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What to Ask When Buying a Clutch

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thejollyrancher

10+ Year Contributor
307
13
Mar 31, 2012
calgary, AB, Canada
Hey everyone,

I had been shopping around for a few parts and I came across someone selling a Kevlar Stage 3 Clutch w/ Pressure Plate and a Fidenza flywheel for ~$200. I wasn't planning to buy a clutch just yet because my mods aren't very significant but this is a pretty good deal for a clutch thats run 1000Km.

Ive done some reading on Kevlar clutches and from what I've read its a popular product. However I still want a clearer picture before I spend $200. What kind of questions should I be asking when purchasing a clutch? I have read about how annoying high performance clutches can be in DD situations, but does anyone have experience driving a stage 3 Kevlar daily?
 
All clutches for the turbo 4g63 Dsm's are the same so you are good there.

However, all flywheels are not the same. You would want one for a 6-bolt AWD. It's Fidanza btw, not Fidenza.

I would also want to know if the clutch was broken in and how it was treated, why it was removed, what brand it was, etc.

Pedal Pressure (Difficulty Daily Driving it) depends on what brand the clutch is, what type of clutch it is, and what type of pressure plate it has.

Ex. A puck clutch is not great for a daily. A puck clutch with a sprung hub is better than an un-sprung for a daily. A 2600 pressure plate is worse for a daily than a 2100.
 
Another thing to think about is specs on the clutch your looking at and what it is rated to handle and what your plans on future mods for more power?

Don't fall for the "stages" thing, it really isn't a spec that tells anything. It's a marketing thing that relates only to the companies product offerings.
Take a look at the clutch offerings from ACT for a 4g63. ACT Clutch Kits & Flywheels | Advanced Clutch Technology Mitsubishi Evo 8/9/X |Subaru WRX/STI BRZ FRS | Dodge SRT4
Way more than a dozen different choices for a 46g3.
 
Ya it's a good deal but just walk away from it. Most ppl don't follow the manufacturer instructions for proper break in so you ll get chatter or vibration and it's not worth the risk. Lightened flywheels will rev faster but take a bit of skill to drive since they don't keep the inertia as much as the stock one.
 
$200 is very cheap for what you describe, considering it's all in good condition.

Just for some perspective, most NEW Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch Kits (depending on manufacturer) go for between $350-500.

Most flywheels go for upwards of $200.

Both of those prices vary though, which is why I said finding out the brand is very important. It's also let's you see how they were rated. I would pay less for a brand that wasn't reviewed very well than say, one from ACT or SBC.

But basically, you would probably be looking at over a 50% savings.

Although break in is important for a longer clutch life, it's still a great deal. Again though, as long as it's all in good condition.

If you do end up getting it, you will probably want to get the flywheel resurfaced and stepped before install. At least, I would HIGHLY recommend it. Most places won't turn clutches or pressure plates, so some good sanding of the surface to make sure it's not glazed would also be recommended.
 
To me pictures are a thousand words. I can tell by looking at the surfaces wether or not what i think the clutch has endured in its life. With that flywheel you can replace the friction surface if it does look bad. But make sure it is the correct flywheel for your car. Which if your profile is correct would be a 6 bolt awd flywheel.
 
Deciding a HP goal will determine what clutch to get. I would strongly suggest a lightweight Fidanza Flywheel because it will make rev faster and great. I had a 2600 ACT clutch, for me it was way to stiff for a DD and clunked around to much. However depending on the HP goals a 2600 might be needed. If you have a 300-350 HP goal i would go with a ACT 2100 and a Fidanza flywheel. Anymore than that i would opt for the ACT 2600.

I wish i could give advice on the kevlar clutchs but i have never used one before. I know the ACT and fidanza flywheel setup is very common among DSMer's and I myself love the feel. I also agree with the previous statement of staying away of any clutch that says "stage" because they usually are cheap knockoffs that mean nothing.

Since the transmission is kind of a pain to get out, i would do it right the first time and not mess with it later. Hope this helps.
 
