When packing oil pump gear with grease, should i put grease into the housing hole?

[95EclipseGST]

I have read a lot of posts about this oil pump housing and oil pump etc. I am really worried and want to get this right tomorrow. I am going to be using Vasoline probably to pack the oil pump gears. Is there such thing as packing the gears too much? I was thinking of packing the gears and its housing in vasoline and then putting some vasoline in the oil passage hole as well, to make sure i get this oil suction i keep reading about. So i spin the gears when i get the heads and verything together before the timing belt and without any spark plugs? I really want to get this right. I have read about people puuting together their engine "balance shafts removed" and having oil leaks, even after they used thread sealant and a shorter bolt where the balance shaft tensioner, or pulley went. Im just going to fill in that hole with hight temp RTV, let it sit for about 10 min, then get a bunch on the bolt threads and finish tightening it. I have also read about the black plug on there being JB welded and other people just use rtv. Does the castle nut need any RTV? I got a brand new cstle nut and o ring, do i just tighten it and it will be good? All of these parts are OEM new, new gears, new BSE kit, new oil pump, everything. I am really sweating this thing about the gears being primed ok, yet i dont want to overdo it if its even possible to overdo. Please reply. Thank you

 

[Rob10_99]

The nut has an oring on it, I packed the crap out of my gears with regular grease.
Being that it's close to 30 degrees when I am going to start it up for the first time, my 30wt oil looked like 140wt going into the valve cover :0
Any amount of grease will help, as long as there's assembly lube everywhere in the engine you should be fine. I got a new oil pressure gauge as well, so I plan on dry cranking until I have oil pressure.

Need to find a way to heat up the oil in the pan though, little campfire underneath? Seen it done before!

Some RTV on the bolt threads and on the washer if your using that type of bolt will be fine. Same thing goes for the plug. FYI, some JB weld's turn into bubblegum when they heat up.

 

[95EclipseGST]

I messed up a bit installing the cover and gears today. I put the gasket and everything together without installing the nut on the small drive gear and it was backwards. The black plastic coated plug for one of the holes slid right in, so i used my old metal plug with some high temp RTV and lightly pressed it in. I had used copper spray on the oil pump gasket and then when i forgot teh bolt on the drive gear i pulled it all back off. It did make a small tear in the gasket but i put a thin film of high temp sealant in patches and reinstalled it. The same happened with the oil filter housing, as it came loose when i had to take it back off. I really wanted to put the project on hold until i got another gasket, but it seemed to go back together ok and the copper spray was still tacky. I didnt torque the bolts to the specified value, i just snugged them nice but not overtighten, so i hope that works ok. If i hadnt bought a new BSE kit, i would have not know to put the metal rings into the shortblock. I hope this will all work out ok.

 

[MidShipCivic]

I really want to get this right. I have read about people puuting together their engine "balance shafts removed" and having oil leaks, even after they used thread sealant and a shorter bolt where the balance shaft tensioner, or pulley went. Im just going to fill in that hole with hight temp RTV, let it sit for about 10 min, then get a bunch on the bolt threads and finish tightening it. I have also read about the black plug on there being JB welded and other people just use rtv. Does the castle nut need any RTV? I got a brand new cstle nut and o ring, do i just tighten it and it will be good? All of these parts are OEM new, new gears, new BSE kit, new oil pump, everything. I am really sweating this thing about the gears being primed ok, yet i dont want to overdo it if its even possible to overdo. Please reply. Thank you

I don't use JB weld or RTV and it never comes off, instead of using grease which will obstruct the flow of oil you can prime the entire motor with out even spinning anything.

If their engine leaks with a shorter bolt where the pulley use to reside then they are obviously doing something wrong there isn't anything wrong with using the original bolt and using the pulley as a spacer.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...pump-timing-components-already-installed.html

 

[this_tsi_8urV8]

I don't use JB weld or RTV and it never comes off, instead of using grease which will obstruct the flow of oil you can prime the entire motor with out even spinning anything.

If their engine leaks with a shorter bolt where the pulley use to reside then they are obviously doing something wrong there isn't anything wrong with using the original bolt and using the pulley as a spacer.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...pump-timing-components-already-installed.html

Let us know what you use then mad scientist.
I used the blk cap from the vfaq with some rtv and it popped off while doing some tuning. I didn't even know it popped off.
Now I put in a freeze plug, hammered it in and JB welded that mug on there. I don't think it's going anywhere.

 

[MidShipCivic]

Let us know what you use then mad scientist.

I used the blk cap from the vfaq with some rtv and it popped off while doing some tuning. I didn't even know it popped off.

Blow by much ? I use nothing on it.

 

[95EclipseGST]

Ok, dont confuse me here. Was it ok then to use my metal cap and tap it in there? Did i do something thats going to cause "blow by"?

 

[tkelly27]

You've got some big pressure inside your crank case for that to pop out is what they're saying.

 

[dsmfa9nutter]

This is what assembly lube is for. Use it liberally EVERYWHERE metal contacts metal in a fresh motor.

 

[ziggo0]

This is what assembly lube is for. Use it liberally EVERYWHERE metal contacts metal in a fresh motor.

Except where bearings sit in.