Unibody Frame Repair

[Carlz0r]

Just figured I'd throw another option out there for you. If I can't sell my shell, I've got a local guy who wants to buy all the awd parts off it. If I end up having to go that route, I could always cut out some patch panels for you, that way it'd save having to custom fab a bunch of stuff.

 

[Blurred Talon]

I could be interested in some of the smaller panels, shipping is a big deal.

I don't think I'm gonna put the spare tire mount back in the car. I'll have room in there for a meth tank or battery then.

 

[jericho777]

That's what it looks like.


I also plan to use some POR15.

My son used POR15 on his GST core support with mixed results. It seems like it wants to flake off after a while. It does not penetrate it just overcoats rust.

The Eastwood product on the other hand looks promising. You could even squirt it inside the rockers. Has any one used it?

 

[housegsx]

Has any one used it?

I will be! I already have their 2k ceramic chassis black, but I'll be using any of their rust prep that I need. Mostly on the chassis itself as I'll be blasting everything else.

I got the Eastwood stuff after I read mixed reviews of POR15.

 

[greengoblin]

Por15 work great on bare metal.

 

[Blurred Talon]

I will be! I already have their 2k ceramic chassis black, but I'll be using any of their rust prep that I need. Mostly on the chassis itself as I'll be blasting everything else.

I got the Eastwood stuff after I read mixed reviews of POR15.

Which Eastwood products are you using?

I've heard Rust Bullet is better then POR15.

I really like the 2K Ceramic Chassis black too.

 

[Jeff99GS]

If you have a rotted out core support or something that is rusted bad, NOTHING is going to turn that rust back into metal. This Por 15 or other stuff is not meant to apply over a pile of rotted metal. You have to blast away ALL the rust. If the metal is 50% gone...then you should cut out the rusted metal and replace it with NEW metal...THEN you can apply these coatings to prevent future rust.

Any chemical that claims to turn rust back into metal is a gimmick. Rust is like Cancer....it will come back if its not removed 100%
If there is a PIN hole spot of rust it will come back from the inside OUT and cause any coating to bubble up and flake off.

There are chemicals that can SLOW the rust process down...but they can never stop it completely once it has started.

The right way to repair rust is to media blast it like HouseGSX is doing or remove it and replace with fresh metal. Once the area is clean of ALL rust you can use Por 15 "Metal Ready"...which is a ZINC phosphate coating. Then apply your other coatings on top of that.

The reason all our 2g's rust in the same spot is cause the factory DIPS our cars in a vat of chemicals to prevent rust. Well the spots that rust are usually caused by air pockets trapped in the shell when the car is dipped. Also the rear hatch and hood have spots of seam sealer missing or applied incorrectly.
Aka poor build quality.

 

[housegsx]

Which Eastwood products are you using?

I've heard Rust Bullet is better then POR15.

I really like the 2K Ceramic Chassis black too.

I just have the 2k chassis black kit so far.


I'll probably use this to convert any rust. Whether it be parts I can't get to by blasting, sanding, wire wheeling, or electrolysis. I might also just wash parts in it to get any flash rust or rust that might be in pits before priming. I'll definitely soak the hell out of the pinch welds with it.

EW Rust Converter One Gallon - Converts Surface to Black Protective Polymeric Coating - Eastwood


Then I might use this to primer.

Rust Encapsulator Paint - Stop Rust and Corrosion


Then I will coat the underbody with this tinted green.

U-Pol Raptor Truck Bed Liner Kit - TP Tools & Equipment


I haven't decided what to do about fasteners. I haven't priced that stuff out, but if it gets too expensive I might use this on the majority. Or have someone else do it.

Electroplating System Tin Zinc - Tin Electroplating System Kit - Zinc Plating Polish

 

[Blurred Talon]

I'm not going to try and coat any rust with anything, I want to remove it. Rust is a cancer and the best cure is to cut it out of there.
A lot of the fasteners in the car I'll be replacing with SS or aluminum.

I'm going to be out at the car next week. I think I'm going to start working on the trunk:
- pull the tail lights and rear bumper,
- find any other rust back there
- cut it out
- make a patch panel, spray with weld through primer on both pieces.
- tack the new panel in 3/4-1" at a time, keeping the shape with a hammer and moving around the panel to prevent warping.
- apply seam sealer to the patch panel.
- prime and then paint it with a trim black or roll bar paint. I'll see what the guys at the auto body supply shop suggest.

What's everyone think? I should be be able to bang off my trunk repairs in a day or two.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Sounds like a good plan!

Another trick that makes welding sheet metal easier, is to have an air compressor with a blower wand. When the metal gets too hot cool it down with some compressed air. It helps a ton!

 

[jericho777]

I haven't decided what to do about fasteners. I haven't priced that stuff out, but if it gets too expensive I might use this on the majority. Or have someone else do it.

Electroplating System Tin Zinc - Tin Electroplating System Kit - Zinc Plating Polish

I was reading a thread here a while ago and someone here had good success with this product. I copied the link for future use. It's relatively inexpensive.


Caswell Inc. - Black Oxide Kit

 

[Blurred Talon]

Sounds like a good plan!

