valve cover...cam seals leaking

[estoyaqui30]

I got a stage IV head from SBR about a year ago. I finally got to install it along with a new flywheel and oil pan...pulled out the entire engine/tranny/etc. New ARP studs, Cometic MLS head gasket. everything involved with the timing belt was replaced. So, a week later, I found that the cam seals and valve cover were wet with oil big time. There was oil flinging everywhere from the timing belt. There seemed to be a lot of lifter noise, but they were fine before. I got a brand new set of topline HLAs from JNZ and installed them along with new cam seals and valve cover gasket. I even put a nice bead of black RTV where the valve cover gasket meets the head, around the bolt holes, etc. A week later, it's leaking AGAIN! Oil everywhere. Has anybody seen this before? Did SBR F*** up the head? I just sent my original to Darren at FFWD and will replace it again. Everything was fine until I installed this head. When it's cold, if I press on the timing belt in between the cam sprockets, there is now movement of the sprockets themselves.

Thanks
Jason

 

[knochgoon24]

Did you put oil on the inner ring of the camshaft seal? Running them dry during first start up may damage them and cause them to leak.

 

[FUNWHEELDRIVE]

quick question, would you also have to oil the rear main seal?

 

[viprez586]

Your not suppose to gob RTV everywhere. Your typical RTV sucks IMHO.
I use FIPG(Formed In Place Gasket) by Toyota(Most OEMs have similar stuff) that cures in the absence of air.

IF necessary use a THIN layer along the front and back of the valve cover. I must be clear - a thin layer...you only want to take out room for minor imperfections.
Use it again on the entire area of the half moon, the CAS hump(1G 6 bolt head only), and Cam humps. You want a decent layer on these areas, don't go over kill - you don't want excess dropping down into the oil galleys or gumming up lifters.

Did you prime your lifters?
Take them out and prime them full of brake cleaner/parts cleaner etc.
Let them sit over night, or a whole day.
Prime.
Bleed air out.(A lot of oil will come out too)
Install.

 

[estoyaqui30]

I put Chrysler assembly lube on all of the cam bearing journals, I put fresh castrol Edge full synthetic oil on the cam seals. I used a Chrysler sealant on the edges of the two bearing caps at the cam seal end. I did not GOB RTV on anything, I used a thin film on the sealing surface of the head after nothing would seal the first time. The RTV was Chrysler factory product. I did this work at my brother's auto shop, with some assistance form him. He was a senior technician at a Chrysler/Jeep dealer for over 10 years and has owned his own shop for another 10 years since leaving Chrysler. The first time the oil was leaking around the outside of the cam seals. The lifters were primed and were brand new, so they did not need any "cleaning". I also replaced the rear main seal too. Even with a thin film of RTV around the valve cover bolt holes, there is oil leaving from around the bolts. At this point I can move the cam sprockets (flexing the cam with it) by pressing on the timing belt in between the sprockets...that it telling me that the cam bearing/journal at the front of the engine may have worn away since installing. I am thinking the SBR may have screwed something and the the front journals are not oiling.

 

[viprez586]

Yep, no good. Someone didn't check the clearances. Sorry to hear that.

Supposedly SBR has turned around they're bad name. Keep us updated on how they treat your situation please.
There is a growing number of members who are curious if they have indeed stepped up their game.

What valve cover do you have?
My Hyundai leaked like a sieve.