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What could cause a rev limit?

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tonetone

10+ Year Contributor
57
0
Sep 23, 2008
madison heights, Michigan
the ecu is a standalone and is set to 7500rpm compression reads like this 160 160 170 155 now the problem is a few days ago i was rev limited to 3k and its a got a sluggish climb to the 3k and now it wont rev past 1.5k samething sluggish build up to 1.5k

the standalone ecu is programed thru megasquirt any help would be great
 
Reset the ECU. It might be in Limp Mode. The ECU will go in Limp Mode if it fears something really bad might happen. I would try that then check back. Along with sensors and fuses & hoses & such.
 
Check to see if your ignition wires are arc-ing, also check to make sure you have the proper copper NGK plugs.
 
BOOOOST leak sounds like you poped a pipe off... check all your pipes accualy grab them and move them to make sure their all still conected
 
ive checked for boost leak none the ecu is good...could it be the throttle position sensor? i got ngk bpr7 plugs it a standalone ecu it cant go in limp mode
 
u say its a standalone how was your car tuned you have a mas or is it speed density or wat?

how hard is it to type a y and o on you? or what about the H in what?

Good lord this isn't the ghetto is a forum and I feel like i'm reading text messages from my retarted friends when I see crap like that.
 
Hmm good point it uses a map instead of maf or mas. (manifold absolute pressure) Now if my exhaust mani gasket was leaking it cause the rev limit and the car running rich?
 
well since your using a map sensor that gets rid of that idea and an exhaust leak wouldent have that big of an impact. are there any other problems like back fireing. maybe your ignition timeing is all messed up. or maybe a bad map sensor. are you getting correct reading from you map sensor
 
its a pretty bad mani leak and currently i have blue smoke coming from the tail pipe...thats normal becuase of how rich im running?

and when we sent the readings to megasquirt forums they said everything looked good
 
its a pretty bad mani leak and currently i have blue smoke coming from the tail pipe...thats normal becuase of how rich im running?

and when we sent the readings to megasquirt forums they said everything looked good

Blue smoke is not running which, black smoke is. I think your burning coolant or something. White smoke is burning oil... correct me if I'm wrong.

Get a better gasket & fix all leaks, test those sensors, report back after that.
 
how hard is it to type a y and o on you? or what about the H in what?

Good lord this isn't the ghetto is a forum and I feel like i'm reading text messages from my retarted friends when I see crap like that.

I accualy did type but it didnt show up I AM ####ING SORRY FOR THE DAMN MISTAKE DICK screw the thread an just talk shit cool man #### you
 
Blue smoke is not running which, black smoke is. I think your burning coolant or something. White smoke is burning oil... correct me if I'm wrong.

Usually, it's:

Black smoke or soot = running rich
Bluish smoke = burning oil
White smoke = burning coolant, or condensation.

I accualy did type but it didnt show up I AM ####ING SORRY FOR THE DAMN MISTAKE DICK screw the thread an just talk shit cool man #### you

You should get a new keyboard, because it really messed with you in this post also:

BOOOOST leak, sounds like you popped a pipe off... Check all your pipes; actually grab them and move them to make sure they're all still connected.

LOL
 
what could be causing the oil to burn? and the previous owner has 5w 30 should i switch to 10w30? before u post something about the motor remeber i getting basically 160 across all cylinders
 
Check inside your intercooler pipes for oil. Could be the turbo.

we checked inside turbo pipes all clean...The the crankshaft bolt came out so the harmonic balncer shifted out might have found the problem...We believe it could also be a bad cas. the smoke now looks more blackish.I know the car is running pretty rich too on the wideband its running low 11's to high 11's...But no work will be done until sunday ill keep u guys posted and thx for all the responces.
 
11:1 AFR is terribly rich for anything not under WOT boost.

Cruise and idle should be ~14.7:1

Upon entering boost it should start to dip down into the richer side gradually working its way with high/max boost at around 11:1 .
 
just found out the car has a bent valve. You guys think that has been causing all my problems?
 
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