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DGajre777

DSM Wiseman
4,772
132
Jul 16, 2004
Orlando, Florida
This is in response to the numerous "what parts do I need" threads.

THIS LIST IS FOR PEOPLE LIKE ME WHO ARE ANAL ABOUT THEIR CAR AND WANT TO DO THINGS RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!

Some may not need everything on this list, especially if you have owned your car for a few years, but I believe in paying a little more for parts to save headache later when you have a car and don't know what parts on it have been replaced.

1) CLUTCH CHANGE

- Flywheel
- Clutch Pressure plate
- Clutch Disc
- Mitsubishi Throw out bearing
- Throw out bearing clip
- Flywheel bolts
- Pressure plate bolts
- Clutch Fork
- Clutch Pivot Ball
- Rear Main Oil Seal
- Release Boot
- Master Cylinder
- Slave Cylinder
- Stainless Steel Clutch line (available in 2 versions - short one that replaces the accumulator and a long one that replaces the entire line)
- Axle seals (Driver and passenger side)
- Transmission fluid
- Transfer case fluid (AWDs only)

Part numbers can be found here - http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=958

2) TIMING BELT CHANGE (60k service)

- Timing Belt
- Balance Shaft Belt
- Idler Pulley
- Tensioner Pulley
- Balance shaft belt pulley
- Timing Tensioner
- Waterpump
- Harmonic Balancer
- 5 seals (crank, oil pump, balance belt, 2 cam seals)
- Alternator belt
- Power steering belt and
- A/C Belt

Part numbers can be found here - http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/home.php?cat=865

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Hey, DGajre. Is there any way you can rank the items on that list in terms of importance. Maybe use a 5 "wrench" system, items that are important to change get 5 "wrenches" items that can wait (because they are easy to do later for instance) get 1 "wrench"? The reason I'm asking is because replacing so many parts are once may be a "diagnostic nightmare" if something goes wrong (to quote olmytsi). Just my tough.
Tom.
PS I can get you a nice "wrench" graphic if you'd like :)
 
Hey, DGajre. Is there any way you can rank the items on that list in terms of importance. Maybe use a 5 "wrench" system, items that are important to change get 5 "wrenches" items that can wait (because they are easy to do later for instance) get 1 "wrench"? The reason I'm asking is because replacing so many parts are once may be a "diagnostic nightmare" if something goes wrong (to quote olmytsi). Just my tought.
Tom.
PS I can get you a nice "wrench" graphic if you'd like :)

Level of importance will depend from one car to another and there is no way to do a 'wrench' system. One person will say replace 3 parts while another will say replace 6 and someone like me will say, hell replace everything that can break in the next 60k. Let's take an harmonic balance for example, that you chose to replace it at 60k like I did, or wait for it come apart at maybe 100k and then have to go in and change it at 100k instead of 120k. The problem with doing things twice is that you end up paying more, you get stuck with a car that breaks down - and people wonder why everyone says DSMs are unreliable.

If you have owned your car for a few years, you'll know which parts you need and which ones you don't need. If in doubt, you can always ask your local dealer on the "life expectancy" of a specific part. As for multiple parts being a diagnostic nightmare - it's not that hard to pin point a failing part, especially if it is new and not working the way it is supposed it - which is why all my parts are directly from a Mitsubishi dealer because of OEM quality.

The idea behind a complete list of parts is to save time, money and headache later, not to get stuck with a DSM and to have a reliable car. Some people don't know which parts to replace - this thread is intended to be informational.
 
I just replaced all of these this past weekend...

--> Upper radiator hose - MB906428
--> Lower radiator hose - MB906429
--> Heater hose kit - MR162454
--> Water return hose - MD112349
--> Oil cooler feed hose - MD112349
--> Oil cooler feed hose - MD301045
--> Oil cooler return hose - MD309661
--> Water feed hose - MD306415
--> TB feed hose - MD193577
--> TB return hose - MD195053
 
My timing belt tensioner has over 200K on it. . . Is there some way to test it? It has NEVER jumped timing w/ a decent belt. It has NEVER felt loose at any crank position.

But I agree. The "while your in there" bug is actually a good thing w/ a 10 year old + car.

The manual says to press the tip against something hard (metal) with 22-44lbs of force and measure the push rod movement. It should be less than 1mm.
 
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