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Where I can buy this oil housing?

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Al_Scrap_Iron

15+ Year Contributor
37
0
Dec 31, 2003
QC,
Ok FWDConnection have this, but I think that oil housing must be less expensive from the dealer. Which model had this oil housing? Thanx a lot


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Al
 
Its a 1g NT housing. I think that the shop tapped that side port fitting on there though so if you get one from the dealer then you would need to tap it depending on what type of turbo you're running.
 
Mike 99GSX said:
Its a 1g NT housing. I think that the shop tapped that side port fitting on there though so if you get one from the dealer then you would need to tap it depending on what type of turbo you're running.

its not from a 1GNT. I have one of those too and it faces towards the pass side like the AWD. It just doesnt have water lines going to it.
 
I saw something like that on MachV's site. If memory serves it was like 80 bucks???
 
jetdriven said:
its not from a 1GNT. I have one of those too and it faces towards the pass side like the AWD. It just doesnt have water lines going to it.


I have had that filter housing on my car for years and it points it towards the front. It is definately off of a NT. I'll try to find the Mitsu part number when I get home tonight.
 
I dont know about the 1.8's but I know my 2.0 NT laser had the oil filter housing facing to the passenger side just like every other dsm i've ever seen, it just didnt have any type of oil cooler with it.
 
It comes off the late 80's Mitsubishi Mighty Max pickups and Dodge D50s with the carbed 6-bolt 4G63, and a few others... :thumb:

Nate
SBR
 
I bought one for my 6-bolt motor rebuild I'm doing right now.
It's from a 4G64 (that's what I was told - Mighty Max, etc..).
The benefit is it faces the oil filter forwards so there is no clearance issue when running a larger downpipe.
 
I don't have it installed yet. It's sitting there with all the other parts I'm accumulating. I'm not sure about your questions, since I haven't gotten that far into it yet. There was some good info on DSMTalk about this, which led me to go ahead and purchase it instead of a regular one. Of course, that info is all down the toilet now.

Hopefully someone who had already done the install will read this and give some insight.
 
I bought a sandwhich type water to oil cooler from a 1G. Will this not work?
 

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Nope, that only works on 91-94 turbo housings. A generic sandwich adapter from summit or similar will suffice. But most poeple get that housing to get rid of the oil cooler altogether. If you want to get rid of that POS 91-94 oil-coolant mixer but retain the provisions for an oil-air cooler, the 90 turbo part will work. You can either use the stock 90 oil cooler, or plumb in your own with a metric Oring to AN adapter.

If you are going to get rid of the oil mixer, you could (should?) also get the front water pipe and tstat housing/water neck that dont have provisions for the two coolant lines that run to it. I stuck a bolt in them and ran that way for years, but its a reliabilty concern. You can use the parts from a 90 turbo car, naturally. Since I went to a dry center turbo, I run all 1g non turbo 2.0 parts. Far fewer coolant lines to bust on me and leave me stranded. I think every single one of them broke on me at various times over the last 5 years. No ISC now either, I dont miss those lines at all. Much cleaner setup, and easier to work on :)

For a 2g using one of those housings that eliminates the oil mixer, I'm not sure there is an option for the water pipe and the like. Maybe off some generation EVO if anything. I've been running 6 bolts for a few years now, but I'd be curious to know, if anyone has any first hand experience with this.
 
leave your stock one there and build the o2 housing/downpipe right..


I am running a t4 with 3" o2/dp built as one piece I changed the oil the other day and had no issues what so ever.. it cleared better than the stock o2 wih 3" dp.
 
myblack98gst said:
leave your stock one there and build the o2 housing/downpipe right..


I am running a t4 with 3" o2/dp built as one piece I changed the oil the other day and had no issues what so ever.. it cleared better than the stock o2 wih 3" dp.

Not if its a 4" v-band ;)

LOL, but not everybody runs one. It does make it alot easier to work on anything in the front of the motor, especially if you also eliminated PS.

Nate
SBR
 
BreathinHeavy said:
i have a ffwd motor and that housing is on it what information are you guys lookin for with it, because if i dont know ill ask darren.

OK, where do you get oil to/from it for an oil cooler.
 
95GSXracer said:
If you want to get rid of that POS 91-94 oil-coolant mixer but retain the provisions for an oil-air cooler, the 90 turbo part will work. You can either use the stock 90 oil cooler, or plumb in your own with a metric Oring to AN adapter.

If you are going to get rid of the oil mixer, you could (should?) also get the front water pipe and tstat housing/water neck that dont have provisions for the two coolant lines that run to it.

So which T-Stat housing should I use? I have these 1G's right now, and already have a new water pipe. I guess I'll use a stock 90 oil cooler for now (easier & cheaper). BTW, this is my 6-bolt project going in my 96 AWD.
 

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If you use the 90 turbo filter housing, I would use the 90 turbo water pipe and tstat housing parts, assuming you are using a water cooled turbo. Trying to figure out what years those housings in the pics are hurts my brain at 3 am. I believe the only outputs on it will be for the heater core and and the turbo. The only fiting on the 90 front water pipe will be for the turbo.

leave your stock one there and build the o2 housing/downpipe right..

The O2/DP clearance issue is only one small part of the reason people switch housings. You're forgetting the part about fluids mixing, motors crankwalking, and extra coolant lines/reliabilty. ;) I lost a motor to that POS 91-99 setup, and changed the HG twice for mixing fluids. I say toss that POS in the barrel and drive it on...
 
myblack98gst said:
leave your stock one there and build the o2 housing/downpipe right..

Some people might want a longer radius bend, although with a remote filter and the 90 housing I have seen a 3" pipe with a 6" radius done without pie slicing the pipe.
 
the funny thing is if you want this mighty max part as all other oem parts the best place to buy it from is the source. Mitsubishi. Its part number MD122260 and is $20 and change from mitsubishiparts.com
 
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