The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Well Im done with the Talon

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

wickedz

10+ Year Contributor
736
5
Dec 12, 2009
Madison, Wisconsin
Yup after changing out the timing belt, we noticed a BSE which is cool, but when taking off the crank pulley, the crank had a little bit of slop. JuGs grabbed the pulley and he was able to push and pull the crank about 1/8th inch and you could hear it clicking. Im guessing I bought a car with crankwalk, which would mean maybe thats why it sucks for power? Im done with the car for a LONGGGGGG time, because theres no way in hell I could ever afford a motor at this point.
 
Im not like done done with it, just saying for right now, because I literally broke myself with the upgrades and mods I did already. I have only enjoyed maybe 20 miles on this car, and then SLAMMED on all the maintenance procedures. Sucks this always happens to me
 
The design of the split thrust bearing is thought to be because of all the warranty claims of the single peice thrust.. The 6 bolt has a beefier rod so that might have something to do with it.. Im just going off what I have collected and it seems that pre split thrust bearing 2g blocks crankwalk more than any other 4g63 and this is also a evo3 problem as well.. When you press the clutch pedal down it pushes the clutch fork onto the PP and that pressure causes the crank to slide toward the timing belt side of the block.. That pressure seems to cause the oil film in that area to wear off and start to damage that bearing.. As that bearing gains tolerance it starts to move more and more.. It seems like it can move to the point wehere it hits the Crank angle sensor.. I remember a post that some guy added a radius/ angle to the thrust bearing to allow a little clearance so when the crank turns it doesn't scrape the oil off.. I think its a weird theory but who knows.. My 7 bolt is still running strong after 123k...
 
Well I guess we had the wrong idea on the bolt. We thought the dent in the pan was a 6 bolt, but I guess acording to VFAQ I have the 7 bolt
 
Yes the 6 bolt was my fault. I had them backwards. Viper it is in n out movment there for like u said ## self its CW. Paul I know ## car has only 99k. What I was sayin abot the extra 34k is CW usally happend before 65k so if it had been caught when it first started to walk u could of gottem by with just new bearings. But the extra 34k put on the motor just trashed the block pretty much unrepairable.
 
Yes the 6 bolt was my fault. I had them backwards. Viper it is in n out movment there for like u said ## self its CW. Paul I know ## car has only 99k. What I was sayin abot the extra 34k is CW usally happend before 65k so if it had been caught when it first started to walk u could of gottem by with just new bearings. But the extra 34k put on the motor just trashed the block pretty much unrepairable.

But you really dont know, until we get into the block. Im in process on a good deal for a hookup. I maybe able to get my car running soon
 
well keep me informed man. at the end of this comming week I wont be able to do any thing. Wife and father inlaw are going out of start do to family issues so Im stuck home watching the kids. So it maybe be a few weeks until I can do any thing again.
 
UPDATE:

I started taking it all apart today. Last time I did this, I threw all the bolts and nuts in one bucket, but I LEARNED my lesson. That was almost impossible last time to put back together. This time I did baggies and labled everything. I noticed alot of stuff that is suppose to have gaskets or O rings, didnt have anything LOL. Im so glad Im taking care of this, because this car was abused.

How hard is it to detach the auto tranny from the block? This is my first auto, so im excited to do this.
 
update as of tonite LOL

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Good job man. Keep up the work. To remove the block take the few bolts holding the inspection plate on(that located by the oil apn and tranny where they meet under the car). Then unbolt the 4 bolts on the flywheel holding the flex plate on. After that unbolted have the cherry picker attached to the block. Take the center bolts out og the front and rear tranny mount jack the end of the tranny up just a hair. Start removint all the bolt holding the block to the tranny which should be like 4 bolts if starter is already out. Now you should be able to break the block free from the tranny. after you get it broke free lift it out at a angle timing side highest. You might have to jack the tranny up a little bit more depends how well it goes
 
I dont have a picker so I was going to try to jack up block, then remove from tranny, and try to drop block and pull out. I really have no choice but to do that or try to come up with $200 for a picker but then I have no where to store it when im done. Can I leave alt and all that attached until the block is dropped? Its easier to unbolt shit when the main unit is off car LOL.

NOW is the time I could use you. We need to clean up fire wall of un needed things. Help me clean this up. You can go into paint and circle what I can take off and not need.
 
dont buy a pick go rent one for 69 bucks or less. if theres a sunbelt rental near you Id just rent one for a day take it back early and get part of the money back. The only thing really needed on the fire wall( top where most is visable) is the brake booster/fluid tank. Yes its easier to get them off with motor out but try to pull it out while they are on is a PITA
 
So all the VAC things and whatnot can come off? So the ONLY ONLY ONLY thing left is my brake fluid tank?
 
Lookin good!!

Hey how much of a pain was it to get the head off? Did you leave the intake/exhaust manifolds attached or did you pull them before you pulled the head?

I'm asking because I'm pulling the head (and replacing it) and doing a timing job on my GSX this weekend. It's the first time I've pulled the head on one of my DSM's.
 
oh its super easy. You dont need a book or anything like that. Just pretty much disconnect and go as you go along. You leave the intake manifold on head but thats about it. The rest comes off with eaise
 
Its damn near impossible getting the intake mani off with head on the car anyways. Yes Paul I dont think you need nething else(vac lines wise). Only thing I have left on mine is the brake fluid tank(that I remember).


EDIT


also the clutch fluid tank stays
 
Yeah U know I was just saying. Ill post a picture tomorrow of my firewall theres literaly nothing on it LOL.
 
oh its super easy. You dont need a book or anything like that. Just pretty much disconnect and go as you go along. You leave the intake manifold on head but thats about it. The rest comes off with eaise

That's what I was hoping. It turns out my GSX is on hold for a couple more months because I just found out that my freakin' head gasket on my talon is leaking.

SOOO all the parts I had ready for the GSX are now going on my TSI.

The catcher is that I HAVE to have this thing back on the road by monday morning.

Based on what you experienced pulling the head, how hard do you think it would be to do a full head gasket job in a weekend?
 
You can do it in a day, just have some experienced help with you....

x2

I had the head off in 1.5 hour and that was messing around and whatnot. Its actually pretty straight forward

That's what I was hoping. It turns out my GSX is on hold for a couple more months because I just found out that my freakin' head gasket on my talon is leaking.

SOOO all the parts I had ready for the GSX are now going on my TSI.

The catcher is that I HAVE to have this thing back on the road by monday morning.

Based on what you experienced pulling the head, how hard do you think it would be to do a full head gasket job in a weekend?

Hey man here is a 1g removal, but pretty much same concept. Hope it helps

Removing Engine from the Car
 
Just thought I would let you guys know that I got the old head off and popped the new head on last night.

Took about 8 hours, but we BS'd a lot and took many breaks to eat/smoke/drink beer.

The most time consuming part was actually swapping the cams and all the lifters into the new head! It took forever to bleed those suckers down....

We stopped for the night because NONE of us had the correct socket to torque the ARP nuts. Who would have thought that a deep 14mm 12-point socket with a half inch drive would be so hard to come by? Between the three of us we have about 5 complete tool sets (including a really nice snap-on set) and none of us had this socket. Sure, we probably could have used a shorty or use an adapter to go from half inch to 3/8, but with head studs we wanted to make sure everything was perfect.

I went and bought the socket this morning, so hopefully we'll be on the road tonight!!!
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top