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Turbo Maintenance

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djailer

10+ Year Contributor
64
0
Jan 29, 2010
Tacoma, Washington
I searched for something that would answer my question but didn't find much exactly on point. I would like to know if there are any specific things I can/should be checking to be sure my turbo is doing OK. I change the oil every 3-5K using RP 10w-50, clean the K&N filter with the kit per the schedule listed elsewhere here. I am leery of actually disconnecting any turbo parts since I have no idea what I am doing there and wouldn't be able to tell off-hand if something didn't look right anyway. I probably could do the Home Depot Boost leak test but there is no indication at this point that it is necessary.

I am not having any problems and can get up to 15psi indicated on the cheapo pillar gauge. I have no idea what kind of turbo it is, what injectors I might have, except that I am sure it is not stock. As far as I can tell it looks and acts like it was done right. I just want to be sure I can stay ahead of things and do what I can to maintain my beast. Meanwhile I have plenty of routine this-and-that which seems to come with being a DSM owner.
 
Pics. We need pics. Pics of the turbo (hot and cold turbine sides), pics of your injector rail (with the injectors pulled from the engine) will give us a better idea of what your working with.
 
I am not sure I want to take the fuel rail off, or the turbo for that matter. I don't know if I would get them back on without buying new o-rings/gaskets/whatever??? Not having done either before I am a little leery. Actually, I did take the rail off once, but that was part of rebuilding the whole head. This is my dd so I can't afford a day or three to figure out how to get it back on the road -just in case.

As an alternative, I tried some photos today but my cell takes crappy close-ups and - damn it anyway it is too sunny. What a problem to have:cool:

I can't even see my screen. I did get my glasses on and found a name plate.

Garrett
ZL1266J
MR187909
466491-5

I googled those numbers and the Garrett and OEM numbers came back to something close. They all key to a 4G6N engine, which my eclipse is not. I found some other posts here which suggest a T-25 but ??? Either someone installed the wrong one, or they knew what they were doing, or I didn't find the right link yet. I think the ZL part is the serial #. When it worked perfectly I could get a smooth 15 lbs boost at the top of the freeway onramp. Now I get some bumps and stutters between 10-15.
 
You have a T25.

Keep your oil clean, and use an oil with a high level of ZDDP....those are the only two things a turbo needs to survive. Unfortunately the T25 was designed with such a poor thrust system from the factory that there's not much you can do to drastically improve reliability. Keeping the boost level low can help- cranking the boost up on a used T25 with the standard 270* thrust plate will almost guarantee a failure.
 
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