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1991eagleawd

10+ Year Contributor
88
0
Jul 5, 2011
toronto, ON, Canada
LIST OF UPGRADES

clutch masters 2600lb clutch
lightened fly wheel
Mild head port
550 injectors
190lb/h fuel pump
rewired fuel power lines
FMIC
3 inch stainless Megan Racing down pipe
3 inch cat
flow-master aluminum rad
dual 10" pusher fans
B&M fuel pressure regulator
accel 900 plug wires
BIG 16g turbo
new turbo lines
Apex i SAF2 fuel controller
Apex i turbo timer
Auto meter wideband
Auto meter boost , oil and temp gauge
Second ECU with new caps installed
ECU in car has caps replaced

I'm fairly new to the dsm scene, and would love some feed back from you die hards.
I have about 600$ to spend on the car this week.:shhh:(dont tell the wifey)
I was leaning to a FP manifoldhttp://store.forcedperformance.net/PROD/EMFPRace.html
and a new shinney dump pipe.
Or a SS intake manifold. (little knowledge on this)
But i thought to myself,.....I could use a DSM link to help me tune.(cause it needs it). But I am a bit iffy on the link system due to my lack of experience.
I am open to any intelligent sudgestions on what I should be doning here.
Thank you in advance.
 
Yes thats what i thought ive had link for some time and never saw it there, no one i know uses autometer widebands.
 
Work with you have and make changes later, youll learn what works and doesnt for you, after having link my buddy sold his aem ugeo, we found it easier to tune with innovative, plus its stealth, hate when things are visible, again im a low key guy, sometimes youll never know where im at. LOL
 
Yes you do need an eprom ecu. You can send your non eprom to link and they can convert it for you. I think they even have a package deal for that.




Well, thats what i mean. You could run Jackal instead of link if you wanted.

First I cannot thank you guys enough!!!!

So..... We have to remember I only have a 600$ budget for now.
So..... V3 lite 425$, and a eprom conversion 135$, and maybe they will throw in the sd set up for an extra 40$? =600$

does this sound about right? I might pass on the SD for now....
I just wanna tune my baby!! :cry:

Hmm the autometer is not on the supported kits list on the link site. :hmm:

RRRRRRahhhhhhhh! That was a waste of money!:notgood:
How does this tie into the link anyway?

Again thank you all for all the support:thumb:
I'll be sure to pass around this knowledge where needed.
 
Pass on the SD

Tune the car on the MAF so you have a good baseline before you move to SD

No sense in trying to learn everything at once.
 
Pass on the SD

Tune the car on the MAF so you have a good baseline before you move to SD

No sense in trying to learn everything at once.

True I forgot if your not good at tuning you will need something base to go off of.So just do the best thing and get ecmlink you can get one on the classifieds with ecu for cheap and keep some money in your pocket.
 
True I forgot if your not good at tuning you will need something base to go off of.So just do the best thing and get ecmlink you can get one on the classifieds with ecu for cheap and keep some money in your pocket.

I cannot seem to find a ecm and eprom near me to buy. I did have a fellow on this site offer me a full version for sale. But I am almost inclined to just send out what I have cause it comes back done for me, by guys that do it for a living.....

And I am also wondering about the WB set up? How does it tie into the this? I understand how they work, just not how its not compatible? It is a different system. Excuse the question, I am sure there is a simple answer.

And if you answer, ? Is there a way to make this "incompatible" WB to work?
incompatible....:aha:
 
So the a/f ration the wideband gives out is the air to fuel ratio.So ideal you want a 14:7 at cruise and idle and 11:1 at WOT.You don't want it to lean of air such as like 18:0 or to rich like 8:0.Detonation is dangerous.Does that kind of make some sence to you?
 
Pass on the SD

Tune the car on the MAF so you have a good baseline before you move to SD

No sense in trying to learn everything at once.

I really did make much sense of your message...sorry
I was to efffffffing busy looking at your engine bay...:pray:
Super jelous right now Hal.

I am going to do just what you said. Thank you.

So,.... link, eprom, .....read a hole lot....tune?

