ViciousLord
20+ Year Contributor
- 636
- 73
- Jul 27, 2005
-
Orlando,
Florida
nothing higher then 4300k... I would go with 4300k for lows, keep the halogens for highs and 3000k for the fogs.
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Retrofit and 4300K! Look at these beam patterns on the projectors and then look at the listing of the rainbows at the top of this thread. Without a projector made for HIDs you are projecting too much light in one area. That's good for a deer spotter lamp, but dangerous when it shines into oncoming traffic's eyes. Real HIDs that come on cars don't blind people because the light is spread out at a wide, consistent angle, not just on one spot. I wouldn't even put HID bulbs in the ebay 2g projectors. It may be expensive to retrofit, but a lawsuit from someone you blinded and caused to crash will cost more, and the fines will too.

I never said they would be dimmer, but all the light is focused in a narrow beam rather than an even wide spread. If someone's eyes get caught in that beam they will be blinded because HID bulbs output much more light than a halogen and you are focusing it into a spot. Real HID projectors utilize the bulb's super-extra-brightness by spreading the light out. Ever look at LED specs? The narrower the beam pattern the more light output there is. The die is still putting out the same lumens, but the candlepower is different. Lumens is how much light something can produce regardless of area (basically at the source.) Candlepower takes area of the beam into account because of the inverse square law. Ever wonder how deer spotters have such a higher candlepower than so many other things despite not using some super insane bulbs? Because the beam is narrow. I get pissed when I come onto someone who just slapped HID bulbs in their non-HID housings as it blinds me and I already have glare problems from my contacts and astigmatism.
I have 6000K in the lows and 3000K the fogs, I really like this setup.
What amperage is your fuse, and which fuse are you talking about, and how many watts are these HIDs? I wanted to get 75-watt bulbs for my fogs a while back but I did the math and it was past the relay's and fuse's rating so I went with 65-watt Silverstars, which were right on the borderline. I feel comfortable with 55-watt HIDs in there now because the standard H3 bulb is 55 watts.
A 10-amp fuse is going to JUST handle a 55-watt HID kit. I think the 1g is a 15-watt fuse so I don't worry. The current on starting a cold bulb is going to be higher than a constant warmed up power draw so that may be what is blowing the fuse. It could benefit from a large value capacitor in front of each ballast to reduce the initial shock on the fuse.

Actually 55W will make the bulb seem like a higher K as it washes out some of the color.
At 55W my 5000K bulbs are fairly white with a hint of blue, at 75W they are pure white.

isnt that what i said?
the higher the K the more blue it is, the lower the K the less blue it is... applying more power causes the color to wash out, giving the appearance of a lower K.
