What sensor would do this?!?

[Staged]

Okay, feedback for all the future questions:
Balance shaft belt went nuts, and the oil filter literally spun off during a run in with a Mustang SVT (Which I spanked anyway).
IMMEDIATELY shut down when the AutoMeter warning came on and pulled over. Put a new oil filter and oil on at site and started it up. Belt was squeeling like crazy. Embaressingly, the Mustang took me for the oil and filter.
You think this is a remove the balance shafts question? It's not.
I cut the belt off and took the car home, still plenty of power. Next day, replaced the balance shaft belt, and checked the shaft play and it turned decent enough. Started the car and SMOKE EVERYWHERE! Lots of squeeling and I shut down. Balance shaft bearing is froze. Screw it, cut the $16 belt off and left it, we could all use a little vibration for the ladies...
Changed my transmission, went Stage 2 clutch kit, replaced timing belt and belt adjuster, replaced even the valve cover bolts. Serious tapping in the valve cover!
Replaced the valve lashes with 2nd gen and then tried again. No inside warning lights, oil pressure is there, lashes are quiet as a sleeping baby, no leaks, timed correctly, tranny is solid for a launch.... and ........

Boost went from 16 to 4 or 5 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bishilvr mentioned the knock sensor, but I am out of state, and I forgot my cable, so I have no idea if that is skyrocketing! I am going Baton Rouge next weekend and we will datalog it there on a friends line. It drives like a 92 Automatic 1.8lt and I don't know where to go with this!

I am stuck in Texas! Well, it drives, and all... but I can't make this road trip unless I am racing... Shoot, I am thinking of racing a few 4cylinder automatic Mustangs to keep my moral up a little...

Any other ideas or a fix for temp to get me to my friend in Baton Rouge? My Dad is tired of me using his garage! Help me to help him!

 

[candela]

What exactly is the problem? Just the fact that its not boosting much?

 

[Staged]

Idles fine. Boost is limited by something. Idle is smooth, and seems strong. When under a load, boost should be between 15 1/2 and 16 spooled, it is between 4 and 5 now.
The valve lashes were tapping EXTREMELY hard and the turbo may have lost oil when the filter spun off, I shut it down within 3 seconds of audible warning to full shut off of all power.
Checking the turbo in the morning. If good, then going after the catalytic convertor and the muffler. Otherwise, what is causing it to boost so low and have such a drag on it's power. It literally feels like it is pushing itself like crazy to go. Like I am dragging an extra 5000 pounds behind me. No check lights and the oil pressure is strong. Removed the balance shaft belt, but no balance shaft. Only internal work since issues has been the upgrade to 2nd gen lifters.
Knock Sensor? ECM in some sort of safety? Turbo bad? Cat? Anything else from someone that may have experience in this kind of immediate loss of power?

 

[GSXanimal]

Like you said check the turbo, and if the lifters are ticking that bad your knock sensor is definately the cause.

 

[Staged]

I tested the turbo out and am determining whether it is the wastegate, catalytic conv, or tubo now. The ticking is completely gone after upgrading to the 2nd gen lifters, can the knock sensor still be out?

 

[jrivard00]

I'd check the IC pipes for haha's just to rule them out before replacing the knock sensor.

 

[Staged]

You mean leaks?

 

[jrivard00]

Yes, a small leak won't be detectable when the car is idling. When the turbo spools up then it won't pressurize like it should and you run rich. Your car would bog down like you stated above. This could have occured in the hard run with the Mustang.

 

[Staged]

Makes good sense. How can I check this easily? I am with tools, even a stethascope.

 

[jrivard00]

Since you don't have an air compressor and adapter to pressurize your intake via the turbo inlet to determine a leak actually exists--I'd loosen the clamps around the pipes wiggle them a little and tighten them down again. You could even take them off for that matter and clean them with a rag with solvent while you inspect them for cracking and reinstall them.

 

[Staged]

I found that there was a nice hole in the rubber piping to the throttle body, and I tried to check my wastegate. I had an extra plunger from a T-3 (Won't fit) that seem to move pretty easily. And it was out all the way when disconnected. The one off the car was extremely hard to even move, and is in all the way instead. I have to stand on the edge and pull really hard on the bar to get it to move. I can just push the other one in real easy.

