Turbo Problem second turbo Blown

[BklynsDsmer]

Ok So this is my second turbo i just got t3/t4 hybrid and same problem

After install no boosting just at idle, once the car gets warmed up, it just starts smoking like its blown . so i checked my o2 sensor , it had oil in it and once i took of the o2 down pipe , had oil all over..

any idea why is there oil every where???/

 

[BklynsDsmer]

i figuerd it got messed up with all that pressure ,when i had it on the oil filter housing. ima probably go with turbonetics TO4E-60 / F1-62 .63 A/R

 

[kahl23]

Hey sorry I lost track of this thread. If the wheels are still fine (no contact between the wheels and the compressor cover or turbine housing) a rebuild might be your best bet. I know there are a few places and members on here that do rebuilds, including jusmx141. I don't know if they have gotten any better recently, but Turbonetics does not have a great reputation, especially with these cars. I remember when AGP went from using a Garrett CHRA to a Turbonetics CHRA on their RS49 failure rates went up dramatically. Personally, I would stay away from Turbonetics and look into either a rebuild or, if you want a new turbo, Garrett, Holset, or Borg Warner. What are your power goals? I'm assuming you already have a T3 flanged manifold. As far as the water cooled question go, it depends. For BB turbos a water cooled CHRA is a necessity, but there are many journal bearing turbos that are not water cooled. People have also run Mitsubishi turbos without any water lines with some success. If you don't have any water lines you need to either use a turbo timer religiously or make sure to let your car idle for 30 seconds to a minute before you turn it off, otherwise hot oil will stay in the CHRA with nowhere to go (as the oil pump is off when the engine is off) and the heat buildup will cause the oil to coke in the feed lines, which in turn causes oil starvation and turbo death.

 

[BklynsDsmer]

Hey sorry I lost track of this thread. If the wheels are still fine (no contact between the wheels and the compressor cover or turbine housing) a rebuild might be your best bet. I know there are a few places and members on here that do rebuilds, including jusmx141. I don't know if they have gotten any better recently, but Turbonetics does not have a great reputation, especially with these cars. I remember when AGP went from using a Garrett CHRA to a Turbonetics CHRA on their RS49 failure rates went up dramatically. Personally, I would stay away from Turbonetics and look into either a rebuild or, if you want a new turbo, Garrett, Holset, or Borg Warner. What are your power goals? I'm assuming you already have a T3 flanged manifold. As far as the water cooled question go, it depends. For BB turbos a water cooled CHRA is a necessity, but there are many journal bearing turbos that are not water cooled. People have also run Mitsubishi turbos without any water lines with some success. If you don't have any water lines you need to either use a turbo timer religiously or make sure to let your car idle for 30 seconds to a minute before you turn it off, otherwise hot oil will stay in the CHRA with nowhere to go (as the oil pump is off when the engine is off) and the heat buildup will cause the oil to coke in the feed lines, which in turn causes oil starvation and turbo death.

Power goal . For now trying to be around 450+
I'm thinking Bb herd bettter for spool and less lag.

I do have a t3 mani.
Dint know that about turnbonetics ty for that update.
So garret holset or warner Ima look into it.

I installed a turbo timer its set on a min
n I still have all my water lines in place .



have another question

Should I wait till the motor is broken in before,
Adjusting the cam gears?

n were can i buy a oil sending unit? a good one.

Reason for that is , I went from the oil housing to the cylinder head cause of the oil pressure. Removed the Bs.
So i wana go back to the oil housing since the oil is cleaner

 

[kahl23]

Power goal . For now trying to be around 450+
I'm thinking Bb herd bettter for spool and less lag.
I do have a t3 mani.
Dint know that about turnbonetics ty for that update.
So garret holset or warner Ima look into it.
I installed a turbo timer its set on a min
I still have all my water lines in place .
have another question
Should I wait till the motor is broken in before,
Adjusting the cam gears?
n were can i buy a oil sending unit? a good one.
Reason for that is , I went from the oil housing to the cylinder head cause of the oil pressure. Removed the Bs.
So i wana go back to the oil housing since the oil is cleaner

BB turbos will give you slightly better spool and better transient response than JB turbos, but Holsets are also very fast spooling for their being a JB turbo. I think some options you might want to look into would be (From smaller to larger) Garrett 50 trim, Borg Warner s256, Holset HX-35, Garrett GT3076R/FP GT3076R HTA.
How are you degreeing your cams, do you have the tools needed to degree them so that they match the specs that came with them, are you tuning them on a dyno, or just messing around? Also, what kind of cams are you running? Either way, it doesn't matter, you can degree your cams whenever you want if you're just making them match up with the numbers on their documentation. Otherwise, I would leave them zero'd out until you have access to a dyno or 1/4 mile so that you can see the realtime effects of your changes. Often times cams from companies like HKS or Kelford are pretty on spec out of the box, whereas others may require more adjustment just to get on the correct specs.
I'm not sure what you're asking about the oil sending unit, you mean like a pressure sender for a gauge?