what weight oil should I use for ticking?

[alfred480]

Currently using 5w30 valvoline synthetic and my lifters r ticking like mad now, any recommendations on what oil weight I should use to help with the ticking? I searched around the forum and I hear that 10w30 is the factory recommended should I go thicker or just try to 10w30 and see how that goes first? Or even possibly add lucas oil stabilizer to my current oil?

Thanks
Alfred

 

[TSITurbo95]

I use 10w-30 full synthetic in mine. IDK what exactly to use either, but 5w-30 is too thin, GET IT OUT! .

 

[alfred480]

does you car tick?
and should I just add lucas oil stabilizer for now cause my oil was just changed about 1000km ago

 

[TSITurbo95]

DSM's are notorious for lifter tick. Mine I did not hear a difference in the ticking. Its not super loud, but can still tell if you listen closely. To be safe, I would get that oil out, and run 10w-30 in it. Can't go wrong with factory specs .

 

[rich3389]

I would 10-30 but 5-30 isnt a big deal. I am also using valvoline synthetic and it noticed alot more lifter tick than with cheap Castrol GTX. This is 10-30 on both oils also.

 

[alfred480]

Okay should I go full synthetic or regular oil?

 

[slowgsr]

I would add 50% of the recommended amount of lucas (they always tell you to use too much of that stuff I think) In my daily beater (96 awd) I just use normal non synthetic oil and some lucas. It ticks quietly but its not an issue. Im not sure how loud yours is.

 

[rich3389]

Okay should I go full synthetic or regular oil?

Its really preference, some will tell you Mobil1 only, some just use whatever.
In my opinion as long as you change the oil and filter it will be fine, these cars are not very oil finicky.

 

[Diamondrev]

yeah dont let anyone tell you, you should run a different weight. I had a guy at autozone tell me I should run 20w-50. HAHA I laughed in his face. stay with the factory specs.

 

[alfred480]

Okay, I guess I'll try Castrol 10w30 but should I go synthetic? or Regular?

 

[99gst214]

Try using a higher viscosity oil. 10W30 (Mobil 1). I personally use 10w30 castrol GTX (non synthetic) works great. Do not use any additive except for a last resort, after you have tryed everything else. Your lifters may just be getting old and have some wear on them. Might think about installing 3g lifters! Just a thought.

 

[LiquidX]

First stay away from the Lucas unless it's the synthetic kind made for turbo vehicles. It usually makes the oil too thick and stick in the center section of the turbo which is bad. For lifter tick, you should just pop them out and put in the revised 3g lifters (not 3g Eclipse) which have a larger port on top.

Synthetic vs dino is all based on how many miles are on the engine. I had 54k miles on my engine when I got it and put synthetic with out problems. If you are say 80k+ miles just stick with what's been used or try a blend oil. Synthetic will clean the inside of the engine which is a good thing on low mile blocks to keep the crud from building up, but on high mile engines some of that build up is actually sealing potential leaks.

You will hear people saying they have oil leaks after they switch to a synthetic oil on high mile cars.

 

[alfred480]

I currently have full synthetic and there is no oil leaks, but the oil is too thin so I am thinking of trying castrol edge 10w30 and later on when summer comes I'll do the lifters if the ticking continues.

 

[LiquidX]

What are your claims to having too thin of an oil? If you run synthetic than stick with synthetic. Using inferior oils won't get rid of lifter tick so regular is out. It only takes at most an hour to do the lifters with out taking the the cams off. Just need a pry bar and sturdy flat head screwdriver. That's how I've done mine both times without issues.

 

[alfred480]

I do not know if it is too thin but from what I have heard the factory is recommending 10w30 so I am gonna switch to it, cause my current one is 5w30. Also, Castrol Edge is full synthetic its not regular motor oil. And I am trying to avoid the lifter job for now until I have more time, if this switch to a thicker oil can help with the ticking I'll take it for now.

<off topic>
Anyone know how much oil a 95 talon tsi needs? Preferably the number is in Litres but I can always convert.

Thanks

 

[97gstjosh]

Mobil 1 0w-30 all year round.... Not to thin at all.... Its got the same viscosity as 10w-30 warmed up and is easier on the motor at start up soooo I dont see the problem going thinner unless your gonna track it then go thicker

 

[99gst214]

4.2 Quarts = 3.974682369 Liters

 

[95burgundyesi]

I run 20w-50 valvoline VR1 non synthetic, and no tick. Yay for 3g lifters that cam in the 6 bolt head for free. That is the only victory/freebe I every got out of anything involving a DSM.

 

[alfred480]

Okay thanks everyone!

 

[bo0st]

dude why are you using 5w-30? our engines need 10w-30 full synthetic

 

[alfred480]

Um, my mechanic put it in? I didnt realize until after . So between 10w30 and 15w50 which one should I use? I was told to MAYBE try 15w50 because the car is turbo and they usually require thicker oils or should I just stick with 10w30?

Also any thoughts on Royal Purple vs Castrol vs Mobil 1?
Which one may be the best I've heard Royal Purple is the best. Other thoughts?

 

[snakeyes711]

Make sure to use a good oil filter also. Such as a mobil1 or other equivalent. That makes all the difference too.

 

[toofast82]

I would probably stick with a 10w-30 because you're in Canada and it gets cold, .
Try a bottle of Engine Restorer 6cyl.
It should make your lifters near silent in a matter of minutes. I've used it on 3 dsms with slight lifter tick and it got rid of it. My current one used to get phantom knock from the lifters and cause normal drivability issues from time to time. Engine Restorer took care of it in about a block.
Years ago when I was new into dsms, someone told me about how well the product worked for this issue.
Also, thin synthetic oils have a tendency to find oil leaks in older engines that have regularly used conventional oil.

 

[fhudsonjr]

What ever you use always use a FULL synthetic. Why do you think the manufacturers put synthetic in Vipers and Vettes?

I believe Amsoil is the best.

 

[2slow4now]

Just to throw something in here about selecting a weight of oil and some reasons to select one over another.

The 5w, 10w, or 15w only means the oil "acts" like that viscosity when its cold such as in winter when its harder to start a vehicle. W does stand for winter. Lighter "acting" oil = easier cold cranking

That leaves the 20, 30, or 50 which also indicates viscosity but during normal operating temps. After the car has been started and the engine is warm.

So 30 weight oil acts like 30 weight oil except at lower temps due to which winter weight it is.

Synthetic oil 1 maintains its viscosity at higher temperatures (less coking)
2 remains "thinner" at lower temperatures.(flows better)
3 provides a "slicker" surface than conventional oil. (adheres to metal)
4 last longer than regular oils. (chemically stable)

Synthetic oils on leaking. It is "slicker" than conventional so if you have seals and rings that are worn (high mileage) it is more possible for it to slide past the friction of the seal. Which if your getting to that point of mileage and wear they are gonna start leaking anyways.

Things to consider:
degree of engine wear-tight clearances thinner oil
time of year and how cold it gets in your area- colder less winter weight
cars use-your goals mileage, longevity, power level
your car-what it likes
engine broke in or not- synthetic is too slick
money-its up to you and your billfold
and if you didn't notice personal preferance

BTW me 10w-30 syn blend. Little bit of lifter tick. Need the upgrade lifters.