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What is this car worth / Is this car a good deal?

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Devilsfutbol17

15+ Year Contributor
406
48
Jul 27, 2007
Bellingham, Washington
I found a 1996 Spyder GST for $4900. It is a 5-speed, 91,000 miles on it, white with black top, 17 inch rims. There is 80% tread left on the tires but the guy has a brand new never used set of tires for the car that is included in the price. He says the top doesn't leak, but it had a rip and was repaired, but he didn't like it, so he bought a brand new oem top that isn't installed and is included with the car. He says the interior is really nice, everything inside works, but you have to help the top up a little bit. He doesn't know if the timing belt has been replaced or not. It has a 3 inch cat back exhaust, 16G turbo, apexi intake and a greddy bov. He says it runs great and has no issues. He says he just wants to get rid of it because he doesn't drive it and its taking up space in his garage, which sounds good to me because he kept it garaged at least. he also said that the paint is good on it, no clear coat coming off, no body damage or dents. I'm going to check for crankwalk be looking at the clutch pedal when I turn left. I have been talking to the guy over the phone and I'm suppose to go drive for 4 hours to go and buy it if it checks out on Thursday. Does it sound good? Should I ask him or check for other things on it?
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Its definitely not worth anywhere near the asking price in my opinion. I would also be hesitant to buy anything whose owner claims "all mods were done 1000 miles ago", chances are thats not the case (people dont usually build cars to sell them at a loss after a handful of miles) .
If it was an AWD and had a t3 or t4 turbo set up, i would expect it to sell for between 6 and 7 grand, maybe a bit more if he could provide legit paperwork documenting the build of the trans and engine showing they are actually nearly new and what they are said to be.
Being a FWD i would expect it to be worth a bit less, if it was all in good condition with no rust and clean interior, id say around 6500 tops, maybe a little more if he can prove (or convince you that) it really has a low mileage built trans and everything else he listed.


Seems like one of those people hoping someone will bite, believing everything is almost brand new, and pay nearly full price for all the mods on the car. I have not seen a dsm go for 8 grand or higher in a long time, unless it falls into 1 of 2 categorys; a very fully built car with alot of high end brand name stuff on it (which this car is not), or a rare gem like an original owner 99 GSX with 26,000 miles (which this is also not).
 
All that work done and no progress/ engine bay pics in the description... I doubt the block is done. Also, to give you perspective, my 95 GST was $3500 with a new head job, and bottom end checked out within spec so they didnt mess with it.

Besides, why buy a car thats already been screwed with THAT much.
 
I looked at 2 95 tsi project cars today. I've never owned a Talon and have some questions.

Car #1 - Has a horrible interior/body but everything else seemed ok...

Car #2 - Was in great shape, body and interior were mint. It's been sitting in a garage for a couple years but it's automatic.....

I'm leaning towards car #2 for obvious reasons but my question is will it be relatively simple switching from automatic to manual? Or do I have some other problems to worry about. I've never done anything like this before in any of my cars...

Any advice would be awesome....I totally belong in the newbie section.
 
Go with the second one if the interior and body are in good shape. If you really wanted to you could 5 speed swap it but stick with the auto for a while you might like it.

Auto's are faster at the track and make good daily drivers as you are a little less likely to slam through the gears and keep your foot in the gas. I fond I drive slower in dd situations in an auto than I do in a 5 speed
 
Correction autos hold up longer so you can make more passes to get your times down which helps you be faster at the track :D

But you also stay in boost during shifts which can definitely make you faster at the track since nobody here races on the streets
 
No mention of milage on either makes it hard to advise you. The closer to stock a DSM is the less of someone else's mistakes you have to correct when you start working on the car.

Keith
 
My vote would be for the least rusted one.

If you are mechanically inclined (which I hope you are if you are interested in a DSM) then you can eventually smooth out any half-ass mods. Rust on the body is way more pain in the ass than a chinese 16G without a fuel controller.

But as everybody said, the more stock a DSM, the more reliable it will be for a new owner to deal with and you are actually spending time to make it faster, instead of taking a modded car and making it more reliable.

Without seeing anything, I would take the second choice as long as there was no mice in it.
 
Hey guys,
I'm back again. I'm looking at a 98 Eclipse GSX.
http://greenville.craigslist.org/cto/3173052014.html
It has a bad clutch, but also has a full 6 bolt swap done to it.
The paint and body is all good except spoiler has some clear coat fading.
All of the interior is there as well, with supposably no wrecks and frame is straight.
Has some minor surface rust on the struts and a little in the hatch.
The 6 bolt swap was done by him, not someone before him.
It has a hahn super 16 turbo with minor shaft play, said it smokes a little when in full boost, but doesn't when DD'ing.
It's running 15lbs as of now.
How much should I offer for it?
I'm wanting to trade my 2011 Macbook Air and around $1500
Do you guys think this is lowballing him or right on the money?
If I'm gonna spend 4-5k I'd rather just buy one that doesnt require work.
What is your all's opinion on the car?
Thanks
 
As boring as auto is...it is the proven drag setup.

If you do consider the car, though, let him put the clutch in first...unless you are ok with the possibility of having to do other maintenance.
 
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