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Turbo went bad--Is this turbo an option ???

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JL's95GSX

10+ Year Contributor
45
0
Jan 14, 2009
Jacksonville, Florida
If you don't know if it will bolt up, then don't even consider it. Stick to the basic replacement ones. And for that, READ.


So when someone is working on there first car they supposed to know everything? If you read my post i say im assuming i need to get a t3/t4 flange.

a forum for help isnt very helpful if ya get railed for asking a question regardless of what it is...
 
So when someone is working on there first car they supposed to know everything? If you read my post i say im assuming i need to get a t3/t4 flange.

a forum for help isnt very helpful if ya get railed for asking a question regardless of what it is...

True, this is a forum for help and information. And since this has been covered before, you can use the search. You could have searched "mitsubishi exhaust housing" and found what the exhaust flange and o2 housings generally look like (exception being the FP series from forced performance). Then you could have searched "T3 exhaust housing" and seen that they are totally different in both aspects.

And the reason I originally said, "If you don't know if it will bolt up, then don't even consider it" is because if you can't tell the difference or don't know the difference, you aren't ready for it. From what I can tell, you don't have any fuel upgrades and nothing to tune with. And you would have to change pretty much all of your current, stock, setup to make it work right. Turbo like that ain't going to like running on a stock sidemount intercooler (hell even the stock turbo is too much for it at times).

So again, stick to the basic bolt-on turbos unless you have enough cash flow to to keep up with your maintenance and do a full T3 conversion with a new intercooler setup. The basic ones for you are (in order of ease of swapping): T-25, T-28, 14b, S/B/Evo 16g. The latter 3 needing a 2g install kit since it is an upward firing turbo unlike the passenger side fire like the stock T-25 and T-28. And, you will not be able to run the 15psi you are at now on anything other then the T-25. Even right now since you blindly turned up the boost, you could be knocking and not know it. The reasoning on the other 4, is that they flow much more air then the T-25. Too much air will equal: Lean A/F ratio (knock comes with it), maxing out your injectors, and maybe even a melted motor from too much knock. Also be aware, that there are OTHER T-25/28 turbo's out there that WILL NOT bolt onto a DSM.

I hope you understand my reasoning now.
 
True, this is a forum for help and information. And since this has been covered before, you can use the search. You could have searched "mitsubishi exhaust housing" and found what the exhaust flange and o2 housings generally look like (exception being the FP series from forced performance). Then you could have searched "T3 exhaust housing" and seen that they are totally different in both aspects.

And the reason I originally said, "If you don't know if it will bolt up, then don't even consider it" is because if you can't tell the difference or don't know the difference, you aren't ready for it. From what I can tell, you don't have any fuel upgrades and nothing to tune with. And you would have to change pretty much all of your current, stock, setup to make it work right. Turbo like that ain't going to like running on a stock sidemount intercooler (hell even the stock turbo is too much for it at times).

So again, stick to the basic bolt-on turbos unless you have enough cash flow to to keep up with your maintenance and do a full T3 conversion with a new intercooler setup. The basic ones for you are (in order of ease of swapping): T-25, T-28, 14b, S/B/Evo 16g. The latter 3 needing a 2g install kit since it is an upward firing turbo unlink the passenger side fire like the stock T-25 and T-28. And, you will not be able to run the 15psi you are at now on anything other then the T-25. Even right now since you blindly turned up the boost, you could be knocking and not know it. The reasoning on the other 4, is that they flow much more air then the T-25. Too much air will equal: Lean A/F ratio (knock comes with it), maxing out your injectors, and maybe even a melted motor from too much knock. Also be aware, that there are OTHER T-25/28 turbo's out there that WILL NOT bolt onto a DSM.

I hope you understand my reasoning now.



Very well put:thumb::thumb:
 
BoostFrenzy i understand where your coming from and thanks alot....

the main reason i was asking is cause he gonna give me that turbo for $60 so its a steal and a half... i was aware that the turbo difference was alot but that turbo has a 8psi wastegate and right now my car sits with no turbo so 8psi out of the t3 will be bad?

and yes im in the process of getting the money/parts for the next step in upgrading and figured that turbo would be good enough just wasnt sure what i had to do as far as flange etc.. just to get my car back running for the time being..



(the car was tuned at a shop-eprom with a chip?)

I dont have much exp with cars a shop does my work but i like to have a basic understanding of what im getting into before some shop rips me off!!

Thanks again "BoostFrenzy"
 
BoostFrenzy i understand where your coming from and thanks alot....

the main reason i was asking is cause he gonna give me that turbo for $60 so its a steal and a half... i was aware that the turbo difference was alot but that turbo has a 8psi wastegate and right now my car sits with no turbo so 8psi out of the t3 will be bad?

and yes im in the process of getting the money/parts for the next step in upgrading and figured that turbo would be good enough just wasnt sure what i had to do as far as flange etc.. just to get my car back running for the time being..



(the car was tuned at a shop-eprom with a chip?)

I dont have much exp with cars a shop does my work but i like to have a basic understanding of what im getting into before some shop rips me off!!

Thanks again "BoostFrenzy"

The problem is, that turbo won't even bolt up to the stock parts on your car. You'd need a new exhaust manifold, new o2 housing, and new oil lines. The turbo may be $60, but you'd be better off just buying a used T-25 through the classifieds.
 
A $60 paperweight is the only thing that turbo would be. Plain and simple the answer is no, it will not work nor would you ever want to make it work. And the "TD05 TURBO CHARGER 16G MITSIUBISHI DSM EVO NEW!! " linked above would likely perform equally as well (as a paperweight). Look into a real turbo not assembled by 8 year old chinese kids. Like the ones BoostFrenzy so kindly laid out for you. :ohdamn:
 
So i guess it might make sense to just get a rebuild kit for my turbo? if its rebuildable..

I looked in the classifieds only a few in there...

Anyone have one for a decent price?
 
T-25s are fairly easy to come by, keep searching the classifieds but if I were you I would look into a 14b or a 16g.

A 14b can be found in good condition for as little as $100 and a 16g isn't a whole lot more than that (used). They will both bolt up to your exhaust manifold and o2 housing. The difference will be in the oil feed, oil drain (you'll need to elongate two hole) and your intercooler piping. The water lines will also need to be adjusted but you can just bend them.

The intercooler piping and the oil feed will be the only things that you need to buy and are fairly easy to come by. You will need a J-pipe and lower intercooler pipe (~$100) and the feed line should cost about $50.

Check out Road///Race Engineering Mitsubishi Eclipse Parts and Performance I ordered my turbo from them and while it did take over a month they have pretty much the best and most easy to understand information on 16g turbos. The issue with my turbo taking so long was the porting which I personally wouldn't do again. They just didn't have time in the shop to get me in.
 
If you bought an exhaust manifold with a t3 flange, then it would fit. It won't with your stock exhaust manifold. A decent turbo, when brand new, will be $450-500. Anything under that is usually chinabay garbage that may work for a few hundred miles but then it'll either fall apart/eat itself/blow it's seals. Go quality or you'll pay for it in the end.
 
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