turbos

[iwannagofast89]

Would it be possible to take an SRT4 turbo from the exhaust wheel to the compressor housing and put on a 14B exhuast turbine housing

or put a 20g or 18g compressor wheel in a 14b

 

[dsmmike50t]

There's been so many people asking pretty much the same thing this week. Basically dont bother trying to do this becuase its pricey just to machine the housing your looking at 250-300 than you have to find the wheel and pull it apart yourself and add the wheel than pay 50 for balancing or send it to a shop and once again yes it's pricey. Check the classifieds and you'll find yourself a great selection of new and used 20g's for sale, going through all this is not worth the hassle.

 

[NATAS]

SRT-4 turbo is a TD04, so the exhaust wheel is smaller than a 14b. The 14b is a more potent turbo all around.

Also, trying to install a "G" series wheel into a "B" series turbo is extremely expensive to do and it's not worth it for simply a larger compressor wheel. The main reason is because of how different the wheels themselves are. A 14b compressor wheel is perfectly flat on the back and a "G" wheel isn't. That means in order to install the "G" wheel in the center section desugned for a "B" wheel you have to have very expensive precision machine work done.

You can get a good used MHI 16g for $200-$400. To convert a 14b to a 16g you're looking at $150 for the machining (center section and housing), $140 for the wheel, $150 for the rebuild, and $75 for a dynamic balance of your new rotating assembly. Not to mention labor. In other words, it's roughly $600 to have a 14b converted to a 16g and it's $500 to buy a brand new MHI E316G. In other words; it's pointless.

The only real "bastard" or "sleeper" turbo that makes any sense is the 20G compressor wheel stuffed into the 16g, but it's usually only reserved for those who absolutely need a stock appearing turbo that offers performance. There's a reason they cost around $900 from shops when you can get a new 20G for $100 more than that. I had a blown e316g and 20G awhile back and I made a bastard 20g and honestly I didn't feel it pull much harder than the e316g without the 20g compressor wheel.

I'd say forget about all the 1/2 ass ways to screw up a turbo and just grab yourself a used 16g. It'll save you a bunch of headaches and money in the long run.

 

[iwannagofast89]

Ok thanks, but would they both pull the same if same amount of boost is applied?

 

[NATAS]

You obviously have no clue how turbos work which is fine and at least you posted it in the correct forum.

Anyway, 15psi isn't 15psi. A turbo flows a certain cfm at boost levels. It varies greatly from turbo to turbo. The larger the turbo, more cfm. 15psi on say a 50 trim is much more cfm than 15psi on a 14b. You're not going to find a cheap and easy way to make a lot of cfm haha. You're also limited by how much fuel you can deliver which means you have to have a good tuning device etc.

Your best bet is to run a 14b or 16g at close to stock levels until you understand what modifying a car entails. You can't just mix and match turbocharger components either. I suppose if you have a full service turbocharger shop with lathes, CNC machines, balancing machines, etc then you can, but the average guy who doesn't even know what a turbo looks like inside simply cannot. They are incredibly precise and spin over 100,000rpm.

 

[iwannagofast89]

I just dont understand the CFM part I get most everything else.

 

[2gGSX]

CFM is a volume-airflow measurement. Therefore, more CFM (or, more correctly, more lbs/min which is mass-airflow) = you can make more power.

 

[dsm-onster]

SRT-4 turbo is a TD04, so the exhaust wheel is smaller than a 14b. The 14b is a more potent turbo all around.

I've seen several stock srt-4's roll ou 280+ WHP. Not a tdo4 kind of number. . . Or a 14B kind of number.

 

[NATAS]

I've seen several stock srt-4's roll ou 280+ WHP. Not a tdo4 kind of number. . . Or a 14B kind of number.

That's what they are though, that's not an opinion. 280whp is definitely 14b territory and obviously td04 because that's what turbo they have if they're stock. I'd say the little turbo can efficiently run 15-20psi and on the larger displacement SRT-4 motor I'd say 280whp is definitely possible with a td04 turbo.

 

[dsm-onster]

That's what they are though, that's not an opinion. 280whp is definitely 14b territory and obviously td04 because that's what turbo they have if they're stock. I'd say the little turbo can efficiently run 15-20psi and on the larger displacement SRT-4 motor I'd say 280whp is definitely possible with a td04 turbo.

I am just only familiar w/ the td04 13g. No matter what the displacement noone is goingto force out 280whp of airflow through THAT turbine. Does MHI build a larger wheel or housing? A td04 turbine is a td04 turbine, right? I'm not doubting you in particular. Its just odd to me.

A 280whp 14b powered car is rare. It's like a 400hp evo3 16g powered car. It's possible but not likely. 14b w/ a 7cm^2 housing could do it if wrung out. . .

. . . I'm reseaching and it seams to be a td04 16g. . . according to all the forums and what-not. Some refering to it as a TD04LR-16GK. How does a TD04LR stack up to a td04 and td05h? I'd like to see some info. . .

Most SRT-4 owners seam to want the turbine wheel clipped and have the manifold ported for better flow through the turbine inlet. So, this is perhaps the reason why we're seeing decent hp from a td04 turbine out of the srt crowd. . .

 

[NATAS]

Smaller turbine wheel, but bigger compressor wheel. It's like a 13g with a 16g compressor wheel (kind of, best way I could describe though). Definitely not worth trying to swap over onto a Mitsu . Besides, the hotside is part of the manifold.

 

[dsm-onster]

Smaller turbine wheel, but bigger compressor wheel. It's like a 13g with a 16g compressor wheel (kind of, best way I could describe though). Definitely not worth trying to swap over onto a Mitsu . Besides, the hotside is part of the manifold.

Hmmm, i've been hearing that the srt turbo has a 6cm^2 turbine housing. . . which coupled to the td04 tubine is still pitifully small. So almost like a 13g turbine, but w/ a big compressor. . . I agree. It would be hard to source a 6cm^2 or 7cm^2 housing for a td04 and it would be pointless.

However, if already have a 14b and you can get a deal on the 16g (Under 200 dollars), all you would need is a $50-60 used 7cm^2 turbine housing and a $90 balance job. Still nt a very go deal unless you get the srt turbo for little to nothing.

If you want to try this, make sure the wheels turn in the same direction as a traditional 16g. The td05HR turns in the opposite direction. Does the td04LR do the same?