(video) Does this sound right?

[Drift_SM]

well Ive noticed some problems with my idle....I'm not to sure what could be the cause.
plugs/wires/boost leak/carbon build up....who knows?

so i made a video...for you guys to listen to...please take note of how my exhaust at idle seems to stutter. and also the stutter from when viewing the engine bay.

please reply with any ideas on what you think could be causing this...

thanks
Alex

in a few days I'm going to start trying to solve this...so any tips or place to start could help.

http://home.comcast.net/~alexgrooms/gsx_clip_LAN.mov

oh one more thing.... the interior lights kinda flicker (dash gauges and floor lights)....its hard to notice but they seem to flicker with the stutter in the exhaust note.

 

[Cool Mr Steve]

Is this clip playing correctly on your computer? Because it's messing up on mine, no matter what program I use to play it. It starts to crap out near the middle of the video...

 

[Drift_SM]

Is this clip playing correctly on your computer? Because it's messing up on mine, no matter what program I use to play it. It starts to crap out near the middle of the video...

it might be because i use a editors compression program...try an update your quick time player.

 

[andymoraitis]

The first thing that really caught me was the lifter tick. I've heard it pretty loud before, but yours is way up there on the loud scale. Try a can of 4 cylinder Engine Restore and that should quiet down considerably.

Your idle condition sounds a great deal like a low RPM miss. I would do the following:

1. Replace plugs with a set of NGK BPR7ES gapped to 0.028"
2. Replace your plug wires if not done within the last year.
3. Check for intake leaks by the turbo inlet.

I wouldn't point to coil issues unless you get past those two things first. Also, pay close attention to spark plug gap since having it too wide can lead to low RPM loading and carbon fouling (makes the plug function like it's one heat range colder that what's installed). Also, do you have any hesitation or misfire under boost?

Check 'er out and let us know.

Andy

 

[CharlieRHFD]

sorry to ask in such tough times..... but what type of bov and exhaust are you running with? thanks

 

[Drift_SM]

"sorry to ask in such tough times..... but what type of bov and exhaust are you running with? thanks"

Apexi N1 cat-back. Greddy type S BOV (recirculated)

The first thing that really caught me was the lifter tick. I've heard it pretty loud before, but yours is way up there on the loud scale. Try a can of 4 cylinder Engine Restore and that should quiet down considerably.

Where can i get this?.....how does it work?...how do i put it in my engine?

also i had the idea that it might be the plugs and wires that caused the bad idle..but where can i get the NGK's and new wires?

 

[andymoraitis]

Here's the info you're looking for on where to get what.

Spark plugs can be purchased from Summit Racing. Every time I've bought from them, the plugs were pre-gapped at .028, but check them with a gapper just to be sure. Just search for NGK-2023 at the main page:

http://www.summitracing.com

You can also buy spark plug wires from Summit. There's no big difference between all of the manufacturers. NGK, Magnecore and Accel are all pretty much the same. Don't waste your money on Nology or any over-priced brand.

To cure the lifter tick, stop by your local AutoZone or any auto parts store and look for "Engine Restore". Drop it in your crankcase where you add oil. There are 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder versions so use the 4 cylinder. I use this at every oil change it I can't hear my lifters at all. Note that this works MUCH better than anything else I've ever used so don't subsitute it with something else. Also, you will not need to change your oil to add this in.

Hope that helps,

Andy

 

[spatulahunter1]

goto vfaq and read all about idle issues. Our cars have them pretty bad and there are quite a few things that can cause it. There is a list that goes through almost everything that can possible make your car idle poorly. It is title idle surge but a low idle is often cause by similar problems so make sure to check it out. Your lights are dimming because your car is idling so low that it cant give enough power to spin the alternator.
Read the VFAQ there is an extremely good chance you will find your answer there.

 

[Drift_SM]

well im do for an oil change...so sould i change the oil and then put this in? or put it in and change the oil in a few days?

