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What Questions Do You Ask When Buying a Turbo DSM?

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bo0st

10+ Year Contributor
835
24
Jan 26, 2010
Phoenix, Arizona
What Questions Do You Ask When Buying a Turbo DSM? I'll be buying my first turbo dsm soon and I need to know, what to ask and look out for.

Does the BOV need to be venting or re-circulated for best performance? It's a first gen talon tsi w/16g turbo
 
1-Does it run and starts okey
2-Can I see papers for documentation purposes on maintenance and any major repairs, overhauls, MODS, et.al.
3-Any accidents where the body might be not straight, for if it isn't, thing will never handle the way it should.
4-how are the brakes-pads replaced or a brake job coming up.
5-does it shift okey, or am I going to be looking for transmission work in the future.
6-Axles have all their CV boots intact, or am I needing to replace axles due to torn CV boots.
7-How's the steering and front suspension-any loose ball joints, leaky struts, tie rods, et.al.
8-Tires, good conditon with decent tread, bent rims or cracked, dented alum wheels. Take it for a spin, tire/steering wheel shimmy and shudder, power steering working or grinding when turning(shot ball joints).
9-Can I drive it before I hand over the dough. (when you do, take it to a parking lot and do many figure 8 turns, circles, reverse circle 8's, hard braking,
10-ECU replaced recently, or am I looking to get a rebuilt one being it's the original ECU
11-Belt/BS job been done or needs the task completed

Just remember, it's still a USED CAR and a 22 yr OLD USED CAR at that - be it normally aspirated or turbo.


Good luck - DSM
 
^^ Those are all great suggestions. I think the big ones are maintenance records like timing belt, timing tensioner and water pump. And then find out what all is done to the car. It's hard to continue to mod, diagnose issues and tune if you don't know the current modifications are. Take you're time and wait for the perfect car - it will be worth it. Good luck!
 
1G or 2G?? I agree with DSM1G90 with all he stated, but I would also check rocker panels, strut towers for rust and check the engine for any leaks (valve cover/and block) and if possible maybe a compression check??
 
I would say it also depends on your goals for the car. Someone whos building a street car will look at things different than someone building a race car. Like someone stated above its an old car so if you want a daily driver that is reliable from the jump then that car will be a little harder to find(more so with a 1G). Anyway alot of good suggestions have been added above. Goodluck!
 
Yes always ask for a maintenance history. I also would ask how many owners owned the car as well. You also might want to consider a CarFax report on the car to see if it has a salvage title to see if it's been in a front end accident.
 
Has the car been adult owned/driven or not? is it the original engine? And as stated above hod old is the timing belt??
 
The main question, "is it a 6 or 7 bolt motor?"

if the answer is 7 bolt, and the car doesnt start without the clutch pressed down i would walk away,,, if the car DOES start without clutch you are much better off, but still take some hard left turns during test drive... if the clutch at any time sticks to the floor or doesnt pop up as it should walk AWAY!!!
 
"is it a 6 or 7 bolt motor?"
Easy to chek on this one: Get down on all fours, look underneath and look at the crank pulley and see the front of the oil pan.

If the front of the pan is smooth, it's a 6bolt, if the pan has the inward center crease due to the lip of the block is curved downward to accept the BS belt without removing the crank sprocket, it's the 7 bolt.

But, if the vehicle has a good maintence/repair/overhaul record along with it being the 7 bolt, a good chance no CW is present.
 
Here's one thing I learned the hardway. Check the fuel system. specifically the fuel pump hanger & fuel filter. are the flared fittings still present on the fuel feed? are the cheap steel lines kinked/cracked /broken? look to see if the feedline is hoseclamped, it shouldn't be.

replacing the fuel hanger can be a real hastle if you can't find another one or have welding equipment to modify one.

just take out the backseat, unscrew the 4 phillips screws on the passenger side and take a look,the filters next to the battery.
 
well make sure it runs and idles well, and be sure you test drive it before buying it and make sure it spools and holds boost well and there is no engine noise but these cars are (for the most part) easy to work on and if anything goes wrong the friendly people on here will have the answers for you
 
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