2G Tubular toe arm with excessive play

[ileagleracing]

I have a set of the tubular rear toe arms on my car and I am seeing excessive play on them.
I am paranoid about wheel bearing failure, more an issue on the front, but with rear axles hard to come by, any play makes me nervous.
I don't think the movement I see is the wheel bearing because I only hear a clicking when I move the wheel in the horizontal axis. No sound or play when I try to move the wheel in the vertical axis.
Is anyone else having this issue?

 

[FIBA M - EC17PSE]

Rodends sre likely worn out. This can happen and on rodends its when ever they feel like it. Some can last months and some last for years even. Before i changed to my nee rear arms i was on the old rodends that were about 6 years old! They looked old but worked well and no play. Heck even the new rodends could go bad faster who knows. Rodends dont have a lifespan exactly.

Best thing to do is jack it up, remove the arm and wobble the ball you will then know if its the rodend of not as you will feel or maybe see movement in the ball. A small bit can make noise and even more can wear it out alot faster.

Another way to check on the car is place your hand on it and wobbke the wheel or have someone wobble. You will feel the knocking if its gone.

 

[ileagleracing]

I actually have 2 pairs of these arms and they all do this, I'll look for some new rod ends and see if that fixes them.

 

[99gst_racer]

How are you measuring play? Have you isolated it to any specific component? Assuming the jam nuts are tight (as well as the inboard and outboard ends), the heims are really the only thing that can give play to the assembly. Make sure you use a heim with a F2 fit. F1 is sloppy loose and F3 is likely too tight for the toe arms.

 

[ileagleracing]

How are you measuring play? Have you isolated it to any specific component? Assuming the jam nuts are tight (as well as the inboard and outboard ends), the heims are really the only thing that can give play to the assembly. Make sure you use a heim with a F2 fit. F1 is sloppy loose and F3 is likely too tight for the toe arms.

The jam nuts are tight, had a problem getting them loose this year to do the alignment. I just checked my 2nd set of arm that is not on a car and there is definitely play along the axis of the hole in the balls.
Do you have a part number or recommendation for an F2 rod end?

 

[99gst_racer]

The jam nuts are tight, had a problem getting them loose this year to do the alignment. I just checked my 2nd set of arm that is not on a car and there is definitely play along the axis of the hole in the balls.
Do you have a part number or recommendation for an F2 rod end?

Glad the jams are staying tight!
Mnay heim options out there. Important attributes: Steel, ~26* of misalignment, F2 fit, teflon-lined.

For a budget heim, check out a QA1 PCMR10 and PCML10. These are generall always F2 fit, but sometimes can be looser (they're sometimes hit or miss). This is a chromoly heim. Only downside is that the black oxide finish will surface rust.

For a higher end heim, check out Aurora VCAM-10 and VCAB-10. Tighter tolerance than QA1. Always is a F2 fit. And the zinc finish resists corrosion better than black oxide.