So the a/f ration the wideband gives out is the air to fuel ratio.So ideal you want a 14:7 at cruise and idle and 11:1 at WOT.You don't want it to lean of air such as like 18:0 or to rich like 8:0.Detonation is dangerous.Does that kind of make some sence to you?

yes perfect sense. I knew about the stoich 14.7. What I was unaware of was that WOT was 11:1. I read it should be at 13:1. Good to know
 
Speed denisty takes more to tune then pulling the reading off a stock maf on the car.So might be easier just using your stock maf at the moment unless you know someone that can help you tune.But definetly go the ecmlink I even wish it was my first upgrade there are tons of stuff you can do on it.Such as turn the stock boost gauge to a knock gauge, or make your check engine light come on if your engine temp goes about 225 degrees.So yea definetly money well worth spent.
 
I really did make much sense of your message...sorry
I was to efffffffing busy looking at your engine bay...:pray:
Super jelous right now Hal.

I am going to do just what you said. Thank you.

So,.... link, eprom, .....read a hole lot....tune?



yes perfect sense. I knew about the stoich 14.7. What I was unaware of was that WOT was 11:1. I read it should be at 13:1. Good to know

Different a/f ratios for different setups but idealy for your's you will just learn to tune for knock.Add as much boost as you want till you see knock on the log and then turn it down once you get started on it you will understand.To bad you arent closer to calgery I have some friends up there I love going up to canada.
 
Speed denisty takes more to tune then pulling the reading off a stock maf on the car.So might be easier just using your stock maf at the moment unless you know someone that can help you tune.But definetly go the ecmlink I even wish it was my first upgrade there are tons of stuff you can do on it.Such as turn the stock boost gauge to a knock gauge, or make your check engine light come on if your engine temp goes about 225 degrees.So yea definetly money well worth spent.

Perfect.

I was wondering how your fp mani fit when you got it? I have heard of people having to machine it..

Different a/f ratios for different setups but idealy for your's you will just learn to tune for knock.Add as much boost as you want till you see knock on the log and then turn it down once you get started on it you will understand.To bad you arent closer to calgery I have some friends up there I love going up to canada.

!DAM.
I recently moved from Edmonton to hear:ohdamn:
I am not far from magnus motor sports. BUT.....after you see their prices:heystupid:

If you plan on going serious with this car I would just save yourself the time and get the full version, because at some point you are going to over run the stock MAF and you are going to find yourself eyeballing speed density and that isn't covered in the light version. Go big or go home right?

thought SD comes with the lite??
 
8000 RPM & 26psi Speed Density support - V3Lite
10000 RPM & 40psi Speed Density support - full V3

The great thing about the LC-1 wideband is that you can wire it to the ecu after you have link. You can then simulate narrow band 02 and log wideband values.
The MAP sensor, is required for speed density, but will make tuning a MAF MUCH easier.

I have the FP exhaust MANI. I did not have to grind it at all, however I did have to remove 4 of the exhaust mani studs on the right side so I could get the mani past the dip stick. Then screwed them back in once the manifold was in place. Luckily, I have the ARP exhaust mani stud kit that has the allen heads for easy install/ removal.
ARP SS Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit DSM/Evo - Modern Automotive Performance
 
8000 RPM & 26psi Speed Density support - V3Lite
10000 RPM & 40psi Speed Density support - full V3

The great thing about the LC-1 wideband is that you can wire it to the ecu after you have link. You can then simulate narrow band 02 and log wideband values.
The MAP sensor, is required for speed density, but will make tuning a MAF MUCH easier.

I have the FP exhaust MANI. I did not have to grind it at all, however I did have to remove 4 of the exhaust mani studs on the right side so I could get the mani past the dip stick. Then screwed them back in once the manifold was in place. Luckily, I have the ARP exhaust mani stud kit that has the allen heads for easy install/ removal.
ARP SS Exhaust Manifold Stud & Nut Kit DSM/Evo - Modern Automotive Performance

how did you find the 12 point nuts? seem like they could strip easy? but the allen key is genious
 
You should definitely get Ecmlink.

Also, if you do get ecmlink, you get access to the forums there. There are lots of good tuning info there, and they are very helpful too.
 
how did you find the 12 point nuts? seem like they could strip easy? but the allen key is genious

The 12 point nuts are made of the same material as the stud, very strong but only need to be torqued to 22lbs anyway. Keep in mind that the chromoly manifold to turbo bolts are also 12 pt. And I torque those to 100ft/ lbs with no issues.
 
You should definitely get Ecmlink.

Also, if you do get ecmlink, you get access to the forums there. There are lots of good tuning info there, and they are very helpful too.

Super good to hear! I bought one today!:hellyeah:

So I got the v3 lite version. And a eprom conversion with new caps!

I thank everyone for all the help and input.
Time to read up on the new toy!!!
 
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