 

[andymoraitis]

well im do for an oil change...so sould i change the oil and then put this in? or put it in and change the oil in a few days?

Just do it when you change the oil. A few more days won't hurt anything. Also, that's really good advice above.

Head on over to http://www.vfaq.com and start digging around for idle issues.

Let us know what you find,

Andy

 

[rampridersrider]

I had the same problem with my car. It would idle like sh*t and stutter. I pulled the plugs and they were gapped to .40 so I gapped them to .28 and that helped a lot. I then put in some NGK bpr6's and that made a huge difference. It idles perfect now. Not saying this could cure your problem, but it did mine.

 

[kraka]

I found that clip hard to understand....I didn't hear any signs of idle surge there, at least nothing like mine...At the shot of the exhaust, was that you revving, or the engine doing it itself, b/c mine does it by itself (bouncing 2K-700rpm) so I don't understand where you see the problem

 

[Drift_SM]

I had the same problem with my car. It would idle like sh*t and stutter. I pulled the plugs and they were gapped to .40 so I gapped them to .28 and that helped a lot. I then put in some NGK bpr6's and that made a huge difference. It idles perfect now. Not saying this could cure your problem, but it did mine.

ya the previous owner put NGk plugs in....but I'm afraid to take them out and check the gap..because i don't have a toque wrench at the moment so i don't want to screw up when i put em back.

 

[CharlieRHFD]

once again........ sorry to be off topic, but thats recirculated!!!!!? thats f'ing loud as hell! and does anybody know if the $329 Megan Racing Cat-Back or $379 Authority 3" Cat-Back Exhausts sound at all like the Apexi N1? Im kind of on budget. Is the Apexi N1 what was on the Eclipse from The Fast And The Furious does anybody know? I liked the sound of that.
Thanks and sorry for being off topic again.

oh, but on topic, just a thought, is you idle set low? to me it sounds a little low. I dont think it will cure any ticking but it was a thought that came across my mind...?
(Words of a newb)

 

[reNgrOets19]

My car seems like it doe the same thing when it idles id kinda sounds like it misses and when i turn on my heater the idle dies down is this normal?

 

[andymoraitis]

ya the previous owner put NGk plugs in....but I'm afraid to take them out and check the gap..because i don't have a toque wrench at the moment so i don't want to screw up when i put em back.

I've never put plugs in with a torque wrench. When you put them back in tighten them by hand until they seat and then give them another 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn and they'll be fine. If you're really nervous about it, take it to a shop and have them replace the plugs for you (just make sure they use the ones you supply).

Also, I neglected to mention that if you're running less than 15-16 psi, then NGK BPR6ES will be a better choice. Still gap them to .028, but if you're not pushing big boost, the stock heat range will do fine.

Cheers!

Andy

 

[andymoraitis]

I found that clip hard to understand....I didn't hear any signs of idle surge there, at least nothing like mine...At the shot of the exhaust, was that you revving, or the engine doing it itself, b/c mine does it by itself (bouncing 2K-700rpm) so I don't understand where you see the problem

Listen to the idle RPM and you can hear it miss. It sounds fine when revved, but when it's at idle you can here it "skip".

Let me know if that makes sense,

Andy

 

[Drift_SM]

I've never put plugs in with a torque wrench. When you put them back in tighten them by hand until they seat and then give them another 1/2 to 2/3 of a turn and they'll be fine. If you're really nervous about it, take it to a shop and have them replace the plugs for you (just make sure they use the ones you supply).

Also, I neglected to mention that if you're running less than 15-16 psi, then NGK BPR6ES will be a better choice. Still gap them to .028, but if you're not pushing big boost, the stock heat range will do fine.

Cheers!

Andy

right now i have no MBC, I'm running on stock boost....but i plan on getting a MBC soon, so should i still go with the NKG BRP7ES?...

also, i don't have the tool to measure the plug gap....is there something else i can use to measure the plugs...to make sure its .028?

