Tuning need some help

[91mitsuman]

Ok I have a 91 eclipse awd with wiseco 8.3:1 bored .20 over pistons eagle h beam rods, arp studs everywhere hks 264/272 cams crower stainless steel valves crower springs and retainers ported head ported intake manifold and ported exaust manifold I am running walbro 255 pump and 680 injectors I am still on the stock 14b turbo. Recently i poped the head gasket it was a MLS when i put the new one in and set all the marks for the timing it felt like it was alot slower and it felt ready to knock at any point i had to shift before 3,000 cause i was scared to continue driving. I have DSMlink and I am wandering if any one is running a similar setup and also had to retard the crank timing. Or If someone has a good tune on link and would like to share it with me that could probaly help me out to please let me know. and i had the block and head both resurfaced so thats why i am thinking i need to retard the timing from original. If anyone can help please tell me what I can do. Thanks to everyone that responds.

 

[FastGS-T]

When you popped the head gasket, did you make sure to clean both the head and block surface close enough that they were mirror images of one another before you put another head gasket on? Do you have any boost leaks?

 

[EclipZ]

make sure the timing marks are still dead on.

 

[91mitsuman]

Ok I did clean up both surfaces the head and the block. I have the New head gasket on and it is not leaking. I have no boost leaks I know my problems is not related to boost. And as i said I lined up all the timing marks originally and the car ran like crap. I had a great tune on link prior to this happening. So i have been moving the crank pulley only with the belt off and the cams lines up i have been turn it in direction of rotation about 3 teeth right now im about to go move it one or two more tonight. When i do this for whatever reason it seems to be helping. All that i am really changing by leaving the cams and turning the crank without the belt on is the cam timing if u think about it. and this is what it helping my car prior to the head gasket popping i this i had the cams retarded some due to my setup. Thanks to the 2 guys that tried helping me. I hope i help somebody out that has a similar problem. If anyone would like to stat their reason why this wouldnt work feel free. Or even better if you do this this will work let me know that too. Thanks to all. I'll let you know when i get it back to normal 2.0L V8 eater that she used to be.

 

[tech27]

hey man probably a real stupid question but are you sure you are lining up the right marks because if I am thinking right you have two sets of marks on each cam just something you might wanna look at g luck

 

[luvmygst]

Ok I did clean up both surfaces the head and the block. I have the New head gasket on and it is not leaking. I have no boost leaks I know my problems is not related to boost. And as i said I lined up all the timing marks originally and the car ran like crap. I had a great tune on link prior to this happening. So i have been moving the crank pulley only with the belt off and the cams lines up i have been turn it in direction of rotation about 3 teeth right now im about to go move it one or two more tonight. When i do this for whatever reason it seems to be helping. All that i am really changing by leaving the cams and turning the crank without the belt on is the cam timing if u think about it. and this is what it helping my car prior to the head gasket popping i this i had the cams retarded some due to my setup. Thanks to the 2 guys that tried helping me. I hope i help somebody out that has a similar problem. If anyone would like to stat their reason why this wouldnt work feel free. Or even better if you do this this will work let me know that too. Thanks to all. I'll let you know when i get it back to normal 2.0L V8 eater that she used to be.

I dont think that moving the timing belt that many teeth is a good idea. To properly adjust cam timing you need to check the piston/valve realationship. The 4g63 is a interference enging meaning that the pistons/valve occupy the same space at different times. Are you readjustin base timing after you do this? The cas is on the end of the cam right? If so then you are changing the spark timing also. Where were the marks when you took it apart? I would go back to original timing and if you need to adjust then get a set of cam gears, the teeth on the belt are to far apart fo fine adjusting. Just my opinion but I would go back and start over and then try adjusting the cam timing, to get it correct you need a degree wheel. Just my .02

 

[91mitsuman]

OK thanks for the advice luvmygst you know your stuff unfortunally so do I my problem is fixed after my adjustment from last night i moved it one tooth from factory in direction of rotation i think that would turn out to actually be retarding the cams. Cause figureing when bringing the cam pulleys closer to the crank you would have to adjust for that on the belt. And dont worry I already have a set of HKS cam gears on my cams. however if you are recommending using those instead of turning the crank may i ask y. is it just because you can get more percise adjustment. Cause i know that each tooth on the crank is about 15 degrees and that is why i was moving down there first which all the does is adjusts your cam timing. I had to get my crank and belt at least close to where it origannly was because the tuning that is on link right now is set up for alot of power. And if im not dead on where i was its easy to tell. Well i got it running again it was one fun week. thanks alot