The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Post a Question

When do you shift? [Merged 7-8] points shifting revs point

Please Support STM Tuned

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Don't do that on a hill like that... just do it on flat ground...

don't touch the gas, slowly let the clutch out until it just catches and the car's idler motor will keep the car's revvs up and the car will start to move. I was taught to drive stick with the gas... i teach everyone using the no gas method and they always get it right within 2-3 stalls. If you can do that then you will be fine with clutch control.

As for shifts, don't bang them in and it's fine. Make sure that if you're doing some spirited driving that you rev match your down shifts through corners while trail braking by using some heel and toe methods. This means you use your left foot on the clutch, right foot toes on the brake, and right foot heel on the brake. you are meerly blipping the gas to bring to revvs up though.

this is how i drive every day and it works fine for me. i've yet to destroy a clutch as where my friend who doesnt revv match his downshifts and uses the gas heavily to start off in 1st has gone through 3 act 2600s since i got my car 2 years ago.
 
If the car rolls back, you know you aren't good at it. You can't have the car roll back on a flat ground, so you don't really know how good you are.

And no, you don't sit at a flat surface, you move forward and back about 10 feet. The idea is to make the car move forward on the slope (going up) buy using just the clutch and then letting the car roll back just by pusing the clutch in (no brake or handbrake) and then using the clutch to move forward again without stalling the car. The most important thing is to amount of "roll" you want to have before you start.

JiveMasterTs method is similar to mine, but he doesn't use gas and does it on a flat surface. I'm sure there are many other ways to learn how to properly control a clutch.
 
DGajre777 said:
If the car rolls back, you know you aren't good at it. You can't have the car roll back on a flat ground, so you don't really know how good you are.

And no, you don't sit at a flat surface, you move forward and back about 10 feet. The idea is to make the car move forward on the slope (going up) buy using just the clutch and then letting the car roll back just by pusing the clutch in (no brake or handbrake) and then using the clutch to move forward again without stalling the car. The most important thing is to amount of "roll" you want to have before you start.

JiveMasterTs method is similar to mine, but he doesn't use gas and does it on a flat surface. I'm sure there are many other ways to learn how to properly control a clutch.
Click to expand...

If you are on a hill, wouldn't you just be wearing the clutch for no reason by doing this? I mean, go into neutral and put up the ebrakeenough to just hold ## car there. shift into first when the light goes green, start moving and let down the ebrake.
 
napkinthief said:
If you are on a hill, wouldn't you just be wearing the clutch for no reason by doing this? I mean, go into neutral and put up the ebrakeenough to just hold ## car there. shift into first when the light goes green, start moving and let down the ebrake.
Click to expand...

Yes, you can use the ebrake, but that's not the point of doing this. Tthe reason is to learn how to control your clutch. As for wear on the clutch, as long as you rev match it, it won't hurt the clutch.
 
Oh my lord..... lots of misinformation going on in here.

If you want to shift fast, you got an EPROM chip (if you do not have an EPROM ECU, you will need one) that allows you to set the rev limiter at different levels according to variables for example:

Clutch engaged, speed 1 mph or higher: rev limit normal
Clutch disengaged, Speed 0: Rev limit set to 4750 rpms
Clutch disengaged, Speed 1 mph or higher: rev limit set to 5500 rpms

you can set the RPM higher or lower if you wish.

What this allows you to do is shift without left off the gas pedal. You just stomp the clutch and jam it into the next gear as hard as possible, this feature is commonly known as "No lift to shift"

I will get you a video later of "no lift to shift" The only shift he does this is the 2nd-3rd shift, so watch that. Also notice his rev limit at the start, this is also done with an Modified EPROM chip.
 
laserspeeddemon said:
Oh my lord..... lots of misinformation going on in here.

If you want to shift fast, you got an EPROM chip (if you do not have an EPROM ECU, you will need one) that allows you to set the rev limiter at different levels according to variables for example:

Clutch engaged, speed 1 mph or higher: rev limit normal
Clutch disengaged, Speed 0: Rev limit set to 4750 rpms
Clutch disengaged, Speed 1 mph or higher: rev limit set to 5500 rpms

you can set the RPM higher or lower if you wish.

