Where to start/go from with water pump leak?/Timing belt job

[Tiki2777]

Well, I got my BISS screw put back in after it popped out and it fixed my vac leak problems, however now i have coolant peeing down the timing side of my engine. So, I have read up that it is most likely a water pump going out, and I have ruled out the connection to the water pipe from the pump. I only see the coolant dripping from underneath the harmonic dampner (Crank sprocket) and off the oil filter housing. (Moreso from the pulley). I want to do a cooling system pressure test to be sure, but it is really worth doing? I also have the timing side of my motor coated in oil from something (not leaking now, but sometime before it was, although i still believe i have a minor leak in the VC and possibly cam seals).

Basically... what parts are mandatory to replace on a motor that was rebuilt less than 30k ago if I just want to replace the water pump and necessary components? And are cam seals difficult to replace? I keep reading in the FSM, Chiltons, and the Haynes manuals that i have to remove cam sprockets and other things, which i don't really understand why this is necessary since you put them back on. How long should this take? Also, what do you guys recommend in regards to the water pump gasket IE sealant RTV etc nothing etc. Any experience from you guys would be great (throw some knowledge at me).

OH and by the way, 6 bolt swap..........

 

[gieri002]

You should be safe replacing just the water pump itself but since you are already in there you minus well toss a nice blue kevlar belt on! You can reuse all of the parts if they have been replaced in the last 30k (tensioner pulley, idler pulley, hydraulic tensioner). Obviously replace the water pump which will usually come with a gasket (don't use rtv on the pump). If you suspect your cam seals are leaking definitely replace them, this would be the perfect time since the belt will be off and won't require much more work. Start off by looking here:

Timing Belt VFAQ

Make sure you have all the tools necessary (note there is one specialty tool used for the tensioner pulley that is worth purchasing!).

 

[Joethefallen23]

Save yourself money on the "Blue Kevlar" and just get yourself an OEM Evo 9 belt...It's Kevlar reinforced from the factory. 1/3 of the cost of any aftermarket Kevlar belt and just as strong.

Not knocking Gates or HKS, but why pay hundreds when an awesome belt can be had for around $80. Have fun with the smell though...blehh

 

[WES_393]

^ The blue Gates belt is only about $100. But I agree that most kevlar belts are seriously overpriced. Especially when Gates supplies HKS with most of their purple belts...

I only see the coolant dripping from underneath the harmonic dampner (Crank sprocket) and off the oil filter housing.

Are you sure the oil cooler isn't leaking? When a water pumps goes out, it will leak from a weep hole that's right behind the water pump pulley. So I'd make sure it's actually the water pump before ripping it out.

For the water pump use only a gasket. No RTV or anything, just a dry gasket. Lightly grease the entire O-ring before installing it, that helps it slide in without twisting or tearing. To replace the cam seals you need to remove the cam pulleys. That's the only way to get them out. I'd also suggest replacing all the timing components since your already there, but with only 30k they should be fine. If you replace them, I'd get Gates pulleys and belt. A Kevlar belt is some nice reassurance, but they don't last any longer than the stock belt.

 

[Tiki2777]

^ The blue Gates belt is only about $100. But I agree that most kevlar belts are seriously overpriced. Especially when Gates supplies HKS with most of their purple belts...



Are you sure the oil cooler isn't leaking? When a water pumps goes out, it will leak from a weep hole that's right behind the water pump pulley. So I'd make sure it's actually the water pump before ripping it out.

For the water pump use only a gasket. No RTV or anything, just a dry gasket. Lightly grease the entire O-ring before installing it, that helps it slide in without twisting or tearing. To replace the cam seals you need to remove the cam pulleys. That's the only way to get them out. I'd also suggest replacing all the timing components since your already there, but with only 30k they should be fine. If you replace them, I'd get Gates pulleys and belt. A Kevlar belt is some nice reassurance, but they don't last any longer than the stock belt.

I don't understand how I could get coolant out of the oil filter housing... and specifically since it drips from under the crank sprocket and slightly onto the OFH i assumed its the water pump. (can't trace to where it is).

 

[gieri002]

I don't understand how I could get coolant out of the oil filter housing... and specifically since it drips from under the crank sprocket and slightly onto the OFH i assumed its the water pump. (can't trace to where it is).

Right. It's definitely coming from your water pump. Rip that timing cover off and you'll know for sure.

 

[WES_393]

I don't understand how I could get coolant out of the oil filter housing...

Maybe because every turbo DSM except the '90 uses a water-cooled OFH...

 

[onyxtyson]

^^Thats Correct^^
I also had the water pump leaking problem. My experience is since your in there you mine as well replace all the timin parts also because you have to take some of them off to even get to the waterpump.
Topline water pump works fine and I always use a thin line of RTV around the water pump gasket.

 

[slejhammer]

I don't know about the generic service/shop manuals. I'd go with the actual factory service manual from the car's manufacturer. Perhaps you can get it cheap on Ebay? That's where I get my manuals for cars or otherwise. Then, I go step-by-step according to directions. I come to this site for occasional advice about alternatives to high-priced aspects of a repair. Usually, someone has something relevant to say about such matters as how to avoid buying an expensive, one-time use tool, etc.