upgrading to stage two clutch

[jimstaz]

I could be wrong but as most of us know most of our 1st gens have clutch issues (but most cars do with a bad driver) im not sure why we have bad clutches or so many problems.. so im in the middle of a tear down on my gsx.. im going to upgrade everything i can onthe clutch area.. i need some help.. i am going to get a stage 2 clutch and light weight fly wheel.. im also going to change the throw out bearing, slave and master cylinders... is there any other parts that might as well replace and if possible what can be upgraded? and what else can i do or replace and upgrade to help me out with my clutch project?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

The clutch fork and check the ball for any grooves. If it has grooves. Replace. Look up jafromobile on youtube. He has mask videos with very helpful information. He gives part numbers and tells you what can go wrong and why be what happens if it does.

 

[flyineagletsi]

^ +1. Memorize those videos and you should be golden. Make sure that you use a clutch kit alignment tool, and you don't loose your alignment dowel pins for the transmission. Along with jafromobile's videos, watch Jackstransmissions clutch master cylinder adjustment video, so that you get your clutch pedal adjustment right.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I'd also recommend that you look into more of how a clutch functions and the grades of clutches besides " Stage 2". There are several aspects in regards to clutch life and their individual functions. For instance, would you be best suited for a Kevlar disk? Composite? Pressure Plate clamp force? Sprung or Unsprung hub? How 'light' is the flywheel you are getting? What are it's options?

All of this comes into play with clutches, plus much more. These range from Clutch pedal adjustment, engagement height, master and slave cylinders, lines, and so forth. I recommend you watch as many videos as possible and do some research on clutches, themselves, before going about buying a 'stage two' clutch kit and slapping it on.

 

[LiquidX]

I agree with Kei here. Some companys use a "stage" rating but for the most part it means jack squat about the clutch and it's clamping force.

Southbend Clutch
Fidanza
ACT

Those are 3 good names out there to use that are more commonly used. Personally without any goals stated from you I would run either the ACT 2600 street disk or the Fidanze 3.2 Kevlar disk. I would also use the Fidanza aluminum flywheel as it has a replaceable friction surface.

 

[ChiTownHussla]

If you are on a budget like I am, I bought an abay clutch kit. it is a stage 3 kit, rated at 350 horses and 300 torques I believe. I dont plan on making more power than that for a year or two, so thats why i made my choice. the sellers name is Gripforce, and his seller rating is 99 percent and above.The clutch had so much grip, when i was breaking it it, it almost stalled half the time because it is a quality clutch. i have installed clutches from autozone (duralast) and those suck, as the have so little "meat" they grab right away without wanting to stall. there is my 2 cents. PM with questions or concerns.

 

[flyineagletsi]

If you are on a budget like I am, I bought an abay clutch kit. it is a stage 3 kit, rated at 350 horses and 300 torques I believe.

Like previously mentioned, this is exactly why the "stage" is a worthless description, because it is all about perspective. In my mind, I would think that a stage 3 clutch should be able to hold more than 300 fl/lb of torque because a 16g with mild mods can push that. Talk to a Honda guy and 300 ft/lbs may seem like a lot to him, but you talk to most dsm guys and their idea of a stage 3 is mucchhh different. Individual specs, about each component, takes the guessing game out of it completely.

 

[Cspaintballer]

If you are on a budget like I am, I bought an abay clutch kit. it is a stage 3 kit, rated at 350 horses and 300 torques I believe. I dont plan on making more power than that for a year or two, so thats why i made my choice. the sellers name is Gripforce, and his seller rating is 99 percent and above.The clutch had so much grip, when i was breaking it it, it almost stalled half the time because it is a quality clutch. i have installed clutches from autozone (duralast) and those suck, as the have so little "meat" they grab right away without wanting to stall. there is my 2 cents. PM with questions or concerns.

I hope you don't drive your car as bad as you type a paragraph.

