What I believe is a boost gauge error?

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I think when I turned my MBC down all the way for my BLT it never got turned back up the psi pre BLT. I just turned it mostly out so I knew I wouldnt F anything up.

Well a friend wanted me to do a few pulls and it was embarrassing because the car wasnt putting me in my seat like a few days ago. The boost gauge read 10-11 PSI at 4500-6000 RPM but thats what it was BEFORE the BLT. So I went home and turned it up a few turns and it still reads 10-12 in boost... It does feel slightly quicker when turning it up, but doesnt feel as strong as pre blt. First spins, second is quick, but into third the car just loses its animation Everything is spooling and sounds normal, and gauge reads 10-12 still...

My MBC looks a lot like the squared one in the picture, except it is black and has a reddish orange cap.

I do still have two known boost leaks, one in the TB > TB Elbow gasket and my BOV gasket which I have parts ordered for, but even before the BLT with ALL of my boost leaks, it seemed a bit quicker going into third and 4th.

Also when I started a pull in third, around 4500 RPM and break boosting. I let off the break and pegged it and it honestly did not feel like the car was going anywhere... -_-

 

[undefined0000]

I think when I turned my MBC down all the way for my BLT it never got turned back up the psi pre BLT. I just turned it mostly out so I knew I wouldnt F anything up.

Well a friend wanted me to do a few pulls and it was embarrassing because the car wasnt putting me in my seat like a few days ago. The boost gauge read 10-11 PSI at 4500-6000 RPM but thats what it was BEFORE the BLT. So I went home and turned it up a few turns and it still reads 10-12 in boost... It does feel slightly quicker when turning it up, but doesnt feel as strong as pre blt. First spins, second is quick, but into third the car just loses its animation Everything is spooling and sounds normal, and gauge reads 10-12 still...

My MBC looks a lot like the squared one in the picture, except it is black and has a reddish orange cap.

I do still have two known boost leaks, one in the TB > TB Elbow gasket and my BOV gasket which I have parts ordered for, but even before the BLT with ALL of my boost leaks, it seemed a bit quicker going into third and 4th.

Also when I started a pull in third, around 4500 RPM and break boosting. I let off the break and pegged it and it honestly did not feel like the car was going anywhere... -_-

You're probably just killing the gaskets. The leaks at the injector seals were preventing too much pressure build-up in the system. Now that the pressure can stay in more, the air will find its way out of the gaskets more. Fix ALL of your boost leaks and come back. Boost leaks make these cars not make sense. Don't show off until you fix everything.

Do you have a wideband?

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Yeah youre right, but then again why is the car staying at 12 PSI after I physically turned the MBC up?

I do not believe I have a wideband. The only mods on the car is intake, full hard IC piping, a 1g BOV, and ngk wires (15 whp).

 

[undefined0000]

Yeah youre right, but then again why is the car staying at 12 PSI after I physically turned the MBC up?

I do not believe I have a wideband. The only mods on the car is intake, full hard IC piping, a 1g BOV, and ngk wires (15 whp).

OUCH! Take that MBC off if you don't have a wideband! Wideband will give you your AFRs. If you have leaks, the system won't be able to build proper pressure. Are you using the stock gauge or an aftermarket gauge? The stock gauge is basically just a guess since its BEFORE the turbo and bases the pressure on how much air the turbine is moving.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

OUCH! Take that MBC off if you don't have a wideband! Wideband will give you your AFRs. If you have leaks, the system won't be able to build proper pressure. Are you using the stock gauge or an aftermarket gauge? The stock gauge is basically just a guess since its BEFORE the turbo and bases the pressure on how much air the turbine is moving.

It is an aftermarket boost gauge obv if I know that it is maintaining a reading of 10-12 psi

And I do not think I need a wideband. My brother is basically building mine and my little brothers gst and he said we both need MBC soon after maintenance, and has never mentioned anything about a wideband, I'll have to ask him.

Mind explaining with a wide band is?

 

[destruckeclipse]

A wideband is used to monitor your Air to Fuel mixture (AFR's) so you can tune the car properly. With your mods I don't know if you really "need" a MBC, as well as the stock T-25 turbo will not be very efficient beyond 15psi or so, that seems to be where most people like to keep it.

If you still have boost leaks, that will definitely effect the feeling. The BLT might have made them worse if they were already pretty bad keeping it pressurized for a long period like that so now you just need to fix them and check then. I wouldn't mark the boost gauge as a problem till you fix your leaks.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

A wideband is used to monitor your Air to Fuel mixture (AFR's) so you can tune the car properly. With your mods I don't know if you really "need" a MBC, as well as the stock T-25 turbo will not be very efficient beyond 15psi or so, that seems to be where most people like to keep it.