Deciding a HP goal will determine what clutch to get. I would strongly suggest a lightweight Fidanza Flywheel because it will make rev faster and great. I had a 2600 ACT clutch, for me it was way to stiff for a DD and clunked around to much. However depending on the HP goals a 2600 might be needed. If you have a 300-350 HP goal i would go with a ACT 2100 and a Fidanza flywheel. Anymore than that i would opt for the ACT 2600.

I wish i could give advice on the kevlar clutchs but i have never used one before. I know the ACT and fidanza flywheel setup is very common among DSMer's and I myself love the feel. I also agree with the previous statement of staying away of any clutch that says "stage" because they usually are cheap knockoffs that mean nothing.

Since the transmission is kind of a pain to get out, i would do it right the first time and not mess with it later. Hope this helps.

Just FYI, almost every company that sells clutches use the "Stage" in their naming. Examples: SBC, Competition, SPEC, ACT, etc.

It's just a general blanket term that each individual company defines for faster referencing by the consumer.

It also makes newbies spend more money LOL.

But it's certainly not exclusive to knockoffs.
 
Sweet Thanks for the info. My goal is ~400 so I was planning on an ACT 2100 before I found the set I mentioned. I'll try to get some pictures posted as soon as he sends them, probably Monday.

And Thanks for the link to Tim's profile. I'll get in touch with him soon as well.
 
Must just be me but i've never heard a ACT clutch called a "stage" clutch. Most company's have different ways of rating there "stage" clutch differently. Just because it says stage 3 clutch does not make it any better than a stage 2 clutch by a different company. I guess that is what i was getting at with that statement.
 
I've run a lot of different clutches over the years. Mostly puck types. I can tell you that the drive ability isn't bad at all. You need to remember your driving a performance car and not a Cadillac. I've never ran a Kevlar, but it seems that they are sort of finicky clutches. If your looking to race your car at all, I can hands down say that the best opion for you is a xtd sprung 6 puck disc coupled with a good used factory mitsu pressureplate. That should be good for 120+mph traps.
 
Must just be me but i've never heard a ACT clutch called a "stage" clutch. Most company's have different ways of rating there "stage" clutch differently. Just because it says stage 3 clutch does not make it any better than a stage 2 clutch by a different company. I guess that is what i was getting at with that statement.

So you ignore all the others and focus only on one of my examples, ACT? You seem to be convinced they are the best...

Anyway, while they don't make a "Stage 3" for a Dsm that I'm away of, they do label some of their clutches as "Stage 3"

ACT: ACT Xtreme Twin Stage 3 Clutch w/ Flywheel (Mustang GT V8 2011) - Modern Automotive Performance

That said, I agree that a stage 2 from one company vs. a stage 3 from another is comparing apples to oranges. Hence why I said "It's just a general blanket term that each individual company defines for faster referencing by the consumer. " As in, a stage 1, 2, 3 from one company relates only to said company's clutches.

Also, while I do agree the XTD Stage 4 (ONLY stage 4) unsprung clutch is the best cheap clutch you can buy, I hated daily driving mine. It's loud and chattery and sucked in traffic. Still a great clutch, just be aware of the downsides of a puck.
 
I have only ran ACT clutchs and all my friends have too. I ive had mine for 5 years with no problems and my friends had theres for 7 years plus. I am not here to tell him my thoughts of other brands of clutchs i have never used before. Ive had exellent luck with the ACT brand and i know many DSMer's who would agree. This is my opinion on what clutch i like best, just like you have yours. I want the OP to consider other opinions because theres never a best brand. However with that being said i do believe ACT make super fine clutchs and i will stand behind that.

The transmission i have learned is not a place to cheap out on. It takes quite some labor to do a clutch install and I feel it should be done right the first time and not have to mess around with it again.

Giving info on clutchs i have never used before would be considered false info which is why i never mentioned other brand clutchs. Based on never having a single issue with any of my ACT clutchs nor my friends, i would love to bring a different Opinion in on the subject. They are great clutchs and priced fairly way considering how they have performed for me in the past.
 
My point was just refuting that only "knockoffs", as you put it, use the "Stage" terminology, and that even the one you keep harping on, ACT, uses it as well as just about every other major clutch manufacturer.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinions. I for one however, believe that while ACT was great in the past, they are now overpriced for what you get clutch wise. I do love their pressure plates though.
 
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