 

[jrivard00]

The wastegate actuator should be difficult to move and that is normal. But the hole in the rubber IC pipe would definetely be your problem with limited boost

 

[Staged]

I replaced the upper rubber pipe with one from my parts car. I will put everything else back together in the morning and give it a shot. I hope this is it. I guess I can try other things anyway. I will go ahead and gut the cat and remove the muffler (Who needs them in Texas anyway?).

 

[Staged]

Okay, everything is back together. I am missing something though, or I am having the weirdest problem.
Car starts and idles but again no boost. It DID come up a little. And under a load, it feels good to about 2000rpm, and then just drags until around 4500 when you can kind of feel the power come back. Like really bad lag. Now it doesn't get over 6lbs on boost.
I replaced the upper pipe with one that was good. I can't hear any whining or anything from the turbo, and no pinging or knocking. Just no real power. Right now I would lose to a Fiesta.
I am going to try the knock sensor next, but there doesn't seem to be any issues that it is causing. Maybe I should just replace the turbo. But want to be certian because I wanted to upgrade.
Anything else to try before that? Would the MAFS or boost sensor do this?
Thanks to everyone!

 

[miguels3000]

I dont know if I missed it but did you try disconecting the intake pipe and looking at youre turbo turbine wheel? squezze youre fingers in there and grab the tip and try moving it inward/outward and side by side. those symptomes sound like when my 14b went out, lucky you now you can replace it with a 16g or wichever you would prefer.

Good luck.............

 

[Staged]

I tried to check for shaft play and see if there was any there. There wasn't and so am confused. New info: I have NOT gutted the cat yet. I am doing that tomorrow. And I have NOT changed the knock sensor yet. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[Staged]

Okay, I disconnected the cat from the downpipe. No change. I am trying to convince my Grandmother that I need the BIG16 turbo now, and is there ANYTHING else I can check if she says no? MAFS? Maybe?
Thanks!

 

[Staged]

Re-doing the timing, checking the CAS, checking the position of the rear ba,ance shaft. Exhaust sounds great! Idle is good. will now boost to 11. Exhaust cam off by 2 teeth (Bishilvr explained how lucky I was while running it).
I think the exhaust being opened up may have released a bit more pressure since the valves were closing early on that side. Redoing the timing.
STILL wanting to blame the turbo and get the BIG16 for now. But will be really happy if all is okay after these adjustments.
Stay tuned.

 

[Staged]

Timing is perfect. CAS is good, no reversed plug wires. Balance shaft is on the correct rotation. Boost creeps up really slow.
I am leaning towards the MAFS. Any comments?

 

[AL92]

Low boost usually a function of blown turbo,super bad leaks between turbo and tb.I have leaking tb thottle seals but my turbo still hits like 20psi.I also have a leaking turbo but it still seems to hit 20psi.

I had some problems before with boost spiking/creeping when installed my n1 downpipe and catback but had lots of boost it would hit fuel cut though.Bigger injectors and pump solved that problem.

Wastegate could be not closing right.That could account for the low boost.I don't think knock cuts the boost out.I have had hgih knock counts and still had 19psi.

I say if its not wastegate or boost leak then time for new turbo.

 

[Staged]

I have changed the lifters and it still causes knock... not the worst thing...
I changed teh knock sensor, didn't fix the boost problem, so I changed the turbo! Didn't work! New gaskets, no cracks or leaks! Still running like a 1st gen RS! No power! No boost past 6lbs! What else could be wrong? TPS? What about fuel? It runs like it isn't running on all cylinders. Fire all the way across, and the compression is 144, 144, 144, 146.
PLEASE HELP!
Travis

 

[92 AWD ECLIPSE]

With the new turbo, are you using an internal or external wastegate? Because mine did the exact same thing, it felt like driving an n/a. What had happend was that the wastegate actuator rod was pushing the wastegate open, and not building boost. My solution was to put shims(washers) in between the actuator rod and turbo housing so that it would pull shut. It is an internal wastegate. Hope this helps, i can see you have been working on it for a while.

 

[hose101772]

What does the factory boost gauge say vs real boost gauge when its boosting?

 

[Staged]

Factory always is lower. When my car ran right, the factory would show around 12 and the AutoMeter would show 16. Now it shows about 0 compared to the AutoMeter showing 6.

 

[92 AWD ECLIPSE]

rear balance shaft has to be removed, if the front one is disabled.