Does this idle sound right?

[Hakmak]

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I've done a recent bottom end rebuild (spun bearing) and a complete head rebuild 6 months before that. So the engine is pretty new. My profile is up to date so you can reference there for the mods. I also just did a throttle body rebuild not too long ago (annoying shaft O-rings) so I tested the ISC, and adjusted the TPS. Had a small leak at the BISS but just fixed that yesterday. I not sure of what else to do but I haven't get it to idle like it used to and I'm not sure if its the BC and that is the way it suppose to sound. I'm getting 10HG vacuum which would indicate some sort of leak but the BLT only found the BISS. Also the oil pressure is pretty low too but I'm not sure if that's normal.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Why is your fuel pressure so low? Have you checked base pressure?

 

[Hakmak]

If you are reffering to the guage inside above the stairing wheel, that is the oil pressure. How would one check "base" pressure? I have the AEM (on top of the IM) set to 43.5 or at least its pretty close, wish the guage was digital or notches werent in 2's.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Oh ok gotcha

 

[Mauispyder]

Maybe a compression leak down test?

 

[Hakmak]

It literately has less than 1k on a newly rebuilt short block. I hope to god its not compression. What about VaCUUM BEING AT 10hg, is that normal on def272?

HA....I use that same hard plastic device you have in your pic Mauispyder, to do my timing so I know that is rock solid!

 

[Dsmkauai]

Are you sure the adjustable cam gears are locked at 0 and not moved alittle? And when I had my 272's my hg where def lower. How high did you blt to?

 

[Mauispyder]

Sorry, just thought leak down might rule out intake or exhaust leak as causes. From my reading but not personal experience vac of 10 seems a little weak even for a "lopey" cam

 

[Hakmak]

I'll check the gears again. BLT upto 30lbs.

 

[Hakmak]

So I did a test to 25lb....30lbs scares me . I start hearing a high pitch sound when it go past 23lbs. The only thing I can hear is a crazy small leak inside the TB which I believe are the seals (MAJOR PAIN). I recently rebuilt it but I guess it wasn't good enough so I'll look for a cheap core and send it out for a rebuild instead. But I think the overall test was pretty good, took more than 2 mins to get down to 0lbs. What do you guys think? I also check the marks on the gears and they are spot on. Also checked the gap on the sparkplus are .028 which they are. Next I will plug back in my MAF to go around the translater to see if that might be my issue. I actually suspect its the GM MAF that might be effed up but process of elimination I guess.

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[Hakmak]

Changed back to the stock 2G MAF setup from the MAF-T translater but I'm still getting the same result. I'm ripping my hair out at this point. This is not my only issue, its also over heating and I dont know why. The over heating started when I rebuilt the head (well the shop did). But I now have the bottom end rebuild as well and still getting the over heating unless I turn on the heat inside the car but even then, after while the needle will still move above normal temp then drop back down, it down this frequently. The funny thing is, the gauge started going up and down as though the temp guage wire was disconnecting then reconnecting....idk man, I'm holding on to this car that I love so much but everytime I fix one thing, there goes something else. Its like I cant really do what I want to do with the car because I'm constantly fixing shit...extremely annoying (sorry venting a lil). I just want to get my beast back to where is was when it was fun to drive. I think it might be either my ignition system (coil pack maybe), alternator or TPS or one of those sensors on the TB. Wish me luck....its getting more and more difficult to work on this car without having my whole wkend wasted.....sad

 

[Hakmak]

I ran across a few threads that spoke about stuck open EGR valve....each on explains my problem....(dies at stop lights and horrible idle). I'm pretty hopeful as I never changed or did anything at all with the EGR. I'm away in FL right now so I cant mess with it yet until Tue or Wed sometime. Wish me Luck!

 

[Hakmak]

So I finally got a chance to check the timing and at first it look like I may be off by a tooth ( just by looking at the lower cover and harmonic balancer). But then I took that off to look at the plate mark and everything look dead on. I took some pic so I can have some more eyes on it. So basically the crank marks and Cam marks are spot on but the lower timing cover look slightly off but I know you guys are going to tell me that the important marks or dead on and that what matters but I just want to be sure before I check this off the list and bolt everything back up.

 

[Hakmak]

So I surrendered with my tail between my legs and phoned in a friend to look at this for me.....much respect to my boy WAYNESPEED! Turns out it was the TPS sensor...it was slightly misadjusted. I recently got the TB rebuild from throttlebody.com. Guess steve must have misadjusted after the rebuild. I didn't check it after I got it from him, I should have just to be sure. But here is the problem now.....I did the whole TPS adjustment procedure outlined here. http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-adjust-the-throttle-position-sensor-tps.324431/

But now the TPS is flipping between 14.1 and 14.5 when idling. I also logged the IPS in evoscan and noticed it also flips between 0 and 1. and I can always tell when it going to 1 because I get a surge.

 

[Hakmak]

This is really starting to feel like a journal.....So I'm going to have time this weekend to set my IPS to 1 when opened using the feeler gauge (.0177) setting. I hope I can finally put this thing to bed and move on to the next F*$king problem, OVERHEATING!