitsubishi factory style MAFs (1g, 2g, & Evo 8 MAFs) use the baro input. I suppose if you had a MAFT, you would be fine, but MAFTs are garbage anyway IMO. The coolant temp input is out for obvious reasons. The front O2 is out, because it will be used by either your factory O2 or by your WB, which will simulate the factory O2. That leaves just the EGR temp input for us to use.

The way I have my car setup, is the WB in hooked up to the EGR temp input on pin 15, and my GM 3 BAR MAP on the front O2 input on pin 16. Typically, people would do this the other way around, but I like having the ability to quickly swap back and forth between the MAP and factory O2 sensor. To accomplish this, I simply wired an old O2 sensor pig tail onto my MAP sensor, so that it's plug and play. This allows me to simply unplug the MAP sensor, and plug in the factory O2 whenever I want. In addition, this also keeps me from having to splice into the factory harness to wire in the MAP. Best of all, wiring it in this way will keep you from having to locate grounds and all that other crap. All the wires you need are already in the O2 sensor connector (12v, signal to ECU, and ground), just correlate each one to your MAP and you're done.

Check out this thread to ID the O2 sensor wiring: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oxygen-sensor-wiring.244376/

Here's some pictures of what I'm referring to. GM 3 BAR MAP, MAP pig tail and O2 sensor plug cut off of an old sensor:

Strip the ends:

And, the finished product soldered together. Truly plug and play now:

Then, unplug the factory O2 sensor, and plug in your MAP. Easy day...

As far as the emissions piece goes, If your motor is in good health overall, it should pass emissions without a working EGR system. I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it solely to pass emissions. Just make sure you leave all the components in place, so that you won't have an issue passing the visual inspection...that is, if your state even performs one.

 

[enriquez2000]

There are 5 available ECU inputs for ECMlink. Straight from ECMlink's Wiki:

• EGR Temp Input (ECU Pin 15)
• IAT Input (ECU Pin 8)
• Baro Input (ECU Pin 16)
• Front O2 (ECU Pin 4) - Only usable when “Open Loop” option is selected (V2 or V3), or narrowband O2 simulation is enabled (V3 only).
• Coolant Temp Input (ECU Pin 20) - (V3 only) - This will leave the car in “Open Loop”

On a 1G street car, the only viable ECU input for those of us not on SD is the EGR temp input. The baro input is out, because Mitsubishi factory style MAFs (1g, 2g, & Evo 8 MAFs) use the baro input. I suppose if you had a MAFT, you would be fine, but MAFTs are garbage anyway IMO. The coolant temp input is out for obvious reasons. The front O2 is out, because it will be used by either your factory O2 or by your WB, which will simulate the factory O2. That leaves just the EGR temp input for us to use.

The way I have my car setup, is the WB in hooked up to the EGR temp input on pin 15, and my GM 3 BAR MAP on the front O2 input on pin 16. Typically, people would do this the other way around, but I like having the ability to quickly swap back and forth between the MAP and factory O2 sensor. To accomplish this, I simply wired an old O2 sensor pig tail onto my MAP sensor, so that it's plug and play. This allows me to simply unplug the MAP sensor, and plug in the factory O2 whenever I want. In addition, this also keeps me from having to splice into the factory harness to wire in the MAP. Best of all, wiring it in this way will keep you from having to locate grounds and all that other crap. All the wires you need are already in the O2 sensor connector (12v, signal to ECU, and ground), just correlate each one to your MAP and you're done.

Check out this thread to ID the O2 sensor wiring: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oxygen-sensor-wiring.244376/

Here's some pictures of what I'm referring to. GM 3 BAR MAP, MAP pig tail and O2 sensor plug cut off of an old sensor:

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Strip the ends:

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And, the finished product soldered together. Truly plug and play now:

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Then, unplug the factory O2 sensor, and plug in your MAP. Easy day...

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As far as the emissions piece goes, If your motor is in good health overall, it should pass emissions without a working EGR system. I wouldn't worry too much about keeping it solely to pass emissions. Just make sure you leave all the components in place, so that you won't have an issue passing the visual inspection...that is, if your state even performs one.

Well i dont have an egr temp sensor in my car (non CA) so i could wire directly to ecu but im trying to tap wires in the bay. Im tired of running things thru firewall

 

[hotrodssnova]

Map sensor is 5 volts. O2 sensor is 12v.

 

[GST with PSI]

Most people don't have the actual EGR temp circuit. However, ALL 1G ECUs have a pin 15. If you go look at your ECU plug right now, you'll see pin 15 is probably empty. On non-CA cars, you just need to add a pin to the ECU harness plug at pin 15. Then, you wire the sensor input directly to the pin you've inserted. I've done this on multiple occasions, and it's super easy. Just pull a pin out of any similar connector, and insert it into the yellow main ECU connector plug on pin 15. Then, wire your sensor input to that wire. Done.

Unless your car is a CA car and has the EGR temp wiring, you don't have a choice but to run a wire through the firewall, as there won't be any wiring under to hood to tap into. In short, you don't have a choice but to run wires new wires.

Map sensor is 5 volts. O2 sensor is 12v.

Only the O2 sensor heater works off of 12v. The factory narrow band puts out roughly ~0.2v - 0.7v as a signal to the ECU...Or at least, that's where you'll see it typically cycle in ECMlink.

 

[edged1g]

Map sensor is 5 volts. O2 sensor is 12v.

Only the O2 sensor heater works off of 12v. The factory narrow band puts out roughly ~0.2v - 0.7v as a signal to the ECU...Or at least, that's where you'll see it typically cycle in ECMlink.

Bringing this back up to address this question.

The MAP sensors require 5V for power. They have a Power, ground and signal wire. The only power wire for the 1G O2 sensor is 12V from the MPI relay. Wiring it the way you have shown would power the MAP sensor with 12V. I didn't think this would work correctly.

 

[hotrodssnova]

Pull the 5 volts off the maf plug.

 

[GST with PSI]

Bringing this back up to address this question.

The MAP sensors require 5V for power. They have a Power, ground and signal wire. The only power wire for the 1G O2 sensor is 12V from the MPI relay. Wiring it the way you have shown would power the MAP sensor with 12V. I didn't think this would work correctly.

I'm sorry if my post was misleading. Yes, you're correct, the MAP needs a 5v input. I achieved this by tapping pin 23 (pin 81 on a 2G) on the car side of the O2 harness connector. This allows the connector to be plug and play. Basically, the signal and ground wires are already integrated, you just need to cut the 12v input and replace it with a 5v input (pin 23). You can also add a quick connectors to switch back and forth between the 5v and 12v inputs quickly. I hope that makes sense.

Let me up if you need more clarification.