If you still have boost leaks, that will definitely effect the feeling. The BLT might have made them worse if they were already pretty bad keeping it pressurized for a long period like that so now you just need to fix them and check then. I wouldn't mark the boost gauge as a problem till you fix your leaks.

Aye aye cap'n, I'm on the hunt for them.

I have the gaskets in the mail on the way to my house for the two curren known leaks then going to retest. Thanks for the help, I thought my car had gone slow on me

 

[undefined0000]

It is an aftermarket boost gauge obv if I know that it is maintaining a reading of 10-12 psi

And I do not think I need a wideband. My brother is basically building mine and my little brothers gst and he said we both need MBC soon after maintenance, and has never mentioned anything about a wideband, I'll have to ask him.

Mind explaining with a wide band is?

AND THAT is why people say DSMs are junk. You can kill your car that way. A wideband is a MUST for anyone that has a boosted vehicle imo. Even if you're stock. It helps a ton with identifying issues,and is REQUIRED for tuning. Check your gauge for leaks. I awkwardly did this by just sucking on the line going to the boost gauge and plugging it with my tongue to see if it held the pressure. Oh so very awkward to type that, but it works!

 

[dsmcurse]

Wow, early you flamed a dude for buying a DSM with a bodykit but you don't even know what a wide band oxygen sensor is? Talkin all that S yesterday is what made your car go to hell. That's also called "karma"

Besides the point tho, you did man up and tell that cat sorry so...

Check out your boost referance hoses from your compressor cover to your MBC to your wastegate. If they are installed backwards the MBC will not work at all. Did you disconnect any of that when doin the BLT?

Just so you know for next time, you don't have to tune down or mess with your boost controll setting to do a BLT. You can't hurt nothin, its plenty safe.

99% of MBC's hook up like this, very very bottom of the MBC port hooks up to your turbos compressor cover, the upper port (usually pokes out a 90* angle) then goes to your wastegate. If you had a external wastegate that has two ports on the hat it would go to the bottom port. But I know your probably rockin a stock turbo so its internal gate and only has one port. Double check that the hoses are correct

Goodluck man

 

[undefined0000]

There was actually a thread on here about how to hook up a MBC and a guy posted a great pic:

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[dsmcurse]

Compressor cover to bottom port, upper port to wastgate nipple. Done. Double check that you have it correct. The diagram posted above was very thoughtfull but is described kinda funky. Thanks for the picture post tho man. I see you on here all the time and that teal green '92 talon reminds me of my very first DSM I ever got like 12 or 13 years ago. Always see you on the forums but have never really said "what's up man"

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Aww come on dude just because idk what a wideband is doesn't mean I can't identify a riced out dsm -_-.

 

[undefined0000]

Lol, HI! This is my third car and first DSM / 4 cylinder. I have no life outside of work, so I am just on here learning/helping .

Aww come on dude just because idk what a wideband is doesn't mean I can't identify a riced out dsm -_-.

Leave that alone. Just learn from us. Wideband is probably the most important (and coolest) gauge you'll get. Do some reading on it. Just the basics of it;

You are probably aware of your normal O2 sensor, which is what a wideband is, just different. The stock O2 sensor gives a reading basically that maxes out at 1volt (.2 - .8) technically. This is good for doing fuel trims and closed loop, but not good for checking AFRs.

Wideband has a range of 5 volts. 5x the range means more accurate readings. (Ever do significant figures in chemistry class? same concept)

That's pretty much the basics. It will give you a reading between 10 and 19 usually. Optimal afr is 14.7:1, its where the gas burns the hottest and most effectively. Anything higher than 14.7 on the gauge is lean, anything less is rich.

Lean: Can cause engine damage (burn pistons) and higher EGTs, righer mixtures actually yield for lower EGTs. You can also get detonation if you're too lean under boost.

Rich: Wastes gas and can wash out piston rings.

Mitsubishi gives us "safe" fuel maps, so if you're on a stock ecu like me, you'll see the gauge go to VERY rich when you start hitting boost, like 10:1 rich. People like to tune for 11:1.

What makes the wideband cool is that it moves A LOT. On my current setup, when I first hit the gas, it jumps lean quick and goes back to stoich (14.7) and when I get into boost, starts to head to 10. and when you let go, it goes all the way back to lean and to stoich.

GET ONE. You can go to the exhaust shop to get it put on, mine charged $30 to weld the bung on and just let me put the sensor in while the car was on the lift.

 

[dsmcurse]

Very good info man. Soundin like a wiseman already.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

So I need to purchase a wide band and a bung to put it in my exhaust?


And how do I hook a gauge up to that /scratchhead

ive never seen a gauge for this on any dsms

 

[undefined0000]

Lol, just gotta slap another 30 years of DSM experience and I'm set!

