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What chip do I use for this burner

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cano86

15+ Year Contributor
806
26
Jun 30, 2008
Hartford, Connecticut
Sorry for probably a stupid question but here it goes if am going to use (The BURN1 Flash-n-Burn USB-Based Chip Programmer [Model: BURN1]) Do I use the chip in my ECU or do I have to buy a specific chip please help me on this one thanks.

The Burn1 is a revolutionary device that was designed with the automotive enthusiast in mind. it supports the most popular chips found in ECUs in the late 80s and early 90’s.

Before the Burn1 was developed, there were only a handful of chip burners known to be compatible with these chips. These burners were usually not cost-effective, used outdated PC interfaces like a parallel Printer port. They also required external power supplies, so forget burning on the fly. Examples include the $160 Pocket Programmer II.

The Burn1 was revolutionary with its simple USB interface that provided all power to the unit. An internal DC voltage step-up circuit is used to provide the high erase voltage required on certain chips.

The latest generation of the Burn1 is the Burn2. It has the same same command set and features as the Burn1 but has a smaller size.
 

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I'm not sure off the top of my head what the number for the chips are (because it's 3 in the morning) but you can order the chips from Moates directly. I'll get the info for you when I get up tomorrow, just send me a PM and remind me.
 
I have a serial eprom burner that can do a wide range of different size chips that I got from a company that went out of business. They printed magazines and would use the burners to change the settings for the machines. Not too interested in doing chips for cars though. I used it one time to copy a chip for a guy who had some how received one from a cop car so he claims but nothing was ever done with the chip.
 
OP: To use a chip in our cars you need an EPROM ECU. It has an eprom chip already soldered into the board, in the lower right corner, from the factory. Generally, there is a capital "E" in the serial number on the outside of the ECU, but the only way to be sure is to open it up and check. These are generation specific, and you might get lucky with your '95, as that seems to be the only year that they were installed in 2g's. If you don't have one, you'll need one to use the chip. You can find them for sale relatively easily, for around $250. You will need to have the chip unsoldered, and a socket soldered in it's place, so that you can use a custom chip. As far as I know, there is no way to flash the factory chip while it's on the board.

Merely burning a new chip will NOT net you any gains in performance, as they do with some other cars. The chip burn for our cars is useful in compensating for hardware changes, such as larger injectors, remapping the airflow and timing settings, and doing a few other things. I have one in my car from Keydiver, and it's great. But don't expect to burn new performance onto your car.

Search this site for "eprom ecu" and you'll find days of reading on the subject.
 
Thats why I asked because my DSM has an EPROM ECU. So then that means if I get that burner I could use it,Right?

Once the ECU is socketed you will be able to make chips using that programmer that will work in the ECU assuming you learn how to make the changes and learn how to use the programmer. You will have the tools.
 
Wtill need to get socketed to use dsm link, and so cano can burn me chips got it... I know dsm link does it but don't have the money. Any cheaper ways steve???

The EPROM in a factory EPROM ECU is soldered to the board. That has to be removed and a socket installed before you can plug anything in it's place.
 
SST-27SF512 are the chips that I use. We got them in a pack of 5 off EBAY for $25. Only really need one since they are electronically erasable. Also if you order the BURN1 off of Moates site you will get their new BURN2 since the old one is discontinued. It is pretty much the same thing but in a smaller package.

Here's an image of a chip and socket:

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I would get a zif socket while you are at it that way while you are doing the majority of the tuning you don't have to pry the chip out and risk damaging some pins. All you do is lift a lever and lift the chip out. Really easy. Steve will tell you that they don't offer the best grip to keep the chip in place. And he's right but for the little while you are tuning is a really easy way to get chips in and out safely.

To use: Put in your machined socket then plug in the zif. Then put your chip in the zif. When you are done tuning pull the zif out and plug the chip into the machined socket.

zif looks like this:

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You want to use a machine pin socket on an ECU.

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The standard wiper sockets are not designed for use where vibration is present.
It used to be common place to reseat the chips when they would walk out of the cheap sockets to fix computers.
 

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Thank you sir...Now Where can I get one of these sockets at? I am certified to do any kind of wiring on a vehicle. But Do I trust myself to do it...hell No, but if I mess it it up..It's my ECU right...
 
OP: To use a chip in our cars you need an EPROM ECU. It has an eprom chip already soldered into the board, in the lower right corner, from the factory. Generally, there is a capital "E" in the serial number on the outside of the ECU, but the only way to be sure is to open it up and check. These are generation specific, and you might get lucky with your '95, as that seems to be the only year that they were installed in 2g's. If you don't have one, you'll need one to use the chip. You can find them for sale relatively easily, for around $250. You will need to have the chip unsoldered, and a socket soldered in it's place, so that you can use a custom chip. As far as I know, there is no way to flash the factory chip while it's on the board.

Merely burning a new chip will NOT net you any gains in performance, as they do with some other cars. The chip burn for our cars is useful in compensating for hardware changes, such as larger injectors, remapping the airflow and timing settings, and doing a few other things. I have one in my car from Keydiver, and it's great. But don't expect to burn new performance onto your car.

Search this site for "eprom ecu" and you'll find days of reading on the subject.

This is not true. The factory maps are VERY rich and you can gain 10-15 horsepower with a virgin factory car just by leaning it out. The timing is conservative for the factory powerlevel too. And we all know there are gains forthemostpart with a more aggressive timing curve. Burning a rom image with tweeked timing and fuel curves most certainly increase power. Just as much as leaning out with an safc with a stock setup will net more power because it dials out the factory flood of fuel and puts you on a more aggressive timing map at the same time.
 
I apologize for the incorrect information. I was thinking, but not typing, about larger gains seen in other cars. My friend's Audi for instance, which can benefit from a nothing more than a reflash, to the "tune" of 40-50hp. That's a pretty good sized gain. I probably wouldn't bother with an eprom swap in a DSM for only 10-15hp, but that's just me personally, and I don't burn my own chips. If I did, I'd know that I could start there and not have to keep paying to have the chip reburned as I added new parts, as the OP will be able to. My intention was to suggest that if you are going to do it, might as well do it in conjunction with other bolt on mods, like injectors, etc, that will net much larger increases in power.

Brain>typing. Again, I apologize.
 
Well many other boosted cars have rom images flashed that can alter the control of the stock BCS. This would make nice gains :) . I do agree that it probably wouldn't be worth the $300 for an eprom ecu and $100+ for the burning equipment just for that gain 20hp gain. . .

. . . Now if you've found that you already have an eprom ecu in your car, i'd think it would be worth it to most.
 
Thank you sir...Now Where can I get one of these sockets at? I am certified to do any kind of wiring on a vehicle. But Do I trust myself to do it...hell No, but if I mess it it up..It's my ECU right...

Are you good at soldering? It's really not too hard. The hardest part is getting the old chip out without damaging the board any. Get some desoldering braid and let that soak up the old solder. Make sure to get it off of both sides. Once you get the chip out wick up any remaining solder from the holes. This whole process took me about 45 minutes. Then, clean the board off. Now, set your socket in and solder from the underside making sure you have something holding the socket from falling out. It doesn't take much solder but you need to make sure to get a good connection on both sides of the board. All total it took about an hour to do the whole thing. Easiest part is soldering it in. Good luck!! :thumb:
 
Using rosin core solder correct?? I can solder yes. As to how well Ive done many a solder jobs, but most just on wiring.. But soldering on an ecu, I have done none. So don't know if I should trust myself.
 
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