water temperatures what are yours??

[GstRacer]

well just put my water temp guage in, and i was just wondering what evryone eles is running for temps?? I also have a fluidyne rad, and fal fans and i'm running about 210-220 is that normal??

 

[eclipsegsx1736]

That doesnt seem too high, mine go max about 210 usually 205 or so, using the logger to read the water temp.

 

[92awddsm]

Mine with fluidyne, fmic, and a single mercedes benze pusher fan runs 190-200. It was a lot higher untill I trimmed my bumper cover slightly.

 

[rowlex]

well just put my water temp guage in, and i was just wondering what evryone eles is running for temps?? I also have a fluidyne rad, and fal fans and i'm running about 210-220 is that normal??

unfortunently im in the same temperature range as you are, on hot days its even worse. Only at low speeds tho. Ive done some duct work to channel more low-speed air to go through the fmic....through the a/c core, and through the radiator. Hope it works

at i believe 206* the stock ecu pulls a few degrees of timing.

 

[99gst_racer]

I'm running a stock radiator with a 3.5" think FMIC in front of it and I never have exceeded 210* F. I am using (2) SPAL cooling fans wired into the LOW relay (which kicks on at 210*)

 

[Enraged78]

I range from 210 to 214. Doesn't seem to ever move from that range. Temp gauge always displays normal. All the 1Gs I've worked with run between 10 to 20 degrees colder. I'm thinking about moving to a lower temp thermostat, and using my DSMlink to compenate for the colder temps. I honestly believe that mitsu did this intentionally, as emission output is better in the 210 range. It is harder on engine components, howerver.

Matt.

 

[blk95tsi]

All of the readings on the thread (so far) are normal. My my 2G TSI runs 210 to 213.
That's average. It's never gone over 214 degrees.

 

[beat90tsi]

My logger generally reads between 192 and 201. Mine is a 1g, so that could account for the difference. I also do not run an FMIC, I do have AC in place.

 

[L2RTSiAWD]

On a 2G the fans come on so late that a 210 coolant temp is no big deal.

With my 24x12x3.5 FMIC,stock radiator, stock radiator fan and 11" SPAL A/C fan running together I can run about 203-206 in 115+ outside temps. Without the switch on letting the fans come on naturally I run about 206-213 in 115+ temps.

In cooler temps with both fans running I can stay at 195 degrees.

 

[evolvingGS-t]

Mine also tend to run in the 206 range. Although Mitsu is known for running a little warmer then other makes.

 

[UPGRADED2G]

unfortunently im in the same temperature range as you are, on hot days its even worse. Only at low speeds tho. Ive done some duct work to channel more low-speed air to go through the fmic....through the a/c core, and through the radiator. Hope it works

at i believe 206* the stock ecu pulls a few degrees of timing.

Im not sure how true the last part of that statement is, but I have seen 220 on my logger and still get 15-17 degress of timing at WOT (20lbs).

 

[98spydert]

Im not sure how true the last part of that statement is, but I have seen 220 on my logger and still get 15-17 degress of timing at WOT (20lbs).

It's true for a 2G. Coolant temps below 206 get full timing. Coolant temps above 224 loose 2 degrees timing. Temps between the two loose 1 degree. Intake temps above 84F degrees or below 34F degrees also loose one degree timing.

My 2G runs 192-198. Right now, with a coolant leak I'm running around 210 and it sucks ass. A tip, pressure test the coolant system and fix any leaks, then run distilled water with water weter. In cold climates run 50% anti-freeze of course.

 

[98eclipseRS]

are these the temps at idle or during cruising?? at idle my temps are 182-187, with aem I have the fans set to come on at 185 maybe my car is just weird??? I haven't really payed to much attention to the lap top at speed since I am usually driving the car but I would imagine they would be the same temp since more air is moving over the radiator.

Oh and this is with a spearco 216 core stock radiator and stock fans with the passanger side fan chopped to shit to fit my turbo.

 

[chicagoavenger]

On my 1st gen with a 180 degree thermo I run about 199-205F. Both fans rewired no front mount. AC is off and this is in 100 degree weather. I had a 195 thermo in there and temps where 210-220F. I have a 50/50 mix I think I should do a 30/70. 30 coolant 70 distilled since its so hot.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Just for sake of checking, my 2g talon idles at 210-214* at idle. I haven't tested it yet while driving, but is this normal?

