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what are some things to Look out for when buying a 2G DSM or 1G

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Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust! Rust!
 
Strut tower rust, "Needs tlc", "Needs new clutch" (To me that sometimes means he/she finally burned out the clutch from driving like a dipstick and wants to sell it) and a couple more things i can't think of right now. :aha:
 
Rust is a big one. Check the entire car for rust, including under side skirts, near the rear window, and the entire underbody. Also do the magnet test. Check for shotty "upgrades" too. If they used cheap parts to upgrade it, it will probably break down often.
 
on any eclipse, peeling paint.

especially if its black. i dont have this problem but tons of other black eclipses do. it will get worse and worse and then eventually the body will have rust. rust is terrible for these cars in particular.

check the calipers/pads/suspension and all that. if its rusty or old looking, walk away! check how close the caliper is to the rotor also....

if the engine is really dirty, dont buy it. most likely it was a neglected car and all of the main components are failing and will need replacement. turbo or not, if these engines are ignored for long amounts of time, it'll break down with the quickness.
 
i was positive that, when coming into this post i would've seen at least one person put to look for "rust" but i guess i'm the only one.. ;)

btw; im sure if you would'ov searched, you would have came across this question..
Actually; i see it quick alot every WEEK.


Listen for any ticks or knocks..
rev the motor up to around 2k.. ;) (check them rod bearings)
Check the dipstick and see what the oil looks like.. (tell alot about the owner and how he kept the car)
Test Drive it and go thru every gear..

Mainly rust though ;)
 
I would check for:

rust
cleanliness of motor
idle
exhaust
belts and hoses
be weary of new tires as you would used (found this out the hard way)
any shaking when driving
brake system and rotors
bent rims/dryrot on tires
look down the side of the car and see if it looks ok (possible wreck)
camber of the rear tires (excessive may be worn springs/suspension
how shifter shifts (will be notchy but, hard if driven hard too)
receipts of all work done if possible over the time owned
leaks in the door/trunk
trunk shocks always worn and dont hold up trunk
overheating marks (if a turbo) just above the ex manifold on the hood
clutch engagement and where (lower, usually the worse the clutch is)
power windows (worn/broken clips) window tilts forward and hangs up


cannot think of much else at the moment
 
Rust, ANY modification (if it has any, you know it's most likely been abused) If it looks too dirty, and for that matter, if it looks too clean(if it looks like its brand new, chances are they are covering something up.)

And above all else, do NOT fall for the classic DSM seller conversation:

Seller: As you see its a very clean car.
You: Yeah she is, but what is this oil leak about?
Seller: Oil leak? That's not an oil leak, that's just sweat from the horsepower!
You: Awwwww Snap!
 
Wow 3 months and you gave up on your 420A hu? Man you 4g guys work fast. Haha J/K the 420A isn't for the weak at heart. I would say if you are looking at a gst/x and say to yourself "man... that car could be in the fast and furious movies!" then don't buy it. If the timing belt is broken don't buy it. If Paul Walker is selling it don't buy it. Last but not least... if the seller says "I had to splice something into the wiring harness." then avoid it. Good luck with the 4g63!
 
I live in New England, its impossible to find a 20 year old car without any rust. Try to find out when the last time the timing belt was replaced.
 
bypass valve venting to atmosphere... good sign the previous owner didn't really know/care about what he was doing.
 
Look for rust. I didnt look mine over well enough and now im stuck with a rotted chassis. Also take a look at the frame rails toward the front of the car. Uninformed people(idiots!) dont use the jack points and smash the frame rails and dent the chassis! Be careful and look it over good!!!!
 
If its a 1st gen, find out if it's a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt, do this by checking the oil pan...i dont remember exactly which means which but i know their should be a protrusion or a dent in the pan which signifies if its a 6 or 7 bolt motor....can somebody else chime in a specify which means which? i dont remember exactly
 
If its a 1st gen, find out if it's a 6 bolt or a 7 bolt, do this by checking the oil pan...i dont remember exactly which means which but i know their should be a protrusion or a dent in the pan which signifies if its a 6 or 7 bolt motor....can somebody else chime in a specify which means which? i dont remember exactly
Typically the 1ga's have the 6 bolt.(90-91) with 3 bolt rear except they switched halfway during the year to the 4 bolt
92-94 1gbs have the early 7 bolt with the 4 bolt rear
95-98 have the the late 7 bolt
99's have the revised 7 bolt that is "uncrankwalkable".

Typically the 4 bolt 6 bolt is what people look for. And usually if its unspecified by the seller its not swapped.

If a swap is specified here you go just to be safe:How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart


bypass valve venting to atmosphere... good sign the previous owner didn't really know/care about what he was doing.

I guess its the same concept as a bov. Lols.
 
Typically the 1ga's have the 6 bolt.(90-91) with 3 bolt rear except they switched halfway during the year to the 4 bolt
92-94 1gbs have the early 7 bolt with the 4 bolt rear
95-98 have the the late 7 bolt
99's have the revised 7 bolt that is "uncrankwalkable".

Typically the 4 bolt 6 bolt is what people look for. And usually if its unspecified by the seller its not swapped.

If a swap is specified here you go just to be safe:How to quickly tell a 6bolt and 7bolt engine apart




I guess its the same concept as a bov. Lols.


Im new to the DSM scene but if that's the case why do i always see people buying 6 bolt motors instead of the 99's "uncrankwalkable" motors? I heard that Mitsubishi wasn't even able to figure out why most of them did crankwalk in the first place. Again if answered sorry im new to this!
 
In addition to rust, I'd take a quick peek under the dash and look for a mess of poorly installed wiring. That means bare wires, packing tape, spaghetti wiring and generally just lack of attention to detail. If they half-ass wiring, you can bet that they half-assed everything else on the car.
 
and above all else, do not fall for the classic dsm seller conversation:

Seller: As you see its a very clean car.
You: Yeah she is, but what is this oil leak about?
Seller: Oil leak? That's not an oil leak, that's just sweat from the horsepower!
You: Awwwww snap!

roflroflrofl
 
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