The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

Turbo making whining noise when warm

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

VicBoost

15+ Year Contributor
480
2
Nov 14, 2005
Winnipeg, Manitoba_Canada
Hey guys my turbo makes a whining noise when i let off the throttle, and blueish/white kinda smoke comes out when im at idle. Smoke only happens when car is WARM like about 20min or more of driving it starts to do this. I think seals might be done because the shaftplay isn't that bad, well there is some up and down. Turbo a goner? If there is anyone on here with a t25 or a 16g please hit me up
 
Yes, I had a brain fart....

In/Out shaftplay + whining = BAD

Side to side is a little more tolerable, sorry for the bad scoop.....:thumb:

Whining was solved... was leak on BOV. Check for shaftplay took of intake pipe, wiggled it up and down side to side and in and out. Didn't really notice must shaftplay a little bit up and down. How can you really tell if its little or too much?
 
a good turbo will have zero to little movement, by little i mean 1/16th of an inch or less, and the blades will spin freely. I've heard big boost leaks make the same sound a whining turbo makes as well. In my instance it was a gasket leak from the J-pipe to compressor, and since it made the noise when boosting, i thought it was my turbo as well.....until i did a boost leak test...
 
I would never put that crap in my oil first of you might as well use 50 weight oil as its the same thing all it does is thicken the oil. Second I am a manager at a huge auto parts store we had a lucas display and if you sit there and turn the wheels by HAND it foams like crazy. So just think what its doing in side your motor, plus the stuff is sticky like buble gum done think so then just stick your finger in it and find out. Next white smoke means you have coolant burning not oil. So you may be showing sings of a bad head gasket.


Good thing I don't live near your store, i'd be screwed for sure :notgood:
I recently managed Advance Auto Parts where I live in Metro washington DC area (hella cars and people with $) we can't keep Lucas products on the shelf half the time, ranks right up there with BG which is REALLY hard to get ahold of, for a resonable price anyway.

Lucas products > you, you should know better and research what your talking about friend. There stuff is like a Castrol ad, "liquid engineering" :thumb:

It's also not 50wt, and its barely even oil, its additives that kick ass mainly. DSM valve knock? 1 treatment per instructions per oil change and no more valve noise EVER again, plus nice healthy oil durring changes at 4k miles on synthetic, going on 2 years now in my full 50 trim Gst DD :cool:

That crappy display foams cause its old, exposed to air, and well frankly not under pressure, or heat :tease: Don't shoot yourself in the foot, try it, and talk to the lucas rep for your company, see for your self.


Lucas FTW :rocks:
 
a good turbo will have zero to little movement, by little i mean 1/16th of an inch or less, and the blades will spin freely. I've heard big boost leaks make the same sound a whining turbo makes as well. In my instance it was a gasket leak from the J-pipe to compressor, and since it made the noise when boosting, i thought it was my turbo as well.....until i did a boost leak test...

I think i shal do a boost leak test. Because i think im having a similar problem as you might be something as small as a gasket leak. :thumb:
 
Any tutorials on doing a boost leak test, i can't find on vfaq or on dsmtuners.
 
Any tutorials on doing a boost leak test, i can't find on vfaq or on dsmtuners.

Well here you go.

Type 1 full system check=
Remove the intake piping,

Get the correct size coupler, to connet to your turbo's inlet, or use radiator hose or PVC couplers from homedepot/lowes etc.
Get a PVC end cap that will fit snugly inside your coupler also from hardware store.
Get a tire valve stem, from your autoparts store.

Drill a hole in the PVC end cap to install the valve stem, make sure its a snug hole and pull the vavle stemm in until it locks into place like it would in a wheel.

Put the endcap/vavlestem assembly into your coupler, lock it down with a clamp, almost any descent clamp will do, ex. radiator hose clamp super cheap.

Then clamp the other end of the coupler onto your turbo inlet. add a regular air hose with tire valve fitting and pressurize the system.

Have soapy water in a sprray bottle and spray all couplers, throttle body, injectors, anywhere u suspect leaks. Looks for bubbles ! no not the chimp.....

If you hear hissing inside your valve cover, you may need to rotate your engine to TDC.

That should cover most of it.

Variation is to install the coupler device on the intercooler piping that connects to your pressure side of the turbo (outlet) this would eliminate the ability to tell if the turbo itself is leaking air.....:dsm:

Good luck, boost leak tests are always surprising.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top