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rob_drake2

10+ Year Contributor
57
0
Sep 26, 2012
Baytown, Texas
Alright I have quite a few parts now and I have some questions about parts or if I really need them right now. If so it's not a big deal, it'll just be a few more weeks to get it.
Here's what I have now:
-Hallman Manual Boost Controller
-Innovate LC-2 Turbo Timer
-Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
-MAP Fuel Lab AFPR
-FP Race Manifold
-FIC 1150 cc Injectors
-MHI 20G Turbo
-JM Fab SS O2 Housing
-3" SRS Downpipe
-3" Thermal Catback Exhaust
-VRSF 2G FMIC
-ECM Link
-ACT 2600 Clutch
-Aftermarket Gauges

I know i'll have to get some kind of cat or pipe for the exhaust.
The other parts I was looking at and planned on getting that I'm questioning now are:
-ARP Cylinder Head Studs http://www.maperformance.com/arp-cylinder-head-studs-dsm-7-bolt-mitsubishi-evo-8-9-207-4203.html
-Map Beehive Valve Spring Kit http://www.maperformance.com/map-beehive-valve-spring-kit-w-titanium-retainers-evo-8-9.html
-Brian Crower 272/272 or 280/280 Camshafts. Also considering The HKS 280/280 Camshafts instead.
Brian Crower: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=20480&cat=1448&page=1
HKS: http://www.extremepsi.com/store/product.php?productid=19162&cat=519&page=1

Any other info or items that I could be missing let me know.
 
Parts seem to be on point, just be sure to install those ARP Head studs prior to cranking up the boost.. Also, you don't need that AFPR if you don't want to spend the money.
 
Alright thanks, so I will need the parts I had in question for sure? Yeah I already bought the parts in my first list. My goal is at least 300hp and anything higher or even around there I'd be happy.
 
You do need AFPR, with a 255 pump it will over run the stock regulator and you will always burn rich. You will be cleaning your rear bumper from smoke build up.. If you were to put a 190, then your tock will be fine. Do it right the first time.
 
+ 1 on the AFPR. Reason being you say you want 300 now next will be 350 then 400 and it goes on and in LOL. So while your upgrading might as well do it now.
 
From the spring pressures given on the MAP site, I recommend going with Brian Crower BC1100 springs instead. They are cheaper and provide more pressure. Also, considering your cam choice, I wouldn't bother with retainers. Use the money you save for a WIDEBAND O2!
 
I recommend ARP L19's for the head studs. They are worth the extra money. They won't get spongy "the second time around" god forbid. Actually, I've had stock 2G TTY head-studs yield less than the ARP standard head-studs, but that's just me.

Just make sure your BOV doesn't leak at the boost level you'll be running, didn't see it on the list. My 1G leaked very much so at anything over 20PSI. Everyone's mileage varies on that.

Keep the AFPR and "mod" the Wally 255 before you drop it in. :)
 
The car is gonna be mainly street, possibly the track like once a month, but I like the ACT 2600 in it. it's a little stiff and makes a little noise in 1st but after that it's great and it's pretty easy.

I'll have to look into those springs, but I know later on I will want to go for more hp so if I can get them as a package cheaper i'll probably do that. Thanks for the answer and help. yeah I keep forgetting to put the wideband on my list.

yeah I also forgot to mention that I have a aftermarket BOV since I've had it stored for a little while. ok i'll look more into that mod and read up on it.

Thanks for all the answers to my parts list and the questions I had about them, it helps out greatly.
 
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