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very interesting deal

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lzertrbo

10+ Year Contributor
125
0
Jun 22, 2009
spanish fork, Utah
ok so i texted this guy about a complete engine minus turbo, with 98000 miles 6 bolt running, and he says make an offer so i told him i would give him my old fwd tranny and ecu pkus 300 bucks and he says yes...question is should i go for it? cant go wrong with having an extra engine sitting around
 
Sounds like a pretty good deal to me. Make sure you check compresion and look it over real good, could be too good to be true... Who knows.
 
thats not a good deal, your Tranny can be sold alone at 500 USD if in working condition and ECU another 100 + 300 cash = 900 USD

i would pay 1100 and get very low mileage JDM 6 bolts with the turbo on it ( tested and guranteed)


its not a good deal its just so so
 
Im picking up a long block saturday for 200.. Keep your eyes open and never offer that much the first time.. You should of just said 300 off the bat.. Now your screwed. Its either deal or no deal now
 
thats not a good deal, your Tranny can be sold alone at 500 USD if in working condition and ECU another 100 + 300 cash = 900 USD

i would pay 1100 and get very low mileage JDM 6 bolts with the turbo on it ( tested and guranteed)


its not a good deal its just so so


If you think about the REALITY...

Mosty FWD Trannies actually sell for $300 and you'll be lucky to sell a Non-Eprom ECU let alone for $100 ROFL.. maybe more like $50

So i figure Trannie $300, ECU $50, $300 Cash= $650... not a bad deal

Think about it, you'd be selling it to fellow DSMers after all ROFL
 
If you do fall through with it, check for obvious signs of abuse/lack of maintenance. Check the oil and spark plugs as well as compression.
 
Yes, just look around I bought a complete 6 bolt long block for 200 + 1hr drive.
 
how do you test compression when its just an engine on a stand?

A simple and crude way to do it is to do it with a battery and jumper cables. Hook the positif to the starter, where the power cable (positif) is normally connected when it is on the car, and the negative to the engine block (ground). You will need another person to "jump start" the engine using a scerw driver across the starter solenoid while you do the compression tester reading. Use and old screw driver and be carefull as it may cause sparks. It is a bit dangerous but feasible.
 
No kidding ive bough at least 3 6-bolts this year in running condition and havent payed more then 300 bucks, and 2 of them came with cars.
 
If you want to test that motor do a leak down test, not a compression test. Compression needs to be done when the motor is in the car and the car is warmed up to operating temperatures. Using a battery and wires to crank the motor will not work because the motor needs to be warmed up first than perform the compression test.

A leak down uses a compressor and tests 2 cylinders at a time. Basically it tells you if you have blow by ( so bad piston rings), if your intake valves are leaking, if your exhaust valves are leaking, or any other places air could escape through. Do a leak down test
 
I'd check the rod bearings as well, since you can not hear or see the engine running. My bro picked up a (running engine) he got it home and the was a bad spun rod bearing the made it's way through the bearing and into the rod, I'd pull the cap's and look. if it's good bearing r cheap and slap it back to gather.
 
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