What this allows you to do is shift without left off the gas pedal. You just stomp the clutch and jam it into the next gear as hard as possible, this feature is commonly known as "No lift to shift"

I will get you a video later of "no lift to shift" The only shift he does this is the 2nd-3rd shift, so watch that. Also notice his rev limit at the start, this is also done with an Modified EPROM chip.
Click to expand...

I thought stock 2Gs didn't have any rev limit on it? And if it does, it is definately not at 5500RPMS because I have gone past that.

And isn't the "no lift to shift" a DSMLink only feature?
 
DGajre777 said:
I thought stock 2Gs didn't have any rev limit on it? And if it does, it is definately not at 5500RPMS because I have gone past that.

And isn't the "no lift to shift" a DSMLink only feature?
Click to expand...


No lift to shift is on DSMlink and any custom EPROM chip. Also if you have AEM etc it will have NLTS too. If you attempt NLTS on a vehicle that doesn't have the ability to cap RPM's when the clutch is pushed in, you're just asking to blow your engine up.

Once you're moving 1mph (on DSMlink) the ECU will set the maximum RPM's your engine can spin when the clutch is pressed in at 5500rpm (in the example above). Without the ability to cap the RPM's, you will over-rev the engine if you don't shift lightning fast.
 
EclpzLvr97 said:
Umm...what is this shifting without the clutch? Explain that one......
Click to expand...


If you are referring to the no lift to shift, that is something different that I hardly know anything about. But if you want to know about bullshitting around driving in traffic(NO HIGH RPMS!!!!) then its easy, just match the RPMs. Slide it out of gear and slide into the next one before the RPMs drop, it should slide in, if it doesnt dont force it and use the clutch.
 
No-Lift-to shift is shifting without lifting your foot off the GAS pedal, NOT THE CLUTCH PEDAL.

"Keep the throttle down during shifts. Reduces lag and provides smoother shifting in many cases." - DSMLink website.
 
smoother shift?, its a ####ing kick in the nuts for the transmission to shift likethat.

btw no lift to shift is called POWERSHIFT, I mentioned it twice in this thread, and y ou can blow you engine quite easily doing it. The rev limiter idea is definately smart and will protect your motor but if you dont have a revlimiter set at 5500rpm and you miss the shift, you will be towing your car home.
 
Wow....just wow. It's amazing how people reply to a thread that they didn't even read through.

No Lift To Shift allows you to shift without letting off the gas, but the RPMs fall like they would if you were to shift normally. Trust me, I have it on my MSD ignition. The only real difference between your everyday fast shift and "No Lift To Shift" is that NLTS allows you to hold your boost between shifts, so there is no lag. The car feels like a naturally aspirated car; there is no blow off between shifts, and you get instant power into the next gear. It does actually make shifting smoother and easier on the transmission if done right.
 
FusionTalon said:
smoother shift?, its a ####ing kick in the nuts for the transmission to shift likethat.
Click to expand...

What does the throttle plate being open during shifts have to do with a "kick in the nuts" for a tranny??

eclipsegsx1736 said:
Wow....just wow. It's amazing how people reply to a thread that they didn't even read through.

No Lift To Shift allows you to shift without letting off the gas, but the RPMs fall like they would if you were to shift normally. Trust me, I have it on my MSD ignition. The only real difference between your everyday fast shift and "No Lift To Shift" is that NLTS allows you to hold your boost between shifts, so there is no lag. The car feels like a naturally aspirated car; there is no blow off between shifts, and you get instant power into the next gear. It does actually make shifting smoother and easier on the transmission if done right.
Click to expand...

Agreed! :thumb:
 
eclipsegsx1736 said:
Wow....just wow. It's amazing how people reply to a thread that they didn't even read through.