To the OP at little more information would be helpfull in finding what clutch your looking for. ACT makes great clutches. The 2100 holds alot of power and can take alot of abuse, there is a noticable feel in the pedal though. But all around good clutch.

Just make sure you do your homework and find out which clutch best fits your driving and the car before you install a clutch you wont be happy with!

 

[ChiTownHussla]

I hope you don't drive your car as bad as you type a paragraph.

To the OP at little more information would be helpfull in finding what clutch your looking for. ACT makes great clutches. The 2100 holds alot of power and can take alot of abuse, there is a noticable feel in the pedal though. But all around good clutch.

Just make sure you do your homework and find out which clutch best fits your driving and the car before you install a clutch you wont be happy with!

Well, considering I was on my cell phone driving, I dont think I did so bad....anyway, you guys always support the most expensive stuff on t his forum. I am just telling the OP my experience with my clutch. I have had it for around 7k miles. not one slip or problem clutch related. the pedal is a bit stiff but that is to be expected from such a powerful kit. My comment was to help the OP, but thanks

 

[LiquidX]

you guys always support the most expensive stuff on t his forum.

Generally you get what you pay for and most of the times there is a reason the price is higher than eBay more-so than just from a name.

Let me ask you this. If you have to get a tubular manifold, which would you get.

A cheap eBay manifold that is $200 and you are unaware of the type of metal that is used?

OR

A $900 name manifold that is using schedule steel and is welded properly so that it won't stress crack?

 

[ChiTownHussla]

Generally you get what you pay for and most of the times there is a reason the price is higher than eBay more-so than just from a name.

Let me ask you this. If you have to get a tubular manifold, which would you get.

A cheap eBay manifold that is $200 and you are unaware of the type of metal that is used?

OR

A $900 name manifold that is using schedule steel and is welded properly so that it won't stress crack?

I personally have a Slow boy racing manifold, picked up for 150 dollars. and haven't you read on here already, that some of these NAME BRAND companies make stuff in the EXACT SAME factory as some ebay sellers? I am not saying the high price products are bad, but I am saying there are ebay products that have a excellent reputation as well. I believe I read on here somewhere about someone using a NAME BRAND intake pipe for thier turbo, and then utilizing a ebay model and saw a slight gain off the ebay pipe.

 

[LiquidX]

I personally have a Slow boy racing manifold, picked up for 150 dollars. and haven't you read on here already, that some of these NAME BRAND companies make stuff in the EXACT SAME factory as some ebay sellers? I am not saying the high price products are bad, but I am saying there are ebay products that have a excellent reputation as well. I believe I read on here somewhere about someone using a NAME BRAND intake pipe for thier turbo, and then utilizing a ebay model and saw a slight gain off the ebay pipe.

An intake pipe is a little different than an exhaust manifold that is going to be seeing 500+*F while holding up to 60lbs of weight. There is a reason why most people say that tubular manifolds are not for street driving due to the cracking issues associated when not using the proper metal.

Some parts are excellent from eBay and some are complete junk. IMO I'd rather use a proven part than take a risk on some eBay special that may break in a few weeks and then have to spend more money again which could equal out to the price of the name brand proven piece.

Some people get lucky with certain products while others have no luck with the same thing.

 

[jimstaz]

i do must my shopping on horsepowerfreaks.com or slowboy (they are building me a head as we speak) due to me never h aving problems with there stuff. i spend lots of money on body kits that dont fit right, a head thay sucks (all for my 2003 gs) and sometimes the person i bought from disappears or dont honor warrantys when the add said they did. never doing ebay again.

Thanks for the clutch info and i am in a middle of looking for the clutch, i will ignore the stages of the clutch.. didnt really pay attention to that and ill ###### go with the fidanze brand... heard nothing about good things from them.

I will replace my fork as well and i do have an alignment too. wish me luck. buildin this car ground up.. one thing at a time and will do pictures of the build for each section i do. thanks