So I need to purchase a wide band and a bung to put it in my exhaust?


And how do I hook a gauge up to that /scratchhead

ive never seen a gauge for this on any dsms

I suggest the UEGO, its what I have, you literally just plug the gauge in, no calibration or anything. It comes with the bung too. The closer to the stock 02 location, the better. Def before the flex pipe, because that can easily leak exhaust.

Here's a vid of it on my setup, mind you, I'm running LEAN because I unknowingly have/had 390 injectors on a M/T ecu, which expects 450cc, got those in the mail thank goodness.

Don't mind me blabbering away

Driving / Showing AFRs - YouTube

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

Where do you feed the wire form your exhaust to your cabin?

 

[crash89]

So I need to purchase a wide band and a bung to put it in my exhaust?


And how do I hook a gauge up to that /scratchhead

ive never seen a gauge for this on any dsms

The gauge comes with the wideband sensor. You'll want to weld your bung BEFORE you cat convertor but at least 18" after your turbine housing. Where you feed the wires into the cabin is really up to you. My wideband replaced my rear o2 sensor since I dont have a cat. Then I just ran the wires through the floor where the rear o2 sensor ran. Heres the one I bought and I love it! AEM Gauge-Type Wideband UEGO Controller - Modern Automotive Performance Also heres an install thread for ya http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-electrical-wiring/383190-1g-2g-aem-uego-wiring.html

Now, being basically stock is all fine and dandy. But when you start adding things like a MBC and turning it up on a stock fuel system things are going to go bad pretty quick.. A few psi is just fine. but 15 psi MAX on a stock fuel system, or until you buy a means of logging and tuning. Do some more reading and take a look in here. Tech Guide: 2G 4G63t Upgrades - DSMtuners I really dont agree with it as I believe logging/tuning software should be somewhere near the top. Among a few other changes. Good luck man

 

[undefined0000]

Where do you feed the wire form your exhaust to your cabin?

mine comes through the engine bay along side the door. the uego wire is long as hell

 

[92AWDHX40]

Turning up the boost invest in a 200 dollar engine saver, that would be one of the first things to get, next to a good way to tune your car.

 

[Tyeler18]

There was actually a thread on here about how to hook up a MBC and a guy posted a great pic:

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Just an FYI, that diagram is only for bleed style MBC's. If you try and do that with a real* MBC (ie Hallman) it won't work properly.

Lol, just gotta slap another 30 years of DSM experience and I'm set!



I suggest the UEGO, its what I have, you literally just plug the gauge in, no calibration or anything. It comes with the bung too. The closer to the stock 02 location, the better. Def before the flex pipe, because that can easily leak exhaust.

Here's a vid of it on my setup, mind you, I'm running LEAN because I unknowingly have/had 390 injectors on a M/T ecu, which expects 450cc, got those in the mail thank goodness.

Don't mind me blabbering away

Driving / Showing AFRs - YouTube

I personally will recommend against the UEGO. I've used the UEGO, LC-1, Zetroinix, and MTX-L. The MTX-L is by FAR the best I've used. The UEGO has issues logging with both Evoscan and Ecmlink. The LC-1 has calibration issues. The Zetrionix is way to expensive. The MTX-L is $170 brand new and is the updated version of the LC-1. The gauge itself is very nice and easy to read, it doesn't have the logging issues the UEGO has, and it's an innovate. If you're going to spend the money for a UEGO, step up to the MTX-L.

 

[undefined0000]

Hm, I'll have to look into that. I was planning on using the UEGO for logging once I got LINK. I read nothing but great stuff about it all over everywhere.

 

[Tyeler18]

May want to read again. It's annoying trying to get it to log correctly.

Also, can't remember if the UEGO has narrowband simulation. The MTX-L will do narrowband simulation and can still log wideband outputs, so you can put it in the front o2 location and not have to run a factory o2 sensor.

 

[undefined0000]

May want to read again. It's annoying trying to get it to log correctly.

Also, can't remember if the UEGO has narrowband simulation. The MTX-L will do narrowband simulation and can still log wideband outputs, so you can put it in the front o2 location and not have to run a factory o2 sensor.

I know there's a way to simulate narrowband, but not sure about simultaneous wideband output. Theres a bunch of features on it that I won't be able to use for a while, thanks for the heads up!

 

[SlickPyro]

I can't get my uego to log properly with tunerpro (with ostrich 2.0) either, I've tried a few formulas in the program to get it to work that work out perfect mathematically but doesn't work. It's a great gauge but getting it to log properly is tough. I plan on switching to mtx-l too cause I know someone that has it log just fine, and it has a greater readout range too over the aem.