 

[Nanan]

right now i have no MBC, I'm running on stock boost....but i plan on getting a MBC soon, so should i still go with the NKG BRP7ES?...

also, i don't have the tool to measure the plug gap....is there something else i can use to measure the plugs...to make sure its .028?

Go buy one of those cheapy round plug gap keychain things they sell at autozone, its like $1 or less. Stick to the BRP6ES unless you are going over 16psi.

 

[Drift_SM]

alright...thanks guys...im ganna do every thing that you all told me and post the results soon.

thanks again

Alex

 

[Spyydie98]

Regarding your plugs, the box that the NGK plugs come in says 1\2 to 2\3 turn, but remember that that is with the new crush washer on them. When you re-install plugs that have already been installed once, the washers are already crushed, so I wouldn't turn any more than 1\4 turn after they're hand tightened.

 

[Drift_SM]

OK i went out and got a few things....to try and solve this idle issue.

-NGK BPR6ES 0.028
-NGK 8mm wires
-fuel injector cleaner
-Dry Gas (courtesy of the mitsu dealer i work at)
-4cyl engine restore (put it in with a new oil change)

RESULTS: Idle has improved, but at times still stutters at low RPM...usually when cold.

THEORY: i believe my car is running rich, I'm getting only about 18 miles to the gallon (driving some what Conservative) i only got about 215 miles out of the tank. but the funny thing is...when the needle is on empty the gas light comes on then off...randomly...and then when i fill it up it only took about 13 gallons when the trigger clicked.
My manual says we have a 15 gallon tank...is my situation normal.
also i think maybe i need a new Manifold O2 sensor. maybe that could be aiding to the bad mileage and stutter.

oh and one more....I have an exhaust leak at the flex section of my down pipe...could that effect anything?

any ideas guys?

Thanks
Alex

 

[Vexiis]

THEORY: i believe my car is running rich, I'm getting only about 18 miles to the gallon (driving some what Conservative) i only got about 215 miles out of the tank. but the funny thing is...when the needle is on empty the gas light comes on then off...randomly...and then when i fill it up it only took about 13 gallons when the trigger clicked.
My manual says we have a 15 gallon tank...is my situation normal.
also i think maybe i need a new Manifold O2 sensor. maybe that could be aiding to the bad mileage and stutter.

I have the exact same issue, I run my car till its on Empty then the gas light comes on and off, I fill up and it takes about 12 gallons, yet the manual says I have a 15 gallon tank.
I think for mine it might be just the fact that the gas gauge is not accurate.

How can you check to see if you need a new O2 sensor?

 

[Defiant]

THEORY: i believe my car is running rich, I'm getting only about 18 miles to the gallon (driving some what Conservative) i only got about 215 miles out of the tank.

You should get a bit over 20, and 300 miles. Suspect the front O2 sensor.

but the funny thing is...when the needle is on empty the gas light comes on then off...randomly...and then when i fill it up it only took about 13 gallons when the trigger clicked.

All normal. You have "two" tanks by the saddle over the driveshaft. The fuel return from the injector rail is a jet pump, and pulls the fuel from the left side to the fuel pump on the right, where the light switch is. It takes about five minutes for the left side to be pumped to the right on a straight highway, and if you do a hard right in that time the gas will slosh back over and turn the light on again.

My manual says we have a 15 gallon tank...is my situation normal.

I've yet to hear of anyone getting that much in.

also i think maybe i need a new Manifold O2 sensor. maybe that could be aiding to the bad mileage and stutter.

I don't know if it'll help the stutter, but it may help the mileage.

 

[ddavisaf]

A small boost leak can cause exactly what you're experiencing.
Poor gas mileage, slight stuttering, funky idle. That's actually how I usually know if I've got a loose pipe. My gas mileage will go down, or my idle will sound off. And it's really easy to tell when you let your car idle in your garage.
Anywho,
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/ICtester.html
20 psi for a minimum of 30 seconds. Also, change your fuel filter.