Another trick that makes welding sheet metal easier, is to have an air compressor with a blower wand. When the metal gets too hot cool it down with some compressed air. It helps a ton!

Awesome, thanks.
Should I clean off the under coating under the patches before welding?

I might even start on the rockers too depending on how bad it is.

 

[Jeff99GS]

Awesome, thanks.
Should I clean off the under coating under the patches before welding?

I might even start on the rockers too depending on how bad it is.

Yeah the best conductivity for welding is bare metal. Also any kind of paint or undercoat on the patch panels can catch on FIRE when you're welding...Not to mention the fumes. That doesn't mean you have to strip the whole piece down to bare metal. Just strip away the edges where you will be welding and about 1-2 inches inward.

I think you should start on the rockers/core support/strut towers since they are actually part of the structural frame of the cars uni-body. That crap in the trunk is mostly cosmetic. I have seen some people cut out the whole spare tire well and Rivet a thin piece of aluminum in as their trunk floor. Save weight and time! Just make sure you cut all the rust away from the trunk, then treat the cut edge with zinc/primer/paint.

 

[Blurred Talon]

First thing I'm going to check is the rockers.
My strut towers were already replaced/repaired.
I'm only spending a day or two at the car and I'd like to have some of the Eastwood stuff before doing the rockers so I can paint the inside of them.

I'm not cutting out the spare tire well, I might still put a spare there and want to keep it for now.

What gauge steel should I be using? 22ga?

 

[Blurred Talon]

Here's something I read on Club DSM Canada: Tech Tips -- Electrolytic Rust Removal

Be good for those small brackets and stuff in the engine bay. Then either paint or powder coat them.

 

[aero_sallee]

Be careful using fasteners of a different metal than what you are bolting together. Add salt water with metals of different electro negativity and you create a battery and severe dissimilar metal corrosion.

 

[Blurred Talon]

I'm not going to be using them for anything crazy, just to clean up the engine bay a bit.

Thanks for the info though!

I just have the 2k chassis black kit so far.


I'll probably use this to convert any rust. Whether it be parts I can't get to by blasting, sanding, wire wheeling, or electrolysis. I might also just wash parts in it to get any flash rust or rust that might be in pits before priming. I'll definitely soak the hell out of the pinch welds with it.

EW Rust Converter One Gallon - Converts Surface to Black Protective Polymeric Coating - Eastwood


Then I might use this to primer.

Rust Encapsulator Paint - Stop Rust and Corrosion


Then I will coat the underbody with this tinted green.

U-Pol Raptor Truck Bed Liner Kit - TP Tools & Equipment


I haven't decided what to do about fasteners. I haven't priced that stuff out, but if it gets too expensive I might use this on the majority. Or have someone else do it.

Electroplating System Tin Zinc - Tin Electroplating System Kit - Zinc Plating Polish

I like the look of that U-Pol stuff, I actually just bought some of there products for doing work on my trunk this weekend.

I think the bed liner would make a great undercoating as you can make it nice and thick when applying it and it's made to stand up to abuse. It should also give a little bit of sound deadening too.

Here's what I'm thinking for the under carriage:
Rust Bullet (supposed to be better and thicker then POR15)
Self Etching Primer
U-POL Raptor Bed Liner

 

[Blurred Talon]

Pulled my carpets out of the car today.
The backing of the carpet and sound deadening on the floor of the driver side was wet, not sure where the water is coming in from, any ideas?

I got most of the sound deadening up on both sides of the floor. I was pleased to finish very little rust of the driver side floor, just some surface that I will knock down, prime and paint. Passenger side floors is clean enough to eat off. I'll sand both tomorrow, prime and then hit them with some Plasti-kote chassis black.

 

[Calan]

Pulled my carpets out of the car today.
The backing of the carpet and sound deadening on the floor of the driver side was wet, not sure where the water is coming in from, any ideas?

A/C condensation pan, heater core, or leaking door seals.

EDIT:

Ehhh... I had a brain fart. I believe only the 3gs have an actual condensation pan with a drain on the A/C evaporator. All the earlier ones just use an enclosed case....I think.

 

[Blurred Talon]

Thanks Calan.

I don't have A/C and it didn't smell like coolant so it's got to be the door seals....joy!

Hope to get at the floors tomorrow, I'll post pictures of whatever work I do when I get back to town.

 

[Blurred Talon]

Took off the rear bumper and found something that made me happy.

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Look closer....

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Yay, a nice dent. Looks like the car was in some sort of fender bender, not a bit deal as it was relatively minor. I'll knock it out with a hammer.

I got the carpets out of the car and all the sound deadening up expect for the stuff on the rear strut towers.

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Found a small hole on the driver's side that I'll have to patch.

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I decided to hit the rust with a wire wheel and paint it for now. Come spring I'll chemically strip it down to bare metal and POR15 the floors.

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Sadly, I didn't get to do anything with the truck floors at all.
I'm gonna use this on the inner frame, found it on Eastwood's website. They really do have a lot of cool stuff when it comes to restoration.
Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle - Undercar Coatings - Undercar & Drivetrain

 

[JuanM]

im really worried about my rocker panels and spare tire well, their badly rusted,i have a 99 gs shell but the rockers have been bondoded, dont know what to do HELP DSM'ers ;-;