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Tuning Maft Cant get the car to run right (LONG)

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cmptrphreak

15+ Year Contributor
194
1
Jan 7, 2005
Chicago, Illinois
Alright So I recently picked up a MAFT Setup with a 3 inch gm maf version 2 of the maft. Pretty good deal on it only 150 with everything. So I installed it in the blow through setup. I am using the tmo data logged on my laptop to see whats going on. I also have a/f ratio showing on my apexi turbo timer. I know I dont have a wide band but I'm broke as it is.

My problem is when I try to tune the maft with it setup for 3" maf I'm running lean at 450 injectors. So I set it for 430 and then maxed out all the knobs trying to get it rich. Well I tried switching it to a 3.5 gm maf and it helped. I set it for 450cc injectors and now my Idle in rich as hell I have to lean it out 6 clicks and my mids at lean so I ad 5 clicks. Well When everything is setup right the car runs like shit and I cant get my a/f ratio to go lower than 14.1 in wot.
So I tried throwing the stock 1g maf back on too see what would happen. The a/f ratio was showing non stop rich (20.0) The idle was 14.7 but the rest wasnt. I looked at the o2 trim and it going all the way to 160.
I then read that because I have a 2.5 inch pipe and a 3" gm maf . It wont work good in blow through. So I set it up in draw through. The car was still really lean and only got a tiny bit of knock but ran really really good(pulled really hard. I didn't even have to mess with the translator much but its still lean even if I try to max out the knobs.

Can anybody help me out here Im about ready to throw this MAFT setup in the garbage
Oh yeah and the coolant temp sensor does go above 185 .
 
That doesnt make sense, everyone runs their GM maft setups on a 2.5 intercooler pipe in blow thru.
I dont see how the size of the pipe would affect anything.

I just recently got my maf and translator ( sitting here in my garage )
I am going to install it soon as I get my 2g wiring extension harness from MachV so I can run it to the glove box.
I dont know anything about adjusting the knobs to any particular settings but I do know that Mafs are a b&tch if you are using it as the only tuning device for the car.

The reason it should work for me without a hitch is because I tune my car with a eprom chip, and the chip will already have a fixed timing map/ AFR/ and injector compensation that the maft wont be needed for. Hopefully I will only have to install mines, zero it out, and make small afr adjustments in my chip and be on my way.... If thats the case, I certainly recommend you go that route also, will probably save you so much headaches, especially since a maf is a piggy back form of tuning, like the safc, and it will give you inflated timing values like a safc would when trying to run bigger injectors.
Stuff like that isnt ideal when your trying to run any decent amount of boost on a DD.
 
If you don't have wideband, then don't bother with monitoring AFR; keep an eye on your fuel trims instead. Zero out all of the MAFT settings and check all three fuel trims with your logger and post your findings.

Do you have all of the MAFT wires hooked up?
 
If you don't have wideband, then don't bother with monitoring AFR; keep an eye on your fuel trims instead. Zero out all of the MAFT settings and check all three fuel trims with your logger and post your findings.

Do you have all of the MAFT wires hooked up?

How crucial is it to hook the rpm wire up on the maft?
Ive heard it wasnt needed but not sure.
 
First off that coolant temp is low, typically you should see 200-215*F depending on the weather. That could be effecting your fuel trims.

If you're looking at O2 trim and it is not going rich-lean-rich-lean : Not up to operating causing your ECU to not even look at the O2 sensor.
Your O2 is dead, you will also see the rich/lean signal on O2 voltage.

Third for tuning like stated before, get your low, medium and high fuel trims as close to 100% as possible. Today i got my low tuned in at 100% perfect, just sitting at a stop sign with +17 correction on the SAFCII (just for fyi).

Lastly, turn down the boost, or buy some bigger injectors. You don't want to your INJD% to be over 80% because solenoids need a brief period of time to cool down, you start getting in that 90%+ and they'll work but the question is for how long. And everyone that knows what its like to have an injector's windings short to ground - knows it sucks having a slow car that sounds like an untuned WRX.
 
How crucial is it to hook the rpm wire up on the maft?
Ive heard it wasnt needed but not sure.

If you're going to use the Translator to tune at all then you NEED to connect that wire. Most people are running the Translator just so they can use the GM MAF while they leave the tuning to some other device like DSMLink.
 
I got it now. I left the MAF at 3.5 and set the injectors for 480's . I set the car and it runs really good now. I borrowed my brothers wideband and my a/f at wot is around 11 . I need to get my laptop back so I can double check my trims and knock but man does that feel good. Having the car boost right and pull hard core.
 
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