50/50 mix with water wetter, new 180* tstat, stock rad, 1 rad slimline fan

 

[SlowSpyder]

Just for sake of checking, my 2g talon idles at 210-214* at idle. I haven't tested it yet while driving, but is this normal?

50/50 mix with water wetter, new 180* tstat, stock rad, 1 rad slimline fan

I say its due to your slimline fan. Although your slimline probably has a high cfm rating its probably not as effecient as a stock fan with shrouding. Also you have a front mount so most likely you removed the ducting behind the bumper cover. All of that will have an effect with your coolant temps. Try running a 70/30 mix, another slimline fan if you still have room and wire the 2 together. Removing the ducting behind the bumper cover will not route air to the radiator effeciently probably giving you higher temps than normal while cruising above 45

 

[blcknspo0ln]

just went for a drive to the gas station:

cruise at 60 mph - 203*
idle right after - 210*
cruise at 70* - 199*

that seems about right, no?

 

[Saotome98]

this is something that i've never really thought about but now i have a coolant temp gauge and while i'm doing city driving or driving slowly, my temp gets up to 100*C or 212*F. When i'm on the highway, my coolant temp stays at about 80*C or 176*F. I have stock cooling system but the motor is built with an FP green and all supporting mods. At what tempature should i worry about overheating?

 

[GstRacer]

well i chaged to a 170 t stat and water water and now i run 180 to 195 driving and about 205 at idle

 

[Turkish]

well i chaged to a 170 t stat and water water and now i run 180 to 195 driving and about 205 at idle

With my fluidyne, a 12"slim fan and HRC FMIC and a 170t stat I see the same numbers, when I turn on the second fan they drop 3-5 degrees more, according to my logger.

 

[Batty200]

What are your numbers under WOT?


Later

 

[98spydert]

well i chaged to a 170 t stat and water water and now i run 180 to 195 driving and about 205 at idle

Same now with the stock radiator, stock fans, big FMIC, 180 stat, distilled water with a bottle of water wetter. And on a 105 degree day. I hope it's a little lower at idle and low speed when the temp goes back down to the 80s and 90s.

 

[ericbev]

This is what my dad runs in our bored .60 over big block 65 Vette

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

Their coolant is high-tech but expensive. It brought coolant temps down quite a bit although, we did install a high flow alumnum water pump with it. The site gives quite alot of information if you dig around. We will also see about 4000 cfm of flow with our new fan setup

 

[Talon96tsiAWD]

ever since the front mount my car is overheating badly. At night i can keep it under control because its cooler outside, but during the day it cant take it. I am gonna pull the ac condenser and mount 2 fans push style and add another slim fan pull style on the other side.

today i hit 235* and shut it off. At night i cruise at like 209* in town, highway at like 199*

 

[2-0turbo]

ever since the front mount my car is overheating badly. At night i can keep it under control because its cooler outside, but during the day it cant take it. I am gonna pull the ac condenser and mount 2 fans push style and add another slim fan pull style on the other side.

today i hit 235* and shut it off. At night i cruise at like 209* in town, highway at like 199*

You guys with the FMICs really stand out. That is pretty hot for just cruising down the street. I think everyone with a FMIC and overheating problems can be narrowed down to two issues:

1. The FMIC is physically restricting air through the radiator. If you have retained AC, it is even worse.

2. The hacking and cutting you had to do to fit that FMIC into your bumper has disrupted the normal airflow through the front of your car. Consequently, the high pressure air at the front is not forced through the radiator (and FMIC and condensor) like it should, but leaks around it into lower pressure areas (like under the car).

235*F is too hot. That is getting into engine damage territory. You could probably pull that off with cast iron blocks/heads, but aluminum head/cast iron block is asking for trouble. I see 180*F during most situations. It will creep up to about 200 in town when you stop at a light and then the fans come on.

Track use (roadcourse) sees it peg at 209 (highest I've seen). That is with larger oil cooler in foglight hole and AC still intact. I plan on doing some additional sealing of the radiator area in the near future to bring those temps down further. A cool engine is a happy engine.

It really doesn't take much air to cool your engine if it is used effectively. A 1G has over 100 square inches of duct in the front bumper. At 60 MPH, that is over 4000 CFM. That is MORE than enough to cool our engines if it is used effectively. So, you guys with big FMICs and overheating issues need to seal the front of your cars up to force that air through the heat exchangers. That includes the gap between the condensor (or radiator if AC delete) and the FMIC. You have to force that air THROUGH the heat exchangers to make it remove heat.