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What is the correct Toe In?

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chiuchimu

10+ Year Contributor
94
3
Jun 25, 2008
Sylmar, California
97 Eclipse GS FWD nonTurbo

I'm going to replace my leaking steering rack(bought a used one). Since I'm replacing the rack, all measurements will change and I will have to get my front wheels alignment Thing is I just paid $60 half year ago for an alignment when my tie-rod went out. I don't want to pay again when my tires have only 1~2 years left in them. So, I want to do the alignment myself. At least get it good enough so I can drive my car for a year or two until I get new tires.

what is the correct toe -in for the front wheels in inches?


Also. I never changed a steering rack before. Any advice or tips?
 
A proper alignment is something 90% of us cant do.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have had old redneck mechanics say 1/8".

Don't know if that is really true, just what a lot of them say.

But, you should probably just go get the alignment.
 
I'm talking about toe-in not camber.

My brother used the tape measure method on his 71 Porsche 914. His repair manual actually had the correct measurements in it. His tires didn't wear out extra fast for doing it himself. I helped him do it. I held the tape measure at the edge of the tire while he measured. We took several measurements both leading and trailing edge.

Anyway, if I measure the distance of both leading side and trailing side of front wheels. then after installing steering rack, readjust the tie-rods to get the same measures, Isn't my alignment the same as before I did the work?
 
Theoretically yes you are correct you can adjust the tie rods and get them back to where they need to be and if you have the correct measurements you can indeed align the vehicle yourself. Its not the most efficient way but if your looking to save money it can do that. But this requires time patience and know how so if you haven't done it before on your own vehicle or aren't confident you can do it correctly pay the 50 bucks to do an alignment. Its A lot easier for some guy at a shop to read a computer screen than it is for you to get exact measurements with a tape. And when your talking about your alignment you want it as close to perfect as possible to prevent premature wear on everything not just tires.
 
The FSM says the front toe in should be 0 +- 3mm (0.12") on a 2G.

Thanks. It's good to have the correct numbers.


@TheMitsuGS-T I totally agree.

I realized in my case, I could measure my current alignment before I took out the steering rack. So I did, I installed the new Steering rack and put the Tie-rod assembly from my old rack. I measured the front and back and got the same measure as before. This makes a lot of sense because the steering racks are accurately built. I would be alarmed if the steering racks were different by more than +/- 1mm. Since I didn't 'untie' the tie-rods, I didn't change the alignment.

Just to be on the safe side. I got the alignment done anyway. My car went up on the lift, the guy started taking measurements with spercial tools. The final result was the shop told me my alignment was correct( My steering wheel was crooked so they aligned that by taking off the steering wheel and resetting it centered-something I didn't know I was supposed to do ). then they took my $60 bucks.

So, can you do the Toe-in alignment yourself. YES!
but I only suggest it if your tires have 1~3 years left in them(if the tires are new-get an alignment. If the tires are very old-get new tires and an alignment). Also, you have to be able to get an accurate measurement of your current toe-in now before working on your car so you can set it back. If you change the camber, then you need to take your car in for an alignment anyway(adjusting the camber changes toe-in). So if you understand what toe-in, Chamber are and how they affect the car and you now how much tolerance that is allowed, then you can restore your current toe-in very close to the accuracy of a shop. Any extra wear(a few months earlier) on tires that have only a year or so left is worth saving $60~75 dollars. but it's an individuals call to be 'cheap'.
 
if your front toe is already corrected and you gotta drive a long way to get an alignment you can get the rear toe close +/-.50* using a laser level and something flat to lay on the rim face and line them up with the front. Might save you some tire wear getting to the shop.
 
Toe in bad

Toe out good.

little bit of toe out increases turning response and can reduce understeer. Try same amount but negative. It should be beneficial.

goes great with a little bit of negitive camber too :)
 
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