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What the Youtube turbo rebuild didn't show you.

First and foremost this is not a "how to rebuild" there are plenty detailed references on the subject, however some "practices" are incorrect.

First off, before you even start your rebuild lets take a look at the kit to be used.

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Use only genuine Mitsubishi parts, You'll see on eBay kits sold very cheap. The parts fit fine, however the diffrence is that Mitsubishi has tighter tolerances vs. the eBay kit. Ebay kits use also use brass that is of lower quality. Be wary, as with most things, you get what you pay for. There's a reason your turbo lasted 100,xxx miles. It wasn't done by washing old parts and using cheap metal.

Dis-assembly, covered by other references. However lets take a look at parts that came out.

First, your bearings.
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When you pull yours out inspect your used bearing, notice the deep scratches and gauges. What this tells you is that your is that your bearing housing may need to be inspected for scaring, and to work properly your bearing housing my need to be machined. .005 can be honed out and used to clean it up, however it can only be taken as far as .015. If you see damage and you do not hone your housing the new bearing you replace it with will prematurely wear, and you will have wasted your money.

*note- if you hone your housing for example .005, the bearing you will need to purchase will be listed .005xSTD (HousingXShaft) STD=Standard.

Next your Turbine housing (Hot Side or Exhaust)
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* Hard to see but there is cracks

You may see cracks in your cast, carefully examine, minor cracks are fine, however larger ones must be welded, filled in and then ground down. Generally if your crack goes though the inside of the housing to outside, a weld is required. DO NOT use JB weld. There will be cracks, around the flapper Shown here, do your best to fill these and grind down so the flapper seats properly.


Actuator, so many times I see people neglect such an important component. Lets take a look.
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Before you do anything, using a regulator set to 35 psi pressurize your actuator and hold for 10 sec listening for leaks. If you leak, your diaphragm might need some help. Using a small amount of marvel mystery oil, fill your actuator and try to lube it up and see if it will hold. If You pressurize it and a cloud of rust just shot out, you will need a new actuator in your future. Lube and spray until what leaks is no longer rust colored. * NOTE if you do not have a regulator spray air from 1/2 inch back to get it to work. If you plug in your 90 psi or above compressor in, you run the chance of blowing your part.


Cleaning an actuator.

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Do not sand blast, only bead or similar media. Elbow grease works as well. Do not use brake cleaner or solvent, you will destroy the rubber diaphragm. tape off inlet hole and the base. You do not want to get media in your actuator.

Paint your actuator, using correct paint used to paint exhaust manifolds. This will keep the metal safe, for later rebuilds it will be easier to remove pin, and can keep the the actuator in good condition. It also just looks better.
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Resumed in part 2
 
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