No Lift To Shift allows you to shift without letting off the gas, but the RPMs fall like they would if you were to shift normally. Trust me, I have it on my MSD ignition. The only real difference between your everyday fast shift and "No Lift To Shift" is that NLTS allows you to hold your boost between shifts, so there is no lag. The car feels like a naturally aspirated car; there is no blow off between shifts, and you get instant power into the next gear. It does actually make shifting smoother and easier on the transmission if done right.
Click to expand...

WTF Disagree. RPMS on a car are determined by gear speed while in a given gear. If you NLTS from 2nd gear to 3rd gear, the engine speed match 3rd almost immedatly. I have yet to install in my car to see, but I have seen many DSMs and EVOs with NTLS programmed ECUs, I would have to say it is a kick in the nuts. Especially the Transmission depending on how good your scyncros or even if you have a Dog-box. If you you RPMS slide down, like you are discribing, then your clutch is slipping. This is why MANY DSMer with NLTS don't use it in the 1-2 shift, but rather the 2-3 shift or 3-4 shift if you can get that fast.
 
What RPM do you shift at when you race your car down the track? I shift at 6 thousand or do you shift at redline.

Thank you for your answer.:)
 
The only way to truly figure this out is to dyno your vehicle (If you're serious about it) & and get the exact shift points; where your powerband starts, and where your powerband ends. Usually, NT's aren't always at peak horsepower until high rpms, but when you redline every gear, there's an RPM where you actually stop putting down power, and it's better to shift and go back into your powerband. Besides dyno, you can just drive your car around and attempt to approximate which RPM to shift at by "feeling" at what RPM your car stops "pulling."

But, if you're just too lazy to do this, or just want the straight forward "generalized" answer, http://www.2gnt.com provides a shift point list. You could start with that, and change as you'd like depending on what you feel is better.

http://www.2gnt.com/nuke/modules.php?name=FAQ&myfaq=yes&id_cat=1&categories=General#18

There's the URL

Hope this helps ! :thumb:
 
It all really depends on where your power band is and how built you head is. Some turbos arent as effective at high rpms. My 14b used to fall off around 6200 rpms or so. But my 18g pulls to 7500, dunno if it goes higher...never tried:dsm:


::edit:: Sorry, it was basically stated in the post above me. Sorry about that.
 
Since your car is NA, you don't have to worry about boost falling off, so I would take it to about 6,500. And the reason for asking about toping out third was, I saw you trapped an 85 in the quarter. I believe your third will go just a little past 85mph, so I hope you didn't waste the time shifting into forth when you could of stayed in third to the finish line. Just a thought.
 
Thank you for the replys, but I have a little trouble shifting from 2nd to 3rd. That slows me down more then 3rd to 4th. Just got to (safely) practice a little more.
 
safely my aOMGs!!!!!BURN DOWN THE STREET AND DO IT IN THE CRAZYIEST MANNER POSSIBOL. Remember old people is a 15 point bonus!!!

JUST KIDDING!!!!! Do not do that but.....now seeing that on my N/t first 2nd and third have a 3k power band usually. 1st is always a better one and 2nd is a little less sometime(weird i know).......4th is such a damn gear i hate to get on the highway i have to drop it into 3rd a lot just to get out of the way of dieing!!!4th gear dosent hit it untill 4k-5k. I go till red sometimes but i dont like doing so with my high milage car :'(
 
when i had a decent turbo dsm, i shifted at around 6500, thats when the 14b dropped off. My 1.8L i revv till it cant pull anymore rpms :) which is around 6k LOLol. A 98 GSX that i was going to buy about a few months ago but didnt becasue it had been in quite a few accedents, had an 18g, during the test drive i hit 8200, no bullshit here, thats about where the turbo dropepd off...definately not very safe LOL

my buddy shifts at 9k, he has a B16 JDM civic LOL...weedwacker engine
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Boosted Fabrication
ECM Tuning
ExtremePSI
FIBA Motorsport
Fuel Injector Clinic
Innovation Products
Jacks Transmissions
JNZ Tuning
Kiggly Racing
Morrison Fabrications
Rix Racing
RockAuto